Chestnut

TV Stand

Recommended Posts

9 minutes ago, C Shaffer said:

Not so. Easy to find examples of guys doing this on video. Bulk marine epoxy is a big buy in, but you have lots left that lasts a long time. 

Cost per volume of adhesive. One of those 1 oz tubes of epoxy is what $6 (an 8oz kit is $14 locally so that's around $2) , 1oz of super glue is in the $8 range, 1 oz of my west systems epoxy is $1.

 

4 minutes ago, Elroy Skimms said:

I find it interesting how different people use their shop time. For some, it's their version of a zen rock garden, it brings peace. Others have to have music playing. I've even seen people with a TV in their shop. If I had a TV and table saw running at the same time, I'd be losing appendages left and right. I can tolerate music playing if I'm doing a repetitive task like sanding that requires no real precision. But if I am measuring, marking, and cutting; I prefer the sound of silence. I make far fewer mistakes without the distractions. And zen? God no. I find that if my head isn't clear, I need to stay away from the shop. Different strokes for different folks.

The piece looks fantastic, I'm a big fan.

-E

Thanks, I'm really happy with how everything is coming together.

It is interesting how people use their shop time. Sitting and staring at a screen is what i do all day at work. When i get home i want to have nothing to do with a backlight display device. My phone goes in the bedroom so people can't call me and the table saw comes to life. I tihnk part of it for me is knowing that saws are really dangerous so when i use them it forces anything else from my mind and makes me concentrate on the cut I'm making.

Personally i HATE TV which is very ironic in this thread. My "TV" is used more for guests then anything, i need this stand for a place to put my audio equipment. I bought this TV 4 months ago and it's the first I've ever owned. I have it plugged into my computer and i use it as a display device 99.99% of the time. I'll never have a tv in my shop.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Cost per volume of adhesive. One of those 1 oz tubes of epoxy is what $6 (an 8oz kit is $14 locally so that's around $2) , 1oz of super glue is in the $8 range, 1 oz of my west systems epoxy is $1.

That was my point. Not sure how to make a logical flow of your responses. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Back to our regularly scheduled programing.

Did some flattening with my router sled.

14753662_10101145168066149_2894395488778

Had some small pieces of ash from the Basement bar build so i figured i'd mill them up as well. I think i'm going to use those to make a small table and gift it to someone for christmas. We shall see.

14590062_10101145168091099_7359962576504

I kept getting asked how studying was going this weekend and i always replied with "Great I've been in my studying room all day!". Little did they know that i was doing woodworking in my studying room. I'm using my dead flat assembly table for studying so one had to displace the other. The sawdust makes the room smell good so i left it in there.

14608804_10101145168126029_3267489145212

It's in the clamps!!! took me a while to hog off the material with my 735 the blades started to get dull towards the end. The Powertec blades i bought ended up working pretty well i can't tell a difference between then and the OEM. When i use up them all I'm going to buy a 15HH or a bryd head.

14695577_10101145168165949_1650096962505

I never know do people prefer the comment under the picture or on top? I've always done on top so you read and then look at the picture but I never know which is better.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll type an update later, have a question for those smarter then me.

Want to do an under bevel on the top i have made but don't trust myself to do a 1/2" by 1/2" bevel by hand or with a router and don't have enough room in my shop to do it with the table saw. Would i be able to hang the edge of a track saw track over the edge of the board and use that to cur the bevel all the way around?

14956455_10101158417808559_6964966802430

I don't have the saw at 45 degrees because it'd fall over. Above is what i was thinking. I'd be doing this on all 4 sides.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Chestnut said:

I'll type an update later, have a question for those smarter then me.

Want to do an under bevel on the top i have made but don't trust myself to do a 1/2" by 1/2" bevel by hand or with a router and don't have enough room in my shop to do it with the table saw. Would i be able to hang the edge of a track saw track over the edge of the board and use that to cur the bevel all the way around?

14956455_10101158417808559_6964966802430

I don't have the saw at 45 degrees because it'd fall over. Above is what i was thinking. I'd be doing this on all 4 sides.

I would clamp the track down for that operation for sure, but yeah I would think it would work fine...I'd cut he end-grain first too.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've done bevels with the track saw a number of times.  Just did it a couple weeks ago in fact.  Works great.  No different than 90* cuts, really.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Draw careful layout lines and practice on scrap ! It's doable even with a skilsaw but you have to pay very close attention .

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys I'll get this top cut today and post an update. Going to measure 5 times 2 different ways to make sure that i don't mess anything up. Excited for this project to be done.

@wtnhighlander I thought about using the router but I almost always burn the crap out of cherry with my chamfer bit so i thought I'd consider a new option.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Drew, you could just draw some layout lines and use a handplane. Thats a pretty easy way to go. Atleast you will avoid the possibility of an oops moment.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, shaneymack said:

Drew, you could just draw some layout lines and use a handplane. Thats a pretty easy way to go. Atleast you will avoid the possibility of an oops moment.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

Yeah but ....

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, pkinneb said:

I agree on the top sometimes less is more...BTW how did you come out on the exam, sorry if you posted it somewhere and I missed it?

I won't find out the results until the middle ish of December. How they grade it and weight it is one of the worlds greatest secrets but they take a lot of time to make sure that everything is done fairly. I think more people know the contents of area 51.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Chestnut said:

I won't find out the results until the middle ish of December. How they grade it and weight it is one of the worlds greatest secrets but they take a lot of time to make sure that everything is done fairly. I think more people know the contents of area 51.

LOL sounds like my CFP test took 8 weeks to find out but that was 20 years ago...Same kind of drill 3 sections over two days. Surprised technology hasn't sped things up but I suppose if there were essay questions like the CFP that would be hard. Good luck none the less and in the mean time I am enjoying this build :) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Drawers are finished i just have 2 guide rails to glue up and then hours upon hours of sanding.

I used my block plane for the bottoms because the shooter was WAY to big to balance reliably on the thin boards.

15095701_10101167376914439_1929545544571

I have since purchased a couple of those wooden screw clamps so i don't have to use the quickgrip, it makes things a lot nicer for edge jointing. Dovetails fit far too snugly so i had to take a chisel to them and carefully remove some material.

15027937_10101167377009249_6683431679473

Worked

15037228_10101167377099069_1822091592840

Drawer faces were Not even close to parallel with the front of the case. I kinda freaked about it for all of 5 min trying to figure out ways to fix it or leave it. I decided to fix it. I struck a line all the way around and then just took hand planes to the face and planed to the line. Worked out wonderfully and now i know what to do if this ever happens again.

15027527_10101167377243779_2974412077563

The veritas shooter to the rescue again. It just works so darn well. The low angle made easy work of the alternating grain direction and the curl. I was really worried that it was going to be tear out city with my #4. I don't know why people say the shooter is a 1 trick pony I've found 3 tricks it does really well already.

14915382_10101167377777709_1453401585656

15078729_10101167377363539_7826735402668

And back in the stand all flushed up. Now i need to glue on guides stops and sand and sand and sand, see ya in 3 days after I'm done sanding and my hands are numb.

14980587_10101167377503259_7288927187472

Here is a picture before i corrected the drawer fronts. If you have hardware suggestions or drawer pull suggestions shoot them out. I was thinking either purchased hardware something mission style or going with a wooden pull made from something. I kind of want to do something exotic like Macassar Ebony, Rosewood, Becote, Coco, possibly kingwood.

14705768_10101167377163939_3685278356448

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent work, Drew! I know there's the temptation to make pulls that are full of action and grain movement like something such as coco or boco would add, but you have a lot going on already. I'm not sure, of course, but maybe something handmade but understated for the pulls would work.

With the usual disclaimers, yada, yada, yada...it's your project. try out  a few options on scrap, handmade is better, be sure to sign it, ...:)

I think something smooth, curvy, and slender would work...but it doesn't need a new species.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You're using the shooter without a shooting board, as if it were a low angle jack? What angle is the bevel honed to (I'm assuming it's a bevel up plane, correct me if not)? If it's just 25 I would expect massive tearout....

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is looking really nice! What grit to you plan ti sand to? I've heard sanding to 600 is good for controlling blotch on cherry. Of course, you don't want to completely eliminate "blotch", or all that lovely figure would go to waste!

As for the pulls, I like your idea of a dark brown wood. I favor cocobolo, as it has a reddish cast that seems like a good compliment to the cherry.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is looking great, Drew. Really nice work so far. Glad you are loving that plane, it's a sweet tool !

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.