Eric. Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Just now, Chestnut said: Went to the lumber yard today to inquire about some cherry 3/4" ply for the component shelf. The ply they have is pretty nice but i almost pissed myself laughing when he told me the price. They wanted $65 for a 4x4 sheet! $65! They're right on the money. We sell full sheets for $129. It's true that buying hardwood can actually be cheaper, especially when it's available for $2.90/bf. It always makes sense to buy hardwood if hardwood makes sense. Sometimes you just need ply though, depending on the situation. Walnut is $140 but with the cost of walnut hardwood it's closer to a wash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted October 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Just now, Eric. said: They're right on the money. We sell full sheets for $129. It's true that buying hardwood can actually be cheaper, especially when it's available for $2.90/bf. It always makes sense to buy hardwood if hardwood makes sense. Sometimes you just need ply though, depending on the situation. Walnut is $140 but with the cost of hardwood it's closer to a wash. I suppose if you want it for stability as well. The stuff was 7-9 plys with 2 of them being thick MDF. For walnut i can see it being worth while just not having to deal with the potential for as much waste. A sheet of ply isn't going to have checking and won't have rough edges like solid wood will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 16 hours ago, Chestnut said: I suppose if you want it for stability as well. The stuff was 7-9 plys with 2 of them being thick MDF. For walnut i can see it being worth while just not having to deal with the potential for as much waste. A sheet of ply isn't going to have checking and won't have rough edges like solid wood will. That's called Goldply here which is more expensive but has a smooth void-free surface for under the hardwood veneer face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted October 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 I stole some time away from studying for the PE to work on the shelf and stand in my shop staring at wood for a while. It just felt good to stare at something that wasn't a 3" thick book of equations. Ran out a bunch of dominos for the panel. Used 4mm because edge grain strength isn't crucial and this shelf isn't going to support much weight to boot. In da clamps. While i was wood staring i found the wood that i wanted to use from the front arch and drawers. I decided against the designed drawers and am instead going with a completely flat face and will do half blind dovetails to join the front to the sides. What's that hiding over there? That auto on feature and adjustable suction is something that i never expected to be so awesome. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chestnut Posted October 21, 2016 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 Got a little bit more work done today. I needed some shop time to clear the mind. The panel glued up wonderful i thought that I'd still use the biscuit jointer every once and a while but that's probably never going to happen now. The domino is just that good but of coarse you all already know that. I flattened the panel with my new to me #4 which did quick work of making the panel perfectly flat and ready for sanding. A couple knots were giving me some tearout issues so i used the block plane to clean those up. I cut the mortises for the dominoes on the front apron (?) as well as the back cross brace. I still need to cut mortises in the top and the sides for the top. I couldn't help but put a dry assembly together and take a picture. I did some clean up on the sides with the #4 and it makes the figure almost slap you in the face. This wood is great, I'm going to have to go back to my guy and see if there is any more and buy him out. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 Looking sharp! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 Nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 nice progress Chestnut, thats some beautiful cherry and will only get better with age. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 Looking really good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 Looking good so far, Chestnut. That is some great looking Cherry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 Like everyone else has said that's some awesome cherry! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted October 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 Thanks guys for the comments. I'm excited at how well this is coming together. There are a couple mistakes but nothing that wasn't fixable. I got the slabs out of their storage area and cut 1 edge to get a book match. I thought i was going to have to use 3 pieces to get the width i wanted but it looks like I'll be able to get it out of 2. I'll take better pictures of them after i flatten them with the router sled. I'm sure you can see that this was a crotch (upside down) and that there is a crack forming where the branches split. The crack doesn't go all the way through one but does on the other. Would the butterfly inlays or bow ties help keep it from spreading? I'll will epoxy it as well. Does any one have a good resource for learning how to inlay those? I've wanted to try inlay for a while now and I've done a couple new techniques on this project might as well add more right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 Yes, butterflies and epoxy will limit the crack from getting worse. Practice on scrap before you tackle those crotches. Cut out some butterflies and play with the layout to see what looks good to you. I think at least 2 per crack. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Eric. Posted October 22, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 That's looking good, Nut. Nice looking cherry, good figure. For the dutchman, just look up how to do a freehand inlay with a router. You'll wanna go a bit deeper than a standard ornamental inlay, but the concept is the same. Marc has an old video on the free site. Piece o' cake. Are you planning to use those slabs live edge for the top of this cabinet? (Please say no.) 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 27 minutes ago, Eric. said: (Please say no.) Ditto. It doesn't fit the style of the base... But, it's your piece. Don't say we didn't warn you! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted October 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 6 minutes ago, Eric. said: That's looking good, Nut. Nice looking cherry, good figure. For the dutchman, just look up how to do a freehand inlay with a router. You'll wanna go a bit deeper than a standard ornamental inlay, but the concept is the same. Marc has an old video on the free site. Piece o' cake. Are you planning to use those slabs live edge for the top of this cabinet? (Please say no.) No and not even because you asked so nicely . Slabs and live edge my have their place but this is NOT that place. 3 minutes ago, Llama said: It doesn't fit the style of the base... Sweet I've watched that before and that is what got me interested in inlay to begin with. I didn't know if these were done the same way as regular inlay. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 You are spared. For now find something else for that slab! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 5 hours ago, Llama said: You are spared. For now find something else for that slab! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I think his intent is to use the slab without the live edge? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Llama Posted October 22, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 1 minute ago, K Cooper said: I think his intent is to use the slab without the live edge? I'd still say it's a bad idea from a design point of view. The grain in the top is to busy for that base. If someone wanted to use that top, the best thing would be a bar top or use some of those metal legs. And I hate those metal legs. Perhaps an ebonized base would be a better fit. The top is visually jarring, so having it on a base that does not have much detail and major contrast (maple and black) would be best. I wouldn't use the slab for a top at all unless a client was hell bent on having it in their home. Even then, I would recommend against it. It's something that could be used for a sub-top... Kind of like Cremona did on his free site/Guild build. It comes down to choosing a focal point. Choose wisely! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pondhockey Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 Probably off topic, but would a cyanoacrylate (instant/super glue) work as well to fill these cracks as epoxy? I have a somewhat similar (slab with cracks) project coming up, so I'll be interested to know how your approach works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 Filling cracks is probably not a good application for CA glue. Maybe the really thick kind could work, but the expense would be high, and it might set too quickly to avoid bubbles and gaps in the fill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted October 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 8 hours ago, Pondhockey said: Probably off topic, but would a cyanoacrylate (instant/super glue) work as well to fill these cracks as epoxy? I have a somewhat similar (slab with cracks) project coming up, so I'll be interested to know how your approach works. It takes a lot of epoxy to fill the cracks, it might be possible but it would be far from economical i think. Also tinting the CA glue would be difficult and i'm not sure how large voids filled with it would look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 Just as there are multiple types of other glues, epoxy and CA glue are offered in many types. Generally speaking, when priced by volume, CA glue is one of the most expensive glues out there. It has minimal gap-filling performance and I would leave that job to a high-solids PVA product designed for the task or to a general use epoxy if the repair (or rather the gap being repaired) will be seen. Depending on the size, location or use case, filling gaps in hardwoods generally calls for some elasticity. If the "fix" is non-structural a quicker cure epoxy is suitable. Speaking as a generalization, the faster the cure, the weaker the bond for curing-types (as opposed to drying-types) of adhesives. For colored gap filling in hardwoods a relatively weaker bond (still hell-a-strong) is fine so I take advantage of the faster cure. Not only can I continue working sooner but, any tenancy to 'go where I don't want it' is reduced. All that aside, I am lovin' the look of this thing so far. Keep on keepin' on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 3 hours ago, Chestnut said: It takes a lot of epoxy to fill the cracks, it might be possible but it would be far from economical i think. Also tinting the CA glue would be difficult and i'm not sure how large voids filled with it would look. Not so. Easy to find examples of guys doing this on video. Bulk marine epoxy is a big buy in, but you have lots left that lasts a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elroy Skimms Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 On 10/21/2016 at 5:26 PM, Chestnut said: Got a little bit more work done today. I needed some shop time to clear the mind. I find it interesting how different people use their shop time. For some, it's their version of a zen rock garden, it brings peace. Others have to have music playing. I've even seen people with a TV in their shop. If I had a TV and table saw running at the same time, I'd be losing appendages left and right. I can tolerate music playing if I'm doing a repetitive task like sanding that requires no real precision. But if I am measuring, marking, and cutting; I prefer the sound of silence. I make far fewer mistakes without the distractions. And zen? God no. I find that if my head isn't clear, I need to stay away from the shop. Different strokes for different folks. The piece looks fantastic, I'm a big fan. -E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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