lewisc Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 At the 5min mark, this bloke routs a side handle in a cutting board. Is it a good (safe) way to do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 thats the way i do mine, take small cuts to prevent burning the wood and you will be just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 Looks safe to me. References off the fence moves across bit in right direction. Maybe he could have pivoted the board onto the bit instead of just lowering it, but wouldn't say just lowering it is a safety hazard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 when you get that one mastered, try one of there, Google bent lamination cutting board 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted August 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 7 minutes ago, treeslayer said: when you get that one mastered, try one of there, Google bent lamination cutting board Normally I put rubber feet on the bottom which removes the need for a handle. I'm making them for someone who requested handles on the side. I've seen those before. It's somewhere on my list of things to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 I put Handles on the end with a cove bit. Done the same way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 Perfectly safe. I put my handles on the bottom with a straight bit but that's a cool alternative. Stolen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwk5017 Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 All of mine are 1.5+ thick, which is plenty of space to register a router with edge guide. Clamp the board vertically in my large end vise and quickly route the handle. I can see using his method if you board is very thin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 I do it similarly but, with a fluting bit so the board lays on the table. These ends happen to be curved so I use a curved sac fence but, the same idea applies. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwk5017 Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 That is the way to do it on the router table, for sure. MTM uses a shaper in a similar fashion for his handles. I always come back to, "how does that russian cutting board guy do it?", if i ever have a cutting board question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 31 minutes ago, gee-dub said: These ends happen to be curved so I use a curved sac fence but, the same idea applies nice work @gee-dub, consider that method stolen, i've been doing mine vertical with a sac fence and a cove bit, yours looks better and more in control, and the inlay gives a nice effect when you router it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted August 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 27 minutes ago, Pwk5017 said: That is the way to do it on the router table, for sure. MTM uses a shaper in a similar fashion for his handles. I always come back to, "how does that russian cutting board guy do it?", if i ever have a cutting board question. Yeah, MTM is the master. Ive tried the router on the edge of the board but I wasn't happy with the result. Probably a combo of a cheap bit and me. I've got 6 boards to cut handles in so having a setup to batch them out consistently is the plan. @gee-dub Have you got a link to the bit you use? I think I'll prefer your setup to standing the board on end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 Doing the cut in 2 or 3 increasing depth passes will reduce any burning or slight tearing of the end grain. With the vertical approach you just raise the bit up a little each pass. With the horizontal approach do a little practice cutting and pencil mark the final fence location then move it back and make the initial shallower cuts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddM Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 I personally like to have the handles on the bottom so they are easier to pick up. I clamp the board standing on edge to my table saw fence and very slowly raise the dado blade up to cut out the handle. Count your turns as you raise the blade and do the same on both sides. This is fast and easy. You can kinda see the side profile on this picture of a finished board: http://imgur.com/LdyY3qp 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 1 minute ago, ToddM said: I personally like to have the handles on the bottom so they are easier to pick up. I clamp the board standing on edge to my table saw fence and very slowly raise the dado blade up to cut out the handle. Count your turns as you raise the blade and do the same on both sides. This is fast and easy. You can kinda see the side profile on this picture of a finished board: http://imgur.com/LdyY3qp That's how I do mine too but if you put a finger groove in the center you now have a two-sided cutting board rather than a single-sided. I don't cut meat on mine so cross-contamination isn't an issue for me, but some people might like to be able to cut on both sides (not that you couldn't cut on both sides either way but it would feel goofy to me...OCD). I think it makes more sense to do it that way and I'll probably go centered for my next batch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddM Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 6 minutes ago, Eric. said: That's how I do mine too but if you put a finger groove in the center you now have a two-sided cutting board rather than a single-sided. I don't cut meat on mine so cross-contamination isn't an issue for me, but some people might like to be able to cut on both sides (not that you couldn't cut on both sides either way but it would feel goofy to me...OCD). I think it makes more sense to do it that way and I'll probably go centered for my next batch. Yeah that is a good consideration. I would use the normal router method when making double sided boards. I only ever use 1 side and I also put rubber feet on the bottom. I also dislike juice grooves from my own cooking experience. It's just another place to trap food but I have made boards that are both double sided and have juice grooves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 The only part that I thought was unsafe was when he crosscut the boards using his fence as a stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 3 hours ago, treeslayer said: when you get that one mastered, try one of there, Google bent lamination cutting board Dave, did you make this or is it a pic from Google? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 I usually put the handle at the bottom with a cove bit. Another way to do it would be to use a rabbet or slot cutting bit if you wanted to do it with the board horizontal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post treeslayer Posted August 17, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 46 minutes ago, K Cooper said: Dave, did you make this or is it a pic from Google? Coop, you know better than that, here's what i've been up to lately, sorry for the poor quality pictures 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 Dang bud, you've got that lamination down!!! Great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 The crosscutting the dowels using the fence seemed pretty risky to me. Especially since the length didn't need to be exact. I use the miter gauge and a pencil mark on the table for cuts like that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 His right hand is pushing inappropriately during most of his miter gauge cross cuts. You see the board bind and wobble. This is not a huge deal maybe as the cuts are finished in the downward moving front half of the blade. But, poor practice habits usually transition into more dangerous scenarios. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 I'm with Steve regarding the dowel cuts. Why were they so long, anyway? I see no purpose, other than decoration. A square of plywood, riding edge-on against the fence, makes a good 'miter gauge' substitute for that cut. As for the handle cuts, I've done them the same way, but with a board clamped across the table, appropriately positioned, as additional insurance against levering away from the fence. I hate making on-edge cuts without extra support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbutcher74 Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 As long as we are critiquing this guys methods, he jointed the edge of the board first and then the face. I usually do it the other way around. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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