Chestnut

Outdoor Rocker

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That’s a neat project nut. You say you printed the plans, where did you get them. You’re not just going to rely on glue for the joints shown, are you? 

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Like it, looking good. I'm really interested in hearing about a good finish for white oak that is exposed to the weather. Plan to do some white oak outdoor pieces with the white oak I had milled this Dec.

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In my experience, the longest lasting finish for white oak in an outdoor project is dry air and shade. 

For real, some seem to have great success with CPES and a spar varnish, but I think a simple oil that is easy to renew might be a better choice.

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10 hours ago, K Cooper said:

That’s a neat project nut. You say you printed the plans, where did you get them. You’re not just going to rely on glue for the joints shown, are you? 

:lol: I guess that image got culled. I am using stacked dominoes to connect the joints so 2 on top of each other because the material is 1 3/8" wide. I also forgot to take a picture but i put a spline on the joint from the arm rest to the front leg. I figured that joint would get a lot of stress.

So i took 2 images i found online and pulled them into cad. I then just traced the image and made a couple adjustments.

1439032946_ACADCHAIR.thumb.jpg.5dc9f87d95eb22cc5489f11c79d87659.jpg

9 hours ago, Brendon_t said:

Man this thing is cool. Super jealous you can print at that scale.  They cool really comfortable.

So I guess i did print at 11x17 but i did the poster thing in Adobe from PDF. It takes a large format PDF and breaks it up to print to scale across multiple sheets. Then i just had to cut at tape together. I could print full scale from out plotter that has 48" wide paper but i kind use enough company resources and i know that paper is expensive.

Poster.jpg.39168a75b3457cbb2330a6d48aaa795d.jpg

If you can print to 11x17 you can change the page size in page setup and it makes it easier to stitch together. Also if you are doing this plan ahead and put grid lines on your project in your CAD software. If you don't have adobe reader i suppose you could do this in the cad software it's just a bit more labor intensive.

10 hours ago, Bmac said:

Like it, looking good. I'm really interested in hearing about a good finish for white oak that is exposed to the weather. Plan to do some white oak outdoor pieces with the white oak I had milled this Dec.

Yeah i figured someone would know. I know as Ross said above CPES but I've also heard horror stories of film finishes getting moldy underneath with white oak pores. I was hoping for like a wax oil finish something that could just have additional coats wiped on. I know I'm going to be responsible for maintaining the finish on these chairs so to keep time on the lake up and time refinishing down i was hoping for something easy.

 

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Chairs looking great. Nice clean joints on all those angles.

You have to print to a Ricoh C6502? Sorry about that.

Just kidding, im a Ricoh technician.

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22 minutes ago, woodbutcher said:

Chairs looking great. Nice clean joints on all those angles.

You have to print to a Ricoh C6502? Sorry about that.

Just kidding, im a Ricoh technician.

Thanks

Of the numerous printers I've used it's actually the best. My first company had a Keocerya and it broke once a month. Company after that had an HP and that was awful, then they got a Lanier and that was broken more often than it was working.

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29 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Thanks

Of the numerous printers I've used it's actually the best. My first company had a Keocerya and it broke once a month. Company after that had an HP and that was awful, then they got a Lanier and that was broken more often than it was working.

Yeah they are good runners for the most part. Im glad youve had good luck with it. 

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10 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Now this is a woodworkers rocking chair. I'm tempted to tell my parents that it wasn't possible and i had to scrap the project.

8675432134.thumb.jpg.e857b657539839e3dbcb4c089b7cd9c3.jpg

This guy is comfortable!!!!!

This thing is already too cool.

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So i spent about 3 hours of my morning researching endlessly about outdoor finishes and i can tell you that everything offered is shrouded in smoke and mirrors it's difficult to make heads or tails of anything.

A while back while on this path i determined that an oil finish was the best route. Things might go grey but tha's life in a nutshell. With an oil it's easy to apply just wipe on a new coat in the spring ... easy. These chairs won't see a ton of sunlight so i'm not too worried about them. They also have a high chance of only being outside on the weekends.

I narrowed it down to a handful of products.

https://osmo-store.com/product/uv-protection-oil/

Osmo is incredibly hard to find to buy. I'd have to go online and all the dealers i can find with a quick search seem quite sketchy..... They list a mildewcide but don't say what it is.

https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/outdoor-defense/

Their marketing and reviews seem like this is a good product. it's basically pur tung oil with pine oil and zinc. Zinc is a well known material they claim resists the growth of mold and mildew.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DeckWise-Ipe-Oil-250-VOC-Hardwood-Finish-1-gal-Natural-Wood-Semi-Transparent-Exterior-Waterproofing-Deck-Fence-and-Siding-Stain-IpeOil-HW-Fin-1GAL/207135599

This is a finish that i found from a decking website i stumbled on a while back. They also highly rated the product below.

https://www.amazon.com/DEFY-Gallon-Semi-Transparent-Stain-Hardwoods/dp/B009F13ZDY?th=1

They are less transparent and have coloring that will offer more UV protection i probably don't need, they also come in gallon sizes which i'll use probably 8 fl oz of so the waste will be high. Not sure what their shelf life would be of any of these products.

Deck website for reference. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/

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I have no recent experience with outdoor finishes, but a couple of lifetimes ago I used to be a sailor, so my advice is consult with the sailing community.  

There used to be a "Consumer Reports" type publication that did product reviews, and there still is:  https://www.practical-sailor.com

If it were me I would not care a fig for the degree of ambering.  It's outdoor furniture where comfort as well as durable construction and finish are going to be the factors appreciated.  

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Yeah i agree with the the boat community although their approach is a bit different than the way i'd like to approach it. Theirs is coat it so thick that nothing will ever penetrate. trouble with those finishes is they require stripping back to bare wood to refinish which is something i don't want to do at all. Hence oil finishes.

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The longest lasting outdoor finish I've had any experience with is made by Sikkens.  If anything, I'd pick the high end of whatever they're offering now.

Maybe this one:  https://www.westmarine.com/buy/sikkens--cetol-marine-finish-natural-teak-color-quart--P004_128_002_501?pCode=8666026&mrkgcl=481&mrkgadid=3202694880&cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-GSC>NonB>Product%20Type-_-8666026&product_id=8666026&adpos=1o5&creative=108421551244&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4fHkBRDcARIsACV58_FpG4z_yc7ig3TtUi760RGT98J-Up_bFHFlnm0Q-UJfzrrBCZLsceoaAkC5EALw_wcB

I built our house, and barn in 1980 with White Oak siding.  It starts to get black from mildew around every ten years, and then I pressure wash it, with bleach to start with.  After the bleach, and pressure washing, it looks like it just came from the sawmill again.  Not a good surface to sit on though.

I used to be a pretty big time sailor too.  I like wood, and I like sailboats, but I like to go sailing, rather than work on the boat.  The right amount of wood on any sailboat for me has been none.  I remember, back in the mid 1970's I was near the lake sanding the rudder, and daggerboard on my Laser, getting ready to put another coat of varnish on,  in preparation for getting ready to go to the Laser Midwinters in Florida in a few days.  It was blowing about 25, with big waves, and whitecaps out on the lake.  I said screw the varnishing wood, I'm going sailing, called a friend of mine who was a Laser dealer, and told him to bring me a fiberglass rudder blade, and daggerboard to the Midwinters.  He brought them, and I wetsanded them in the hotel bathtub the night before the first races started.

I ended up saving an older couples' lives that day on the lake, who capsized a boat on a day that they had no business being out there on, but that's another story-ended up trashing a new sail, and having to race with an old, blown out one.

 

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25 minutes ago, Ronn W said:

I like the look of plugs - maybe even a contrasting wood.  Lookin' good, Drew.

Is walnut outdoor durable? I have quite a few scraps that would look ok maybe with the white oak. My other outdoor durable wood is Jatoba and i'm not sure i'd like the red. I might just do white oak...

Found the winner. Some Ipe i forgot about. Looks awesome next to the white oak less contrast more compliment.

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Skipping to the end to just say...you're a machine Drew.  Not counting the few pros here, you must have the most production of anyone on the forum.

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Yes.

Pilot hole and counter sink for plugs, use SS screws and plug, though I wouldn't go for the contrasting wood in this case.  Just my opinion.  

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