Popular Post Chestnut Posted March 27, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 I'm working on this the same time I'm working on the veneer project. For some reason i like to make things difficult on myself. My mom a while back sent me a picture of a chair she wanted me to make for their lake cabin. So i took it and made some plans for it. Instead of just cutting out the rockers i thought it would be better to do bent lamination. The rockers turned out well. I used epoxy for the adhesive as i have before. There are a couple places where the glue line is obvious but not many are going to notice. Now for the fun part. All the odd angles. These should help. I got the 2 incra gauges for $200 and was going to sell one to basically make one really cheap but i never got around to it. Then this came up and now i can have 3 store angles which is really useful for the middle section where both angles are different and i have to attach the rear leg at the same time. I printed the plans for the side of the chair full size and attached them to some ply. I just worked off of this with some heavy bevel gauge use. things worked out pretty well. Clamping was tricky but i figured out if i kept the off cuts i could use CA glue and activator to attach them back on for clamping points and then just knock them off after. Because it's end grain the CA glue doesn't stick very well and it doesn't leave any wood behind and doens't damage the parts. Now i have to figure out how to attach the rocker part. I was thinking screws counter sunk a good ways and then plugged with a face grain plug. This is white oak. Does any one have a good finish for these as they will stay out side for some periods and see weather? 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 That’s a neat project nut. You say you printed the plans, where did you get them. You’re not just going to rely on glue for the joints shown, are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmac Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 Like it, looking good. I'm really interested in hearing about a good finish for white oak that is exposed to the weather. Plan to do some white oak outdoor pieces with the white oak I had milled this Dec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 Man this thing is cool. Super jealous you can print at that scale. They cool really comfortable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 In my experience, the longest lasting finish for white oak in an outdoor project is dry air and shade. For real, some seem to have great success with CPES and a spar varnish, but I think a simple oil that is easy to renew might be a better choice. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 10 hours ago, K Cooper said: That’s a neat project nut. You say you printed the plans, where did you get them. You’re not just going to rely on glue for the joints shown, are you? I guess that image got culled. I am using stacked dominoes to connect the joints so 2 on top of each other because the material is 1 3/8" wide. I also forgot to take a picture but i put a spline on the joint from the arm rest to the front leg. I figured that joint would get a lot of stress. So i took 2 images i found online and pulled them into cad. I then just traced the image and made a couple adjustments. 9 hours ago, Brendon_t said: Man this thing is cool. Super jealous you can print at that scale. They cool really comfortable. So I guess i did print at 11x17 but i did the poster thing in Adobe from PDF. It takes a large format PDF and breaks it up to print to scale across multiple sheets. Then i just had to cut at tape together. I could print full scale from out plotter that has 48" wide paper but i kind use enough company resources and i know that paper is expensive. If you can print to 11x17 you can change the page size in page setup and it makes it easier to stitch together. Also if you are doing this plan ahead and put grid lines on your project in your CAD software. If you don't have adobe reader i suppose you could do this in the cad software it's just a bit more labor intensive. 10 hours ago, Bmac said: Like it, looking good. I'm really interested in hearing about a good finish for white oak that is exposed to the weather. Plan to do some white oak outdoor pieces with the white oak I had milled this Dec. Yeah i figured someone would know. I know as Ross said above CPES but I've also heard horror stories of film finishes getting moldy underneath with white oak pores. I was hoping for like a wax oil finish something that could just have additional coats wiped on. I know I'm going to be responsible for maintaining the finish on these chairs so to keep time on the lake up and time refinishing down i was hoping for something easy. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbutcher Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 Chairs looking great. Nice clean joints on all those angles. You have to print to a Ricoh C6502? Sorry about that. Just kidding, im a Ricoh technician. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 22 minutes ago, woodbutcher said: Chairs looking great. Nice clean joints on all those angles. You have to print to a Ricoh C6502? Sorry about that. Just kidding, im a Ricoh technician. Thanks Of the numerous printers I've used it's actually the best. My first company had a Keocerya and it broke once a month. Company after that had an HP and that was awful, then they got a Lanier and that was broken more often than it was working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbutcher Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 29 minutes ago, Chestnut said: Thanks Of the numerous printers I've used it's actually the best. My first company had a Keocerya and it broke once a month. Company after that had an HP and that was awful, then they got a Lanier and that was broken more often than it was working. Yeah they are good runners for the most part. Im glad youve had good luck with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chestnut Posted March 27, 2019 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 20 hours ago, K Cooper said: That’s a neat project nut. You say you printed the plans, where did you get them. You’re not just going to rely on glue for the joints shown, are you? Double mortise. Leg spline. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chestnut Posted March 28, 2019 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 Now this is a woodworkers rocking chair. I'm tempted to tell my parents that it wasn't possible and i had to scrap the project. This guy is comfortable!!!!! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Coop Posted March 28, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 The clamps may see some seasonal rust . Add a cushion for Mom. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted March 28, 2019 Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 10 hours ago, Chestnut said: Now this is a woodworkers rocking chair. I'm tempted to tell my parents that it wasn't possible and i had to scrap the project. This guy is comfortable!!!!! This thing is already too cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 So i spent about 3 hours of my morning researching endlessly about outdoor finishes and i can tell you that everything offered is shrouded in smoke and mirrors it's difficult to make heads or tails of anything. A while back while on this path i determined that an oil finish was the best route. Things might go grey but tha's life in a nutshell. With an oil it's easy to apply just wipe on a new coat in the spring ... easy. These chairs won't see a ton of sunlight so i'm not too worried about them. They also have a high chance of only being outside on the weekends. I narrowed it down to a handful of products. https://osmo-store.com/product/uv-protection-oil/ Osmo is incredibly hard to find to buy. I'd have to go online and all the dealers i can find with a quick search seem quite sketchy..... They list a mildewcide but don't say what it is. https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/outdoor-defense/ Their marketing and reviews seem like this is a good product. it's basically pur tung oil with pine oil and zinc. Zinc is a well known material they claim resists the growth of mold and mildew. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DeckWise-Ipe-Oil-250-VOC-Hardwood-Finish-1-gal-Natural-Wood-Semi-Transparent-Exterior-Waterproofing-Deck-Fence-and-Siding-Stain-IpeOil-HW-Fin-1GAL/207135599 This is a finish that i found from a decking website i stumbled on a while back. They also highly rated the product below. https://www.amazon.com/DEFY-Gallon-Semi-Transparent-Stain-Hardwoods/dp/B009F13ZDY?th=1 They are less transparent and have coloring that will offer more UV protection i probably don't need, they also come in gallon sizes which i'll use probably 8 fl oz of so the waste will be high. Not sure what their shelf life would be of any of these products. Deck website for reference. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted March 28, 2019 Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 I have no recent experience with outdoor finishes, but a couple of lifetimes ago I used to be a sailor, so my advice is consult with the sailing community. There used to be a "Consumer Reports" type publication that did product reviews, and there still is: https://www.practical-sailor.com If it were me I would not care a fig for the degree of ambering. It's outdoor furniture where comfort as well as durable construction and finish are going to be the factors appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 Yeah i agree with the the boat community although their approach is a bit different than the way i'd like to approach it. Theirs is coat it so thick that nothing will ever penetrate. trouble with those finishes is they require stripping back to bare wood to refinish which is something i don't want to do at all. Hence oil finishes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted March 28, 2019 Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 The longest lasting outdoor finish I've had any experience with is made by Sikkens. If anything, I'd pick the high end of whatever they're offering now. Maybe this one: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/sikkens--cetol-marine-finish-natural-teak-color-quart--P004_128_002_501?pCode=8666026&mrkgcl=481&mrkgadid=3202694880&cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-GSC>NonB>Product%20Type-_-8666026&product_id=8666026&adpos=1o5&creative=108421551244&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4fHkBRDcARIsACV58_FpG4z_yc7ig3TtUi760RGT98J-Up_bFHFlnm0Q-UJfzrrBCZLsceoaAkC5EALw_wcB I built our house, and barn in 1980 with White Oak siding. It starts to get black from mildew around every ten years, and then I pressure wash it, with bleach to start with. After the bleach, and pressure washing, it looks like it just came from the sawmill again. Not a good surface to sit on though. I used to be a pretty big time sailor too. I like wood, and I like sailboats, but I like to go sailing, rather than work on the boat. The right amount of wood on any sailboat for me has been none. I remember, back in the mid 1970's I was near the lake sanding the rudder, and daggerboard on my Laser, getting ready to put another coat of varnish on, in preparation for getting ready to go to the Laser Midwinters in Florida in a few days. It was blowing about 25, with big waves, and whitecaps out on the lake. I said screw the varnishing wood, I'm going sailing, called a friend of mine who was a Laser dealer, and told him to bring me a fiberglass rudder blade, and daggerboard to the Midwinters. He brought them, and I wetsanded them in the hotel bathtub the night before the first races started. I ended up saving an older couples' lives that day on the lake, who capsized a boat on a day that they had no business being out there on, but that's another story-ended up trashing a new sail, and having to race with an old, blown out one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chestnut Posted March 29, 2019 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 SO i have the seat boards cut and am gearing up to work on the backrest. Not sure how to attach the boards. I can't get a clamp on it because of the angles so i was thinking of attaching them down with some stainless 18 ga brads. I'm not sure if they will go through 7/8" white oak and into more white oak below. Should i do counter sunk screws and plug them? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 I like the look of plugs - maybe even a contrasting wood. Lookin' good, Drew. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 25 minutes ago, Ronn W said: I like the look of plugs - maybe even a contrasting wood. Lookin' good, Drew. Is walnut outdoor durable? I have quite a few scraps that would look ok maybe with the white oak. My other outdoor durable wood is Jatoba and i'm not sure i'd like the red. I might just do white oak... Found the winner. Some Ipe i forgot about. Looks awesome next to the white oak less contrast more compliment. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 Skipping to the end to just say...you're a machine Drew. Not counting the few pros here, you must have the most production of anyone on the forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdie Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 Yes. Pilot hole and counter sink for plugs, use SS screws and plug, though I wouldn't go for the contrasting wood in this case. Just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chestnut Posted March 29, 2019 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 33 minutes ago, Byrdie said: Yes. Pilot hole and counter sink for plugs, use SS screws and plug, though I wouldn't go for the contrasting wood in this case. Just my opinion. The Ipe top plug is only a bit darker. This picture makes it look a bit more than it really is. I like it because instead of trying to hid the plug it calls it out but not in a hugely contrasted way. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 30, 2019 Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 I'm with you on the top one, looks nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted March 30, 2019 Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 Agreed on the ipe as well as SS screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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