Popular Post rodger. Posted March 26, 2020 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 26, 2020 Feather-board saved me from a pretty nasty kickback tonight. Was re-sawing a freshly jointed piece of ash, and "wham", the work piece tried to raise up and fly back at me. Luckily, I was using a feather-board (and standing off to the left). No damage done. USE YOUR FEATHER-BOARDS! . 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 26, 2020 Report Share Posted March 26, 2020 Wait we're not supposed to use our tablesaw to shoot misbehaving pieces of wood at our shop walls? I'm going to troll and say this is a job for a band saw and using the proper tool is also a good safety measure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted March 26, 2020 Report Share Posted March 26, 2020 1 hour ago, Chestnut said: I'm going to troll and say this is a job for a band saw and using the proper tool is also a good safety measure. All trolling aside, it looks to be some sort of molding and may require a finer cut at this point then one gets from the bandsaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 26, 2020 Report Share Posted March 26, 2020 First off glad your ok! Now re the ongoing conversation I too would have used a bandsaw and cleaned it up (if needed) with a hand plane or drum sander. I can get a pretty good cut off my bandsaw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 26, 2020 Report Share Posted March 26, 2020 I forget that people use cuts strait off the table saw. Either cutting tool I'd have cleaned up the edge with a plane as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted March 26, 2020 Report Share Posted March 26, 2020 What caused it to raise up? Where you standing to the side not correctly supporting the wood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted March 26, 2020 Report Share Posted March 26, 2020 I don't know if @Roger was using one, but I don't believe a push stick that just makes contact with the stock at the pack should ever be used because they allow the front end to rise up, leading to kickback. Maybe there are cases where one is called for, but I can't think of one. It surprises me that the saw manufacturers are still supplying them with a new saw, cause I think they're just dangerous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 27, 2020 Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 1 hour ago, drzaius said: I don't know if @Roger was using one, but I don't believe a push stick that just makes contact with the stock at the pack should ever be used because they allow the front end to rise up, leading to kickback. Maybe there are cases where one is called for, but I can't think of one. It surprises me that the saw manufacturers are still supplying them with a new saw, cause I think they're just dangerous. I questioned that as well and totally agree. The little wishbone push stick is just asking for the front of the board to rise. Not saying that he was using one but if he was, the rounded top just makes it that much worse. I agree @rodger., glad you are ok and yep, the featherboard went a long way in keeping you safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post rodger. Posted March 27, 2020 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 Yes, was certainly using a push stick, and a sacrificial one at that. This saw is a 3HP sawstop, and is tuned immaculately. I occasionally re-saw smaller pieces on the table saw by cutting about half way through, flipping, cutting about another half way through, and then finish with a hand saw to release the off cut. A bit of hand plane work and the piece is ready to go. This is a piece of molding, so I wanted a finer cut that I could have received at the band saw (plus I don't currently have a band saw). Due to the profile, flipping it over was not really an option. The piece was perfectly square, so this should have been an easy and safe operation. Some type of stress in the wood must have been released and cause it to pinch. It happened, of course, in a flash, so the lifting of the work piece could have been due to contact with the feather board while it was kicking back. But, of course, knowing the dangers of the tool is part of what experience provides. Knowing this operation could be more risky than others, I used a trusted feather-board and was aware of the potential for kickback. There is no 100% safe operation, so being prepared is our best defense. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted March 27, 2020 Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 Was your splitter/guard mounted? I'm wondering if the pawls on the splitter would have been enough (or done anything) with this narrow stock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted March 27, 2020 Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 With really narrow stock, the guard & pawls get in the way of a push block. I clamp on a low profile fence extension so I can use the push block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted March 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 riving knife in use. piece was too narrow for the pawls, so the feather board was in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Stig Guldbaek Posted March 28, 2020 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 Hi This is my first post here. Have been following the forum for years though. Hopefully my input can be helpful. I am teaching cabinetmakers and joiners in a danish school. The following is what I teach my students. What causes kickback when ripping thin stock is if the piece get pinched between the back of the blade and the fence. To avoid this, the solution is to pull back the fence so it only overlaps the sawblade by one fourth of the length of the sawblade: If the fence can´t be pulled back I would use a sacrificial fence. The shown one is not really a dedicated sacrificial fence but it would work: When doing the cutting use a push stick to hold the piece against the fence just in front of the blade: Or you could use a featherboard: By the way I agree that in most cases the bandsaw is a better choice for this operation. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted March 28, 2020 Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 You can't move the fence back on a Sawstop.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 @Stig Guldbaek, that is an excellent explanation. Welcome to the forum! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chip Sawdust Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 I have a sacrificial fence for use normally with my dado set but this is a great, simple idea that never crossed my mind. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 Welcome, great ideas, glad to have your input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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