gee-dub Posted April 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2021 13 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: @gee-dub, I wish I had thought of it...I have a 1960's era electrician's drill I could loan you. The gearbox is folded back on the motor so that with a typical spade or short auger bit, it still fits between studs so the holes are square-through. Weighs about 40#, though! Appreciate the offer. Since that's just shy of 1/4 of my body weight I'm probably better off that you didn't think on it earlier Getting waylaid today. Tomorrow I will add some blocking for the drywall installation or run the wires for the 3-way and 4-way switching for the lights. I have so much to do I can just go where the mood takes me for a while yet. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted April 23, 2021 Report Share Posted April 23, 2021 I can see where this could become overwhelming. Beer and burgers will get you some help. Just name the date! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted April 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 More wiring. Blocking for drywall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted April 24, 2021 Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 What is blocking for drywall? Where the studs don’t align? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted April 24, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 4 hours ago, Coop said: What is blocking for drywall? Where the studs don’t align? Some corner constructions and gable walls are such that the top plate or vertical offers no lip to attach the drywall to. Blocking is just 2X stock that is added to provide the lip for sheet rock fastening. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted April 30, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted April 30, 2021 Lots more stuff done that really doesn't show; more wires run, ceiling boxes for machine drops installed and so forth. I really like how the sawed control joints clean up with the sealer/filler in place. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted April 30, 2021 Report Share Posted April 30, 2021 I’ve never understood how those cuts work. Do they take the place of expansion boards commonly seen in driveways? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted April 30, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted April 30, 2021 2 hours ago, Coop said: I’ve never understood how those cuts work. Do they take the place of expansion boards commonly seen in driveways? Yes but heavy machines roll over them much nicer than trowel joints. They are about an 1/8” wide and 1” deep. The sealant keeps crud from compacting in them over time and fouling their function. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chestnut Posted April 30, 2021 Popular Post Report Share Posted April 30, 2021 8 hours ago, Coop said: I’ve never understood how those cuts work. Do they take the place of expansion boards commonly seen in driveways? Kind of not really expansion boards are still a different thing entirely and are there to allow some expansion and contraction of the concrete with changing temperatures. Like Gee-dub mentioned above they more take the place of the trowel joints. How they work is they provide the concrete slab a place to crack. ALL concrete cracks it's just a fact of the material so in order to control how those cracks progress trowel joints or saw joints are provided to force the concrete to crack where we want it. The sawn joints are sealed so when they do crack water and debris doesn't fill in the crack. In northern areas keeping the water out of the cracks will stop freeze thaw action from breaking off the concrete edges. It also prevents water from getting to the rebar causing it to rust. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted May 2, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted May 2, 2021 HVAC disconnect, line-set box and service outlet in place. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chet Posted May 2, 2021 Popular Post Report Share Posted May 2, 2021 17 hours ago, gee-dub said: HVAC disconnect, line-set box and service outlet in place. And a shadow of someone holding a phone. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted May 8, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted May 8, 2021 More items checked off the list. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Mark J Posted May 8, 2021 Popular Post Report Share Posted May 8, 2021 Seeing your wire labeling reminds me, I took a label maker to all of my shop outlets identifying the circuit number and amperage for each line. Helps me balance electric loads and I don't have to go through any trial and error to find the breaker. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 9, 2021 Report Share Posted May 9, 2021 There is a great deal of truth in that sign, Mark. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted May 9, 2021 Report Share Posted May 9, 2021 I saw it in a shop window and had to have it. I refer to it frequently. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted May 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2021 Good call on the face plate labels. I did this in my previous shop and will follow through on this one as well. My labeling convention runs like '2, 32.3' which means the outlet is on service panel 2, breaker 32 and that this is the third outlet in the path on that breaker. I only daisy chain general use outlets that are used incidentally. Most outlets are assigned and just have something like '2, 35' as the outlet has a dedicated breaker or '1, 10-12' for a 240v position that uses breaker positions 10 and 12. I run GFCI's per code on the walls. Where outlets are ceiling mounted (or otherwise difficult to reach) I run GFCI breakers for ease of access if required. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted May 9, 2021 Report Share Posted May 9, 2021 I've heard that GFCI circuits don't work & play well with power tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted May 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2021 As a contrast I can’t recall ever tripping one except in the house. I have heard that variable frequency drives and some variable motor controls caused them to trip in error. The easy fix there is to pass-through a non-protected outlet before starting the GFCI line. You can then plug your problematic tool into the non-GFCI protected outlet ahead of the protected section. Apparently this doesn’t apply to corded variable speed tools because I run corded drill motors and variable speed routers on GFCI circuit’s all the time without incident (???). Old wives tale maybe? Erroneous reports from poorly wired shops? I’m no electrician but as I say, I have never tripped a GFCI in the shop. I do follow the NEC religiously. Maybe there’s actually a purpose to that book other than to just bug the pee-wad out of me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted May 11, 2021 Report Share Posted May 11, 2021 @gee-dub, what are you planning to do for lighting in your new shop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted May 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2021 1 hour ago, Mark J said: @gee-dub, what are you planning to do for lighting in your new shop? Three zones. Outlets in the ceiling for hanging 'shop lites'. Current units are LED, 4000k. They will hang just below DC ducting to avoid shadows. This is a change from years of 6500k T-8 lamps that served me well. The upside to the 6500k is the bright white light, minimal eye fatigue, great visibility. The downside is that I had to keep a variety of other lamps available to get a better color read when selecting material and finishing. When it was time for new lamps I bought a range of CRI and Lumen value lamps to test. The 4000k seems to be the best balance for me. Four rows of four fixtures in the main machine and assembly areas. Another 3 or 4 in the parts / finishing area. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted May 14, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted May 14, 2021 Knocked some more item off the list. Gable vents. Platforms at the top of the attic ladder. Data and speaker cables. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradpotts Posted May 14, 2021 Report Share Posted May 14, 2021 looking good! I wish I would have thought about attic access when I was laying out my shop. Where the ladder comes down is right over my table saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 15, 2021 Report Share Posted May 15, 2021 How fussy was it to fish cable through that ribbed conduit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 15, 2021 Report Share Posted May 15, 2021 10 hours ago, bradpotts said: looking good! I wish I would have thought about attic access when I was laying out my shop. Where the ladder comes down is right over my table saw. I wish I had had the forethought to put a ladder in mine when I built it. Back then I was a whole lot smarter and younger and a 6’ ladder would allow me to pull myself thru the opening between the joist. And also back then, all I was storing up there were 4 or 5 bags of duck decoys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted May 15, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted May 15, 2021 Got the two 3/4 height wall up. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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