What's on the bench.


Chestnut
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  • 1 month later...

I've been doing some prototyping for an upcoming project.

These are my idea for the base for some end tables. The back is where the clamp is. I'm going to have a single brace from the cross piece to the front to support a box for the end table. I'm just checking the design for strength and flex before doing the real deal. My intent is to go with a modern design that appears to defy gravity.

In my testing it's clear the rear cross brace will need to be a halflap. Currently it's M&T but there is too much twist.

1205211042-01.thumb.jpeg.79687b24892553c99ddf752333022c65.jpeg

I also will add some sculpting and some tapers to these parts to add some flare.

1205211041-01.thumb.jpeg.aab986edbecf35e20fb184f3955e31e3.jpeg

I've also been working on some shop upgrades which I'll post about later.

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On 12/6/2021 at 5:55 AM, Chestnut said:

In my testing it's clear the rear cross brace will need to be a halflap. Currently it's M&T but there is too much twist.

In you test piece did you use dominos or traditional M&T.   I am not saying anything against the domino but I would think that a beefy sized Mortise and tenon wouldn't have much twist.  I know you said you were going for a modern look but what about through tenons with wedges to get them nice and tight.

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So is the table top and/or drawer section going to cantilever out over the angled leg braces?  Like Mark, I'm struggling to picture this without a sketch.

If it IS a centilever design, I did something similar in this desk thread.  Might not work for you, but my solution was M&T rails inside the upper case,  essentially mirroring the feet. The rails attach to the case walls with splines, glue, and screws. Not pretty, but all out of sight.

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Kind of cantilevered kind of not. There will be a central brace, circled in red below, that extends from where the clamp is towards the front of the case. This is a terrible 1 min drawing showing the side. Keep in mind the brace going up from the rear will be in the center and there will be only 1.

Untitled.thumb.jpg.c3cd5fc9739315af7bc6714f59732cbf.jpg

I"m still working on proportions and dimensions this looks REALLY ugly to me but it gets the idea across.

1 hour ago, Chet said:

In you test piece did you use dominos or traditional M&T.   I am not saying anything against the domino but I would think that a beefy sized Mortise and tenon wouldn't have much twist.  I know you said you were going for a modern look but what about through tenons with wedges to get them nice and tight.

I did a double 8mm x 1.375" x 2.5" floating M&T So 1.25" in to both the leg and the brace. So a pretty beefy tenon setup given the legs were 1.5"x1.375". I left maybe 1/16" between the edge of the tenon and the edge of the leg to maximize size. There was still some slight twisting. I need to install the brace circled in red above and fasten everything to a case stand in. The circled pieces would need to change length in order to twist, this should increases stiffness significantly.

I used the domino mortise machine but didn't use dominoes, i almost always use home made stock these days. This system is confusing to discuss when you don't use their tenon stock so I try and avoid mentioning i used the machine and have just defaulted to saying floating M&T. I could try integral tenon setup and go with a really thick tenon but I'm worried about it splitting the leg hence double floating.

1 hour ago, wtnhighlander said:

If it IS a centilever design, I did something similar in this desk thread.  Might not work for you, but my solution was M&T rails inside the upper case,  essentially mirroring the feet. The rails attach to the case walls with splines, glue, and screws. Not pretty, but all out of sight.

I like your design a lot, but the case will be open to the front, like a box on it's side and hiding the additional width like you did won't work as nicely for me. I also plan for the base to be 2.5"-3" narrower than the upper case, which would make the situation that much worse.

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Nothing is on the bench while I am trying to rearrange my shop. I also picked up some pvc to hard duct my dust collection lines, but I should have known that 4” dust collection fittings aren’t compatible with 4” pvc. Why are dust collection sizes so stupid? Or is it me that is stupid? How does everyone do this?

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10 hours ago, JohnG said:

Why are dust collection sizes so stupid? Or is it me that is stupid? How does everyone do this?

No idea why but yes they are. I do everything with SDR35 PVC up to the blast gate. Most blast gates fit nicely  inside the SDR35 pipe and can act as your transition to flex hose.

SDR35 =/= Sch 40.

That said I believe there are Sch 40 adapters to flex hose. Woodcraft and rockier sell them i believe.

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On 12/7/2021 at 4:17 PM, BonPacific said:

Nothing! For the first time in... well...

Anyways. Got the little shop cleaned up finally, in preparation for our upcoming move (and my new shop). Trying to keep my excitement tempered, but it's not really working.

Good luck with the move.  I'm in the recovery process from mine

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16 hours ago, BonPacific said:

Nothing! For the first time in... well...

Anyways. Got the little shop cleaned up finally, in preparation for our upcoming move (and my new shop). Trying to keep my excitement tempered, but it's not really working.

Good to see you hanging around again.

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  • 3 weeks later...

@Coop, I think white oak's weather resistance is somewhat dependant on the average regional humidity. My house has WRC siding that is in fine shape after 30 years, but a white oak bench I built for Cody and the neighbor kids to rest on between backyard basketball games fell apart after two years in the weather, warped until the joinery broke. Another member here ( @curlyoak?) has mentioned great difficulties with mold forming on a WO door in the even more humid climate of Florida. It may resist rot and bugs, but humidity makes it move a lot, and it stains from mold very easily.

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