What's on the bench.

[legenddc]

On 5/17/2022 at 10:16 PM, Coop said:

1/16 is not going to give you much of a profile. You can almost get that with a sanding block and 150 sandpaper. 

I realized that after I posted it. I think my 1/8" roundover test on a scrap of pine made it look too much like a 2x4. Will test it on a different scrap or just break the edges with some sandpaper.

[Chestnut]

My chainsaw is on my bench. I was trying for a good 30 min last night to sharpen the chain but it just wouldn't budge on the bar. Turns out i got the chain brake backwards and had the brake engaged. The chain still doesn't freewheel as easily as it should though. I think I have some burrs on the drives that need to be removed.

11 hours ago, legenddc said:

What size rounder do you all use to break the edges on pieces? I have a 1/8" but wondering if 1/16" wouldn't be better?

I always think less is more. 1/8" can be way too much for me most times. I"ll sometimes do 1/16" by hand but it's more consistent to do it with a bit.

 

[Ronn W]

I consider an edge break or easing to mean, "Get rid of the sharp edge".  Sandpaper only.

 

[drzaius]

A quick pass with a block plane is what I usually do. By the time finish sanding is done, it's slightly softened. I like the look of a very slight chamfer.

[BonPacific]

After spending all day moving rubber mats and shelving around the shop I wanted a quick win. So I finally got around to replacing my old carvers mallet.

Simple chunk of white oak, finished in the Miyagi Method.

[Dave H]

wax on wax off..... nice looking mallet

[JohnG]

Not on the bench but near it-

 

Shouldn’t have moved this in alone, but I did anyway. Pretty pleased with the general build quality. Need to run to the store for new plugs and outlets before I can fire it up, I’m down to all mismatches in my bin. 

[Chestnut]

8 hours ago, JohnG said:

 

Shouldn’t have moved this in alone, but I did anyway. Pretty pleased with the general build quality. Need to run to the store for new plugs and outlets before I can fire it up, I’m down to all mismatches in my bin. 

That's awesome! I'm excited to hear how that guy functions.

I have made it back to my shop and the exciting project on my bench.

It's a birthday gift to hold all of the playbills that Megan has gotten with plenty of room to add more. Her birthday was may 13, do maybe i should just change it to an early Christmas gift.

[Mark J]

Is that a dust collector? or a room air cleaner? 

[JohnG]

It’s a dust collector. The form factor is perfect for my shop layout. It will go behind the door on the left side of my last pic. It fits perfectly between the exterior wall and my lathe setup, and fits under my clamps on the wall. The port is also in the ideal location.

Will make a separate thread about it when I get it up and running. 

[BonPacific]

That's dang cool John. Excited to hear how you like it.

[JohnG]

Oh boy, I’m excited! I couldn’t actually wait so I hooked it up with wire nuts (safety patrol, look away). Significant improvement over my HF DC. 

More to come.

[Chestnut]

Ever have the problem where you make a project and on paper it sounds perfect on paper, then you make it and it starts to get daunting in size?

The shadow/display box I'm making just hit difficulty level 10 because i neglected to check glass pricing and availability and it's in the unruly large size... I"ll probably need to use 1/4" glass because the opening is 44" x 40". I was going to have the glass slide out to allow access but now I'm wondering if that is really feasible...

Now my question is do I continue or modify my design?

[Tom King]

Might be better to hinge a door.

[JohnG]

Can you do a hinged door with multiple panes of glass? Might be able to get away with 1/8” if they are smaller panes. 

[treeslayer]

30 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

I"ll probably need to use 1/4" glass because the opening is 44" x 40"

yeah hinge a door or make 2 doors and use glass door hinges and magnetic catches, or 1 piece and hinge it on the top, i did a big one many years ago, it sat on the floor for a guys toy tractor collection, used 1/4" for the front and sides and tempered on the top with a mirrored back that slid it tracks for access, this going on a wall Drew ?

[wtnhighlander]

That is exactly why I switched to acrylic for the knife display I posted earlier. Don't regret it, so far. 3/16" might be a bit floppy over that large a span, though. 1/4" should be enough, and probably cheaper than glass.

[Mark J]

Another factor it is important to consider is weight.  A large panel of 1/4" glass will weigh a good bit more than acrylic or plexiglass.  

[Chestnut]

15 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

That is exactly why I switched to acrylic for the knife display I posted earlier. Don't regret it, so far. 3/16" might be a bit floppy over that large a span, though. 1/4" should be enough, and probably cheaper than glass.

2 hours ago, Mark J said:

Another factor it is important to consider is weight.  A large panel of 1/4" glass will weigh a good bit more than acrylic or plexiglass.  

Acrylic is actually more expensive than glass in both of my estimates, for 2 reasons. To prevent it from being floppy the thickness would likely need to be 3/8" , I also am requiring UV protection so the items within will not fade as quickly over time. That in conjunction with the scratching makes it less desirable. Weight if looking at in 1/4" glass would be 36 lbs, so not awful. Acrylic would be near 30 lbs so not a huge difference.

18 hours ago, Tom King said:

Might be better to hinge a door.

18 hours ago, JohnG said:

Can you do a hinged door with multiple panes of glass? Might be able to get away with 1/8” if they are smaller panes. 

So my thought with the door would be to have two doors with the frame around the outside. Where the doors met I wouldn't want a stile, so each door would be a 3 sided frame essentially. The reason for this is because I don't want anything running vertical to disrupt the view. This is because of my poor planning. Horizontal separation would be easier.

18 hours ago, treeslayer said:

yeah hinge a door or make 2 doors and use glass door hinges and magnetic catches, or 1 piece and hinge it on the top, i did a big one many years ago, it sat on the floor for a guys toy tractor collection, used 1/4" for the front and sides and tempered on the top with a mirrored back that slid it tracks for access, this going on a wall Drew ?

1 piece and hang on top is a good idea. This is in the running for consideration. My main concern over swinging the glass is that if it's swung a bit too aggressively (Megan LOVES slamming doors, not in anger she must just love the bang or something) will the glass be able to withstand the slamming with out breaking. The benefit to the top hinge is that I could divide the glass into 4 parts allowing for 1/8" glass and increasing strength.

 

Long winded post that resulted in all of you leading me to an AH-HA! moment, so thanks it's much appreciated. There are 4 displace bays that run horizontally and are roughly 9.5" tall and 44" wide. I could easily installed separators between each bay that would result in a 9" x 44" piece of glass the would slide out the side. I could have it slide out each site for complete access to the entire bay. There are some construction details that I'll need to figure out but that shouldn't be too difficult. I'll post more details as i get it figured out.

[Robby W]

Another possibility is tempered glass. Very rigid and strong. That is what shower doors are made of. I have a shower door that is 36" wide and 72" tall - one sheet of 1/8" there's glass. 

[Chestnut]

17 hours ago, Robby W said:

Another possibility is tempered glass. Very rigid and strong. That is what shower doors are made of. I have a shower door that is 36" wide and 72" tall - one sheet of 1/8" there's glass. 

That is an option though I'm not sure if the ven diagram of tempered glass and UV & reflection treated overlap... Most frames shops that I've talked to go acrylic for increased durability.

I went to work on my alternate method to get glass mounted. My goal is to put horizontal dividers in the external case and use slots in the side and grooves in the dividers to hold the glass. I'll create finger holes somehow but that is for future me to worry about. Pictre below shows the rough layout.

I made the dividers 13/16" x 7/8" I started from 6/4 material and made sure to cut everything oversized. I sized one down to test the attachment method. I'm a bit rusty but it worked well. I"ll have to use some filler to make those gaps less noticeable.

A step back shows a bit more context. I'm starting to think i should have done a journal but I skipped all the beginning. I'll just do a showcase and show some of these steps when I'm done.

[roughsawn]

A little wood glue mixed with some walnut sanding dust should fill that gap nicely.

[Chet]

On 6/8/2022 at 6:28 AM, Chestnut said:

I"ll have to use some filler to make those gaps less noticeable.

I have been using a technique that I learned from William Ng.  You work wood glue into the gap and then sand with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper.  The low grit sandpaper gives a better dust particle to fill the gap and make it look more natural and it takes the finish way better then dust mixed with glue.  The low grit sandpaper is the important part.

Since I saw this on one of his videos it is my go-to for gaps and touch ups.

But as always try it for yourself on some scrap

[treeslayer]

I use wood dust mixed with shellac in a separate container and work it into the gaps works good 

[Robby W]

That truck works even better with hide glue, as it doesn't show under the finish line PVA or epoxy does.