What's on the bench.


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On 5/17/2022 at 10:16 PM, Coop said:

1/16 is not going to give you much of a profile. You can almost get that with a sanding block and 150 sandpaper. 

I realized that after I posted it. I think my 1/8" roundover test on a scrap of pine made it look too much like a 2x4. Will test it on a different scrap or just break the edges with some sandpaper.

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My chainsaw is on my bench. I was trying for a good 30 min last night to sharpen the chain but it just wouldn't budge on the bar. Turns out i got the chain brake backwards and had the brake engaged. The chain still doesn't freewheel as easily as it should though. I think I have some burrs on the drives that need to be removed.

11 hours ago, legenddc said:

What size rounder do you all use to break the edges on pieces? I have a 1/8" but wondering if 1/16" wouldn't be better?

I always think less is more. 1/8" can be way too much for me most times. I"ll sometimes do 1/16" by hand but it's more consistent to do it with a bit.


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  • 2 weeks later...

Ever have the problem where you make a project and on paper it sounds perfect on paper, then you make it and it starts to get daunting in size?

The shadow/display box I'm making just hit difficulty level 10 because i neglected to check glass pricing and availability and it's in the unruly large size... I"ll probably need to use 1/4" glass because the opening is 44" x 40". I was going to have the glass slide out to allow access but now I'm wondering if that is really feasible...

Now my question is do I continue or modify my design?

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30 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

I"ll probably need to use 1/4" glass because the opening is 44" x 40"

yeah hinge a door or make 2 doors and use glass door hinges and magnetic catches, or 1 piece and hinge it on the top, i did a big one many years ago, it sat on the floor for a guys toy tractor collection, used 1/4" for the front and sides and tempered on the top with a mirrored back that slid it tracks for access, this going on a wall Drew ?

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17 hours ago, Robby W said:

Another possibility is tempered glass. Very rigid and strong. That is what shower doors are made of. I have a shower door that is 36" wide and 72" tall - one sheet of 1/8" there's glass. 

That is an option though I'm not sure if the ven diagram of tempered glass and UV & reflection treated overlap... Most frames shops that I've talked to go acrylic for increased durability.

I went to work on my alternate method to get glass mounted. My goal is to put horizontal dividers in the external case and use slots in the side and grooves in the dividers to hold the glass. I'll create finger holes somehow but that is for future me to worry about. Pictre below shows the rough layout.


I made the dividers 13/16" x 7/8" I started from 6/4 material and made sure to cut everything oversized. I sized one down to test the attachment method. I'm a bit rusty but it worked well. I"ll have to use some filler to make those gaps less noticeable.


A step back shows a bit more context. I'm starting to think i should have done a journal but I skipped all the beginning. I'll just do a showcase and show some of these steps when I'm done.


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On 6/8/2022 at 6:28 AM, Chestnut said:

I"ll have to use some filler to make those gaps less noticeable.

I have been using a technique that I learned from William Ng.  You work wood glue into the gap and then sand with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper.  The low grit sandpaper gives a better dust particle to fill the gap and make it look more natural and it takes the finish way better then dust mixed with glue.  The low grit sandpaper is the important part.

Since I saw this on one of his videos it is my go-to for gaps and touch ups.

But as always try it for yourself on some scrap

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