..Kev Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 That is cool! Will go over awesome at Christmas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 Party on the porch ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-MattK- Posted July 23, 2015 Report Share Posted July 23, 2015 Mike, in post #213 (feet up, table saw and DC in the background) - where'd you put the power for the table saw (and jointer, I think)? I saw that you put a lot of 220s around the walls, but do you have a 220 in the ceiling as well? In the floor? Are you running a cable from the wall? Thanks! Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted July 23, 2015 Report Share Posted July 23, 2015 Mike those lights look awesome. Good job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJC5151 Posted July 24, 2015 Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 Ok...im looking at building a shop myself...this build post has been an awesome resources as it acts as a check list....i think you actually thought of everything. So the million dollar question...if i was going to build a shop simmilar to this what can i expect to set my budget at...not machinery just structure and infrastructure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted July 24, 2015 Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 One hundred MILLION dollars. .. bahahahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted August 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 Mike, in post #213 (feet up, table saw and DC in the background) - where'd you put the power for the table saw (and jointer, I think)? I saw that you put a lot of 220s around the walls, but do you have a 220 in the ceiling as well? In the floor? Are you running a cable from the wall? Thanks! MattYes I have 110 and 220 outlets in the ceiling above the machines Ok...im looking at building a shop myself...this build post has been an awesome resources as it acts as a check list....i think you actually thought of everything. So the million dollar question...if i was going to build a shop simmilar to this what can i expect to set my budget at...not machinery just structure and infrastructureI would get quotes from local pole barn builders. Figure at least 50% of building cost to complete the shop and that's doing most of the work yourself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Carlsten Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 This may have been asked already but what did it cost per Sq foot? My wife is interested in throwing up a pole barn as well a new barn. Can't seem to get any pricing out of anyone like morton. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 (edited) One hundred MILLION dollars. .. bahahahahaDr. Evil? Edited August 13, 2015 by davewyo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted August 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 This may have been asked already but what did it cost per Sq foot? My wife is interested in throwing up a pole barn as well a new barn. Can't seem to get any pricing out of anyone like morton. Sent from my SCH-I545 using TapatalkPricing isn't as simple at price per sq/ft. In addition to the size of the building it depends on style, porch, windows, doors, overhead door, ceiling height, etc. Going from a 30x40 to a 30x60 building might not cost a lot more, but concrete and finishing the inside will add a lot. If Morton won't get back to you I would contact other builders. In my area there is Lester (who I went with), Cleary, Astro, Wick, Morton, and some others. If none of them have time to get you pricing then they probably don't have time to put a building up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Carlsten Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Pricing isn't as simple at price per sq/ft. In addition to the size of the building it depends on style, porch, windows, doors, overhead door, ceiling height, etc. Going from a 30x40 to a 30x60 building might not cost a lot more, but concrete and finishing the inside will add a lot. If Morton won't get back to you I would contact other builders. In my area there is Lester (who I went with), Cleary, Astro, Wick, Morton, and some others. If none of them have time to get you pricing then they probably don't have time to put a building up. I was trying to get a rough estimate without really talking to people. She wants a HUGE barn with an indoor arena and thinks 200k is an overestimate lol Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 I was trying to get a rough estimate without really talking to people. She wants a HUGE barn with an indoor arena and thinks 200k is an overestimate lol Sent from my SCH-I545 using TapatalkI doubt $200k would put up a TENT big enough for an indoor arena! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted August 18, 2015 Report Share Posted August 18, 2015 Guess it depends if it's a thumb wrestling arena or equine jumping arena. . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted December 3, 2015 Report Share Posted December 3, 2015 Hey mike, while putting up your Osb wall sheets, did you use sheet rock screw or wood screws? I'm about to hang Osb and have boxes of 1 1/4" drywall screws but was wondering if those ate strong enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 3, 2015 Report Share Posted December 3, 2015 Bugle head drywall screws will snap off in OSB. Wood screws with nibs will sink in without pilot holes. I use square drive or combo drive ( Phillips and Square drive) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted December 3, 2015 Report Share Posted December 3, 2015 Steve, not being in the building/finishing trade, what are nibs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted December 3, 2015 Report Share Posted December 3, 2015 They're little ridges on the underside of the screw head. When you drive the screw they grind out the wood, thereby acting as a counter sink.Steve's right about the drywall scews. They are a lot cheaper, but it would only save you about $10 on the whole shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted December 3, 2015 Report Share Posted December 3, 2015 Good to know thanks. I'll make sure to pick up a few boxes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted December 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2015 I used square drive drywall screws for the OSB and didn't break a single one. IIRC, I read on another forum to buy a certain type of drywall screw but can't remember what that was. Maybe course vs fine thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted December 3, 2015 Report Share Posted December 3, 2015 I think the quality of the steel can vary a bit with drywall screws. I haven't had very good luck with them (Home Depot Philips drive) though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted December 6, 2015 Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 Mike, when installing your osb, it looks like you butted them right up to each other. I read there should be an 1/8" space. Being in California we don't get humidity swings so I'm not sure how critical that step is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 6, 2015 Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 Butt em up dude! Those things are heavy enough without trying to put in 1/8" spacers between each sheet! And after all, it's just a shop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted December 6, 2015 Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 I think the 1/8" spacing thing is for floor & wall sheathing where the panels may be exposed to weather before things are closed in from the elements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted December 6, 2015 Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 (edited) You have to use common sense. Sheets that are hot and humid are on the big side. Butt when hot and humid, use a dime in spring and fall, use a nail shank in the middle of winter. I have personally repaired many dozens of gapless that bowed studs. The force of the OSB expansion with ambient humidity will pull and push studs giving you an S curve wall. What saves a lot of people who don't gap is that they scheduled their project during a summer lay off. Conditioning the space certainly moderates this effect. One caveat is that often a bunk of OSB will get snow covered in the winter and will swell with the moisture even though the ambient humidity is down. No framer carries around a moisture meter, but it's wood and generally follows those rules. Another caveat for guys framing inside is that propane tube heaters put out a super damp heat. Again, just use common sense. Edited December 6, 2015 by C Shaffer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted December 6, 2015 Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 WOW ..What a great shop Shaffer..I bet to be in a new or remodeled shop would make a man enjoy his work much more.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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