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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I placed the flower at my basement door and turned the interior lights out, lit by sunlight diffused by neighboring trees. Exposure was 8 seconds at f/64. Film was Fuji Acros developed in Rodinal 1:50. Done with my 4x5 Ebony and 150mm Caltar lens.

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Posted

You might want to do a little research on focus stacking. Theres free programs you can download that will do the focus merge. Photoshop CS6 also has it integral. With a little care you can get stunning looking depth of field on macro shots..

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Posted

The main aim is to get the right amount of depth for the shot. Stopping down more will eventually result in diffraction problems and you will lose the sharpness you are fighting for. If you can use your lens at a middle aperture like f/8 and get the depth you need the image will be sharper. Ive seen this technique done with landscapes too.
This is a digital thing and extremely hard to do with film.

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Posted

Diffraction is something to consider but also consider, out of focus clarity is often a worse offender than diffraction. When in doubt go for a higher f stop.Though as always this depends on a LOT of factors. Sensor/film size, lens, focal length, focus distance, subject.

Shooting a portriat with a 300mm f2.8 is far different than a landscape with a 20mm f1.8

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Posted

Theres a platform jig you can buy for your camera pretty cheap you can mount on your tripod and put your camera on it that will allow you to move the camera precise distances between each shot. When you are focusing that close its better to set your focus distance on the lens then move the camera back and forth to get it focused where you want it. As you shoot you shift the camera a tiny amount each time to get overlap of the sharp areas. I got one like this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/184018340507

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