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Thanks Chet. There’s still a fox in the hen house though. This top has morphed from bb ends the old way to no bb ends and me buying ugly $$ walnut to back to bb ends using domino tenons. The first phase and eventually the last, required me to run down to the nearest and most expensive of my suppliers and and buying a 6’ piece of walnut that wasn’t part of the original boards to get the extra width I needed. I tried to select one to match to the best of ability. It will live on the backside of the top and covered with pictures and plants if need be.  ;)

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Thanks Dave. All credit goes to Marc in this video.

I post this so that others can get a better idea from the video than from my ramblings. At about 18:10 into the video for using the Domino. He demonstrates other bb end methods prior to that. 

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Good execution. The draw bore joint for bb ends was important pre tite bond. I make a lot of bb ends. Because I am left handed and rebellious I thought see what happens with just glue. No problem. Several years ago I contacted Franklin adhesives and spoke to an engineer. Tite bond creeps. That is what they said. Tite bond is not allowed for engineered beams or trusses. Creeping is beneficial for obvious reasons in woodworking. And the wood must be dry. I have  made dozens of bb ends and never a problem. The joint was needed pre tite bond. It appears that the creeping quality is not well known. I make the domino slots wider than the domino.

Either way I am sure this project with the skill of Coop will be an heirloom.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Probably not substantiated by others but:

The top- I’ve made other tables from this walnut and the ARS really pops the grain and I liked the results. So I wiped  it as a base coat and sprayed the GF for protection.

Everything else, base, doors and drawer fronts- Shellac base coat - Several years ago, @Chet introduceed me to shellac flakes and to it’s versatility. It sprays easily and dries quickly. You can apply it over anything and anything over it. I used blonde flakes to keep the finish as natural as possible. This stuff will wear you out as by the time you spray the last piece, it’s time to sand the first. Between coats, I sanded to 400 and before  the last coat, to 1000, no logic there. After the finish coat, everything received a smoothing with wadded up pieces of brown paper bags. 

I might add, that the top was finished with a formula provided by @Eric but I stopped short of his last step that included adding  mineral oil as I was afraid that it would accumulate dust. I kind of wish that I had taken that step just because it was his and the dude was cool!

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On 9/3/2022 at 8:11 PM, wtnhighlander said:

Thanks for the feedback. What little I have done with High Performance does tell me it makes a good protective top coat. I don't spray, though, so it sounded odd to do so many coats. Now it makes sense.

The top looks great Coop.  That tree has served you well.  I think the handles are going to work well also.

I am like Coop I spray the High Performance in light coats.  I also spray more coats on flat surfaces that will see use.  I had a past member here tell me that it was best to spray a heavier last coat.  I did and regretted it.  It ended up being cloudy.  I had to let it cure real well, sand it back and start over.  So don't do that.:wacko:

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ARS is oil based and HP is water bourne,  but aren't they both polyurethanes?  I get that the oil based ARS would pop grain, but I'm not following why finish coat with HP instead of just using more ARS?  But then all finishing is alchemy and ritual to me.  

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On 9/4/2022 at 10:47 AM, Mark J said:

ARS is oil based and HP is water bourne,  but aren't they both polyurethanes?  I get that the oil based ARS would pop grain, but I'm not following why finish coat with HP instead of just using more ARS?  But then all finishing is alchemy and ritual to me.  

They are both poly, but poly doesn’t burn into the existing layers like shellac and some others do. Like paint, you can’t just paint latex paint over oil without proper prep work. But maybe GF has some other modifiers in there that make them compatible. Finish “types” are very vague and allow for great variety of composition. 

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On 9/4/2022 at 9:47 AM, Mark J said:

ARS is oil based and HP is water bourne,  but aren't they both polyurethanes?  I get that the oil based ARS would pop grain, but I'm not following why finish coat with HP instead of just using more ARS?  But then all finishing is alchemy and ritual to me.  

According to General Finishes web site, the water based top coat can be applied over the ARS if allowed to dry 72 hours prior to applying. The GF HP at 59 on the hardness scale is not as hard as the ARS at 77 but is still very durable. My main reason for using the water based on top of the ARS was the drying time. As I already had the gun out, spraying the cabinet, I was able to apply 4 coats in one day as opposed to one a day with the ARS in our humidity. 

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