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The legs turned out real nice.  The thin veneer technique is the way to go in my book.  It looks just as nice and saves you money over having to purchase thicker stock.

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The walnut for my top is the very last of a tree that I cut down in Louisiana and had sliced up here in Houston. The cabinet length was based on the length of these boards and it was close. After milling them down to 3/4, along with shorter pieces for the bb ends, and cutting the edges to be glue friendly, I realized that I had screwed the pooch. With 3” wide bb ends, I forgot to allow for the 1.5” tongue loss on each end. Today I went to my hw supplier and purchased 18bf of walnut at $10.25 per. Tomorrow, back to the machines to get it where I won’t need bb ends. I’ll save the original walnut for another day, another project. 

Marc once said, “sometimes you work the wood and others, the wood works you”.

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On 8/4/2022 at 7:59 AM, Chestnut said:

Floating tenons for the BB? I've done a few tables this way it works out just fine. imo.

I thought about that and using the Domino as well. I thought if this thing is ever moved by someone other than myself, it would probably be hefted at the ends which may not support the weight. 

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On 8/4/2022 at 9:56 AM, Coop said:

it would probably be hefted at the ends which may not support the weight. 

I use dominos frequently on bb ends. I'm confident it would be no problem. Regardless I am enjoying the build. Make sure to sign and date. It is an heirloom.

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@Coop, if you are willing to play 'mad scientist', I've used lye on walnut before, which darkens it considerably. If you choose to experiment, I  suggest multiple applications of a weak lye solution, sanding as if you had raised the grain each time. A single application of strong solution can go realy dark, really fast.

And don't forget to neutralize the lye with a vinegar wash, or it will affect the top coat.

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@CoopI would look for a clean Sodium Hydroxide product. It is available from many internet sources, but for a quick experiment, you can look at drain cleaner labels, next time you go to the grocery. DrainO crystals, among others, is mostly sodium hydroxide.

The recipe depends on how much reaction you want. 1/4 teaspoon to a cup of water will have a noticable effect, but may require multiple applications to reach the desired darkness. The more powder you add, the stronger the reaction, the deeper the color in one application, and the more caustic the solution. A teaspoon in 1/2 cup of water will make the water quite warm.

DO NOT PRE-MIX!  The stuff doesn't store well after activated in water, and can corrode through many types of container.

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The front 2 and back board look nice the middle 2 ... no thanks. I've ran across walnut that looks like that before and while an oil finish does darken it ALOT from the blonde state it still isn't the walnut your probably wanting.

For making longer slots with the domino I find it helpful to work in 3s. Plunge the outside leaving some wood in the middle and then plunge in the middle to remove the remainder. If wide enough work in odd numbers of plunges. If you plunge in a line one after the other the rotation of the bit can cause some jerking or twisting of the tool. It won't cause any problems but it'll give you a bit of an adrenaline rush. It is possible to work this way you just have to work in the manner that the leading cutting edge is pulling the tool into the fence. I can't remember which direction that is any more because the odd number plunges works better so I just work that way now.

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