NOT-Roubo Workbench: Just to be Differnt


wnaziri

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Nice job on the top!  In hindsight, using the domino you could have trimmed the ends and gotten them pretty close!

As for the vise, I've never had a twin screw but, would also guess the 24. Go big or go home I guess ;)

Maybe take a look at youtube and see what guys like Schwarz recommends.. 

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Yeah, even at this point a track saw wouldn't help you. I think the ts75 has a cut depth a smidge over 3". How about a router with a straight edge and then flip the bench top over with a flush trim bit? Agreed, crosscut the smaller pieces before gluing next time. No way around it, cross cutting 4" thick material that weighs 150lbs isn't easy. 

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1 hour ago, wnaziri said:

Schwarz recommends using a vise made in 1236 AD, made of European Beech, using rocks for tools.  LOL.

Seems to me he has a twin screw on his personal shop bench..  I could be mistaken..

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More progress today.  I actually made the vise twice.

Here is the successful end product:

IMG_3307.jpg

The slot will house the chain for the twin screw vise.  As you can see, I went with the 24" vise.

I decided to make the vise from from some pieces of sapele that happened to be  just the right size.  I did the first version using a router but it was awful.  I did a lousy job on the routing.  Off it went into the scrap file.

For version 2.0 that I did today, I glued the pieces to yield the slot.  Much more elegant solution.

Next, drill holes for the vise.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I spent the last week getting my workbench closer to usable state.

Lie-Nielsen goodies were delivered on Monday.  By the way, I did go with the 24" version of the LN twin-screw vise.  IMG_3345.jpg

In gluing up the bench top, I used dominos to keep the pieces aligned and level.  I glued the top into 3 sub-assemblies.  The reason I did it this way was to make the vise construction easier.  The smallest of the sub-assemblies had the apron along with 3 pieces of maple.  This sub-assembly was light enough for me to pick it up and move it around.  Had I assemble the whole top, I could not turn it upside down to attach the vise.  

Before glue up of the apron sub-assembly, I drilled the holes for the vise.  I swear I measured about 12 times before drilling.

IMG_3357.jpg

Then, drilling of the vise itself.

IMG_3359.jpg

 

IMG_3361.jpg

Despite my efforts and care, the holes in the apron and the vise were off by about 1/32.  A bit of sanding fixed that.  Then, time to attach the vise.  It proved a little harder than I had thought but it was not too bad.  

IMG_3365.jpg

Once I secured all the components to bottom of the bench top, the difficult part to have the whole 2-foot piece of wood close parallel to the apron.  After about 30 minutes and lots choice words, I got the vise to close perfectly parallel to the apron.

IMG_3368.jpg

The vise closed, nice and straight, no gap top to bottom.

IMG_3369.jpg

When opened, the vise maintained the perfectly parallel gap.  I do not believe I will have any racking issues.

IMG_3367.jpg

Voila; here is the almost-end product.  

To Do:

- Glue the 3 sub-assemblies that make up the bench top, hopefully next time I am in my workshop.

- Cut the ends of the bench straight and plane the top flat.  

- Then, the ten drawers but I will not be in a hurry.  I now have an awesome bench that can be used!  This is my very first proper workbench ever.

 

 

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More progress.  The bench top is fully assembled and in place.  The design of the bench calls for 24 inch wide top but I added one extra maple plank so mine is 25.5 inches wide.  The final length is 84 inches.  I began the process of trimming the ends.  I am using a router to establish a straight, square edge and then will be using my cross cut panel saw to trim the rest.

If you look the pic below, you will see that I made a mistake and took a divot off the top edge with my router.  I will fix it at the end. :angry:

I began the process of flattening the top today.  I worked on the left half today until I got tired of planing.  I was using my No. 4 LN smoother for the job but I am wondering if a No. 62 low angle smoother might not be the better choice.  (I have been looking for an excuse to order one of those. :rolleyes:)

IMG_3377.jpg

 

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On 6/15/2016 at 7:32 PM, wnaziri said:

.  I was using my No. 4 LN smoother for the job but I am wondering if a No. 62 low angle smoother might not be the better choice.  (I have been looking for an excuse to order one of those. :rolleyes:)

IMG_3377.jpg

 

The number 62 is a la jack. I guess you could smooth with it but that's not quite it's best use. The best use would be doing a lot of things decently well.

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Looking really good!

To flatten, you probably want something that takes a bigger bite than a plane set up as a smoother.  Think coarse-medium-fine.  A smoothing plane is set for the fine work, eliminating the need for sandpaper.  (shavings like 0.001").  If you're trying to flatten something, you want to be at coarse or medium first, then move into fine.

You'll also want something longer to help keep it straighter/flatter. 

Given the choice between a #4 and a LAJ, I'd go with the LAJ for the length.  I'd set it for a thicker shaving until close.  Then switch to a smoothing plane.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
6 minutes ago, K Cooper said:

Beautiful bench and darn nice shop! What are the deminisions of your shop?

My shop is about 27' X 50'.  In the front of the shop is a small office, a closet, and a bathroom that take space away from workshop use.  

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56 minutes ago, wnaziri said:

Question:

I have not attached the top to the base....yet.  I keep thinking I would like to have a tail vise.  

 

The bench looks great.  Looks like you still have the drawers to go.  I think if it were me, I would work with the bench the way it is, see how often you wish you had the tail vice and let that help you decide if you need to add it.  Kind of like don't buy a tool until you need it.

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