Trip Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 ==>new vegetable garden Now, was this before you discussed your -- ahhhh --- irrigation system? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 17 minutes ago, -MattK- said: chicken run are going. Umm.. in the kitchen. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-MattK- Posted February 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 5 hours ago, drzaius said: What's the horizontal blocking for? Board & batten siding? I gotta get out of the office. I'm getting nothing done today. hey Frank, here's a close up of the inside of those walls. There are 2x4s running horizontally for the exterior pine boards to nail into. The exterior is 1x rough pine boards that we'll be staining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Matt whats the dimensions of the shop? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-MattK- Posted February 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 1 hour ago, Chet K. said: Matt whats the dimensions of the shop? 22x36 outside dimensions with 2x6 walls. I think it ends up at ~735 sq ft. Just got back from my daughter's basketball game and popped my head in there - feels enormous, especially with the scissor trusses on about 2/3 of the ceiling. 2 hours ago, hhh said: ahhhh --- irrigation system? funny, that's exactly the sound it makes! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 1 hour ago, -MattK- said: especially with the scissor trusses on about 2/3 of the ceiling. I noticed the different trusses is there some reason the other third are different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post -MattK- Posted February 5, 2016 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 10 minutes ago, Chet K. said: I noticed the different trusses is there some reason the other third are different? yeah - have a vaulted ceiling with the scissor trusses - so 13'+ to the peak for a big section of the building... (I really liked the look of the ceiling in @elrodk's shop) But also wanted some storage up there, so about 1/3 of the ceiling will actually have a loft. Here's a photo that might help: 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 I was guessing storage... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-MattK- Posted February 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Snow this morning - about 2" on the ground. Expecting 4-6". Probably not a lot of action expected on the camera - they're putting in windows & doors and flooring in the loft area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Hey this is coming along great! 735 sq ft that seems like a lot of space to me, but i always know how it goes once you get more space you always end up filling it up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-MattK- Posted February 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Not a ton of progress today - they were supposed to be roofing but ~6 inches of wet snow slowed them down. They did some trim work inside (including plywood in the loft area) and installed the patio door. I got the snow rake out and pulled most of the snow off the roof - I just didn't like it sitting up there on the sheathing. Next week it'll be finishing the roof, installing windows & doors, and hopefully pouring the slab if it gets warm enough. It'll be a bummer to have a completed shop with a gravel floor! I also put together another time lapse... this time it's the building coming together. Please excuse the soundtrack - the options are limited in premiere elements! (there's more rambling below the video) I walked through the building with the electrician and talked about where to put all the circuits. (I then got lucky to get some advice from @hhh) Plan is: dedicated 220s for each big tool (table saw, jointer planer, dust collector, lathe... and 40th birthday upgraded bandsaw which I'm still figuring out) 4 extra 220s in case the tools move or I get something bigger faster stronger dedicated 20 amp 110s for most of the smaller tools like the miter saw, router table, drum sander, drill press - probably doing twistlock for each 110s in the ceiling for the air filter, robo-reel air hose, extension cord 20 amp "convenience outlets" (I'd never heard that term) all over the place for chargers etc - putting them 50" above the floor so they'll be above a sheet of plywood leaned against the wall (can't remember where I read that, but I'm sure it's more WTO wisdom that I've soaked up) Trip and I talked about running 4 conductors in case I ever move up to 3-phase tools... I'm still on the fence there. I know it's cheaper to do it now, but if I handicap it, it feels so unlikely that I'd get a 3-phase tool... famous last words - you read them here! We might fit the panel tomorrow and measure how long the conductors are to run the service. But we can't run any romex until the roof's closed up (there's still an open vent at the top) and the windows/doors are installed. (another thing I learned today) And I'm trying to make a final decision on lights. I think it's going to be 16 4-lamp T-8 fixtures with LED bulbs. The electrician thinks that's way overkill... which is making me feel more confident! I've had a thread here before where I got a lot of great advice, so I'm not expecting everyone to write that again! I'm mostly following @Eric.'s advice to just put a bunch of lights in and ignore the science side of things. Thanks for following along - have a great weekend!! Matt 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Matt, the rule against wiring before windows and doors are in is a good one. Otherwise, all that fine copper wire will "escape" far too easily! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-MattK- Posted February 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 1 hour ago, wtnhighlander said: Matt, the rule against wiring before windows and doors are in is a good one. Otherwise, all that fine copper wire will "escape" far too easily! He said the technical reason was because of the paper in the romex... You don't want it exposed to water. But you're right, common sense says that you don't want to lose your investment in copper! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 When I did my electrical people said double the outlets you think you need which I ended up doing. Another good tip I got was put 2 120s next to each other but on different circuits. That way if you need to run 2 high draw tools next to each other you can. Also think about 40 amp for a cyclone and another circuit for heater. Some photos showing that here: https://goo.gl/photos/T5xFiLSSgjtE8tD87 I went with 10 of these high output T8 fixtures which put out 13,000 lumens each. That gives me 108 lumens per sq/ft and it's nice and bright in there. The Philips 5000K bulbs from HD are crap with black ends and the HO fixtures blowing out several. I ended getting Sylvania from an electrical supply store which are awesome. My fixtures: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-Tandem-4-Light-White-Fluorescent-Strip-Light-TUNS-2-32-MVOLT-1-4-GEBHL/202193181 This post shows my light layout and the tool I used to figure it out. It worked great and I have consistent light throughout the shop. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-MattK- Posted February 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 You're right Mike - I think I prefer those 8' light fixtures. Looks like they'll make it easier to get more consistent light coverage than the 4 footers.... and I'll probably need fewer of them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 If it were me I'd still go LED the light from them is easier on the eyes than that of their nasty alternative. I have an LED light over my bench and I'm always walking over to it if i need to see something better. I could probably explain it with physics but that stuff is black magic and just saying it works is way easier. Oh you'll also be able to see a more true color on your woods and finishes with LED beings that the light spectrum that comes from them is MUCH wider and better. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-MattK- Posted February 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 1 minute ago, Chestnut said: If it were me I'd still go LED the light from them is easier on the eyes than that of their nasty alternative. I have an LED light over my bench and I'm always walking over to it if i need to see something better. I could probably explain it with physics but that stuff is black magic and just saying it works is way easier. Oh you'll also be able to see a more true color on your woods and finishes with LED beings that the light spectrum that comes from them is MUCH wider and better. I'm going with LED bulbs in T-8 fixtures. That way if a light goes, it's just one of 4 bulbs to replace rather than an entire fixture. I can't get quite the CRI in a T-8 replacement that I can in a dedicated LED fixture, but it's going to be $1000+ cheaper which will help me in my progress towards a new bandsaw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-MattK- Posted February 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 Feb 6 update Worked with the electrician today. We measured for the conductor run from the house. 150+feet to run for a 200-amp service - I think this is going to be expensive! We did the "shop vac pulling a shopping bag tied to a string with distance markers" trick - it was really cool. The conduit had sat open, in the bottom of a trench for over a month before the foundation work was done... during that time it collected some water - 6 shop vacs full! (even with duct tape "sealing" the opening - moral of the story - use something more significant to seal the pipe, even temporarily) We installed the panel. We located all the outlets. The electrician underestimated the number of circuits I needed and we were going to be really close to filling up the 30 spaces in the panel so he decided he's going to change it to a 42 space panel. We ran the low voltage wires from the house using the same shop vac trick. I ran 3x cat5e, 1 RG6 and a fiber optic line. The fiber was really a "just in case" for a few reasons... I was a bit worried about distances - with the runs in the shop, in the house, and in the conduit, I was getting close to the max length for Cat5e. I'm sure I was being too cautious, but after today I sure as hell never want to pull wire through a conduit again, so I'm glad I ran it now I read stories (on the internet so you know they're true!) about Ethernet wiring getting cooked from lightning strikes. Who knows how big that risk really is... It wasn't super expensive - less than $100 for 100 meters with pre-terminated ends I tested the connection - it's as good as it is in the house - 50 mbps down, 20 mbps up. I think that's plenty for funny cat videos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 11 hours ago, Chestnut said: If it were me I'd still go LED the light from them is easier on the eyes than that of their nasty alternative. I have an LED light over my bench and I'm always walking over to it if i need to see something better. I could probably explain it with physics but that stuff is black magic and just saying it works is way easier. Oh you'll also be able to see a more true color on your woods and finishes with LED beings that the light spectrum that comes from them is MUCH wider and better. Sorry, I've got to disagree with you here. To get LEDs with a CRI of over 90 you've got to spend lots of money. Most LED fixtures you will find at Lowes, HD, Costco etc will have a CRI in the 70 - 80 range or worse. You can get fluorescents (Philips F32T8TL950) that have a CRI of 98. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 5 minutes ago, drzaius said: Sorry, I've got to disagree with you here. To get LEDs with a CRI of over 90 you've got to spend lots of money. Most LED fixtures you will find at Lowes, HD, Costco etc will have a CRI in the 70 - 80 range or worse. You can get fluorescents (Philips F32T8TL950) that have a CRI of 98. I think you missed the easy on the eye comment. The strobe flicker of fluorescents bothers a lot of people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 7 minutes ago, C Shaffer said: I think you missed the easy on the eye comment. The strobe flicker of fluorescents bothers a lot of people. Agreed, they have no flicker, although some cheap LEDs do have a bit of a strobe effect. My comments were addressing the quality of light (CRI) issues. Flicker in fluorescent fixtures is a thing of the past if they have quality electronic ballasts. The old magnetic ballasts ran a 60 Hz, but good electronic ones run at about 20,000 Hz. I'm not knocking LEDs, I love them & install lots of high end LED lighting at work. People just need to have all the info before jumping in & there is a lot of pretty bad LED lighting being sold. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 My HO T8 fixtures with 5000K 85 CRI bulbs have absolutely no flicker and great light. They put out 13,000 lumens at a cost of $60/fixture plus $8 in bulbs per fixture. Big Ass Lights which some people here have and love put out 13,000 lumens at 70 CRI but cost $400/fixture. So while LED are cool, have a small footprint, and cost less to run, the cost difference can really add up when you need several fixtures (10 in my case). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-MattK- Posted February 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 I ordered the same fixtures as Mike. (thanks for the link, Mike!) For bulbs, I'm going with these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-4-ft-T8-17-Watt-Cool-White-Linear-LED-Light-Bulb-10-Pack-456590/206402867?keyword=206402867 $9 / bulb. 82 CRI. 4000K. I would have preferred 5000K but the 10 packs were discontinued and the single bulbs are $25 each. I bought 4 of these and put them in a fixture. They work with the existing electronic ballast and don't require and rewiring. I'll update more once they're in... but given the shops I've worked in before, I'm pretty confident this is going to be amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 Matt do you know if HO T8 fixtures increase the light output of LED bulbs? Even if they don't it's still nice to have the higher quality ballasts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-MattK- Posted February 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 1 hour ago, estesbubba said: Matt do you know if HO T8 fixtures increase the light output of LED bulbs? Even if they don't it's still nice to have the higher quality ballasts. Dunno, Mike. I'm not familiar with the HO fixtures... And I didn't see that referenced on the link you shared earlier. Did I miss something? i tested those LED bulbs in a 4' 4 bulb lithonia fixture from HD just to make sure the ballast was ok with the LED bulbs and everything was fine. Can't compare to a fluorescent since I didn't have any bulbs handy. I guess I'll know more in a few weeks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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