Poplar!


RichardA

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     I've got a commission to build two twin beds out of Poplar, but the client wants a golden stain, like golden oak of Minwax.  The question is, I know poplar is blotchy at times for staining, should I use a wood conditioner prior to staining?  If not a wood conditioner, what is the best way to get a stain evenly on Poplar ?

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Pre stain works too. Or get the same stain mfg "natural " and use that for the first coat but don't give it any drying time. It will make the color lighter but not blotchy. Dyes are the way to go if you are trying to make it dark. Or use a stain that can be sprayed & wiped back. Spray and wipe the first stain coat then mist a second coat on to darken and don't wipe it. Put the first 2 finish coats on lightly before you sand between coats. Be careful sanding a finish that has stain under it. If you sand through at the edges & corners touch up is hard to make look right !

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50 minutes ago, Llama said:

I have to ask... Why poplar? 

That's the same question I had.   He say's he'd seen one like it, and wanted it .. The customer may not always be right but he's the customer, and no argument I gave would change his mind! ... So, now I need some assistance.

Okay, now the question is,  Where can I get Charles Neil's conditioner?

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15 minutes ago, RichardA said:

That's the same question I had.   He say's he'd seen one like it, and wanted it .. The customer may not always be right but he's the customer, and no argument I gave would change his mind! ... So, now I need some assistance.

Okay, now the question is,  Where can I get Charles Neil's conditioner?

On the positive side, it will be very gentle on all your tools. :)

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30 minutes ago, RichardA said:

That's the same question I had.   He say's he'd seen one like it, and wanted it .. The customer may not always be right but he's the customer, and no argument I gave would change his mind! ... So, now I need some assistance.

Okay, now the question is,  Where can I get Charles Neil's conditioner?

I've used his conditioner and it works well.  He has some YouTube videos as well that may be helpful.

http://www.cn-woodworking.com/cn-pre-color-conditioner/

 

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I am coming to realize that staining is often wood-dependent and technique dependent. Just starting to look at this arena.

Was watching one of those PBS/Create TV woodworking shows a few weeks ago and there was a discussion about stains and preventing blotching.  The older gentleman did it two steps. First, a little water on the wood, just a mist amount, to carry the stain. Then a light stain, let it set, followed by a fuller stain.  The lighter pre stain apparently allowed the final stain to be carried consistently, and no extra $ for pre-treatment/conditioner. He was working on maple, iirc.

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The good news is that poplar is cheap so you can get several 24" boards and do some sample staining front and back for the client to see how the wood will look with a finish on it. Be sure to do a relatively large area - small samples won't show the inconsistency of the color and that is going to be your biggest challenge. The other challenge will be getting enough stock that is close to the same tone - poplar has a ton of color variation from blonde to dark green

I wouldn't start building anything until you have a sample finish that he is happy with. If he doesn't like how the finishes look then you can either offer to do a different wood or to give him the beds unfinished so he can find someone else to apply the finish.

I tried to stain poplar once 15 years ago. I got halfway done with the staining and it looked like &*%$. I let it dry then primed and painted over it. Since then I have decided that I don't want to stain any more poplar.

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1 hour ago, Eric. said:

Let's just be honest...poplar is a paint-grade wood.  Unless you're painting it or using it as secondary for drawer sides, web frames, etc...it shouldn't be used.

It's our job as craftsmen to explain this to customers, who usually know nothing.  If they still insist, I guess it's a matter of how desperate you are to put food on the table.  It's not something I would be willing to do right now, but if I was broke enough I guess I would...my kids gotta eat.  I wouldn't get an ounce of enjoyment out of a project like that though.  Guaranteed.

I agree with you Eric, but this commission creates a real problem for me!  This client is the very same guy that I buy 90% of my wood from!  And since I get extremely good pricing, much better than any would believe, I just can't say no to this build.  This is one of those "rock and a hard place" conundrums. 

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Just now, RichardA said:

I agree with you Eric, but this commission creates a real problem for me!  This client is the very same guy that I buy 90% of my wood from!  And since I get extremely good pricing, much better than any would believe, I just can't say no to this build.  This is one of those "rock and a hard place" conundrums. 

Totally get it...ya gotta do what ya gotta do.  You'd think a "wood guy" would know better.  Hard headed with bad taste...tough combination to deal with.

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Just got back from the lumber yard today and I saw some slabs described as "Australian Poplar."   It actually had some interesting grain with a nice brown color.  It would make a nice table top, except that it's so soft.  I wonder if it's the same species?  There wasn't any of the characteristic green color of the poop poplar that I'm used to seeing.  

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I can see an experienced butcher going into a steak place and the waiter trying to convince him on which cut of meat to order. I'm sure said butcher would welcome a suggestion but would probably go elsewhere if a filet is forced down his throat when he had his heart set on prime rib.

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8 minutes ago, Eric. said:

I'm sure it's not unless your lumber dealer is really desperate for new marketing angles.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eucalyptus_populnea

I'd avoid anything from the eucalyptus genus unless you were 100% sure it was old growth. New growth is generally trash. Hint: If it's being sold at a yard, it's not.

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