Isaac Posted December 19, 2018 Report Share Posted December 19, 2018 Derek, this is very inspiring work. I always appreciate having something to strive for. Keep it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 On 12/18/2018 at 12:15 AM, derekcohen said: Coop, no one sells this guide. I think that you are pulling my leg Cut accurate - precise - 45 degree mitres at the ends of a piece of scrap. Glue a fence to one side. The fence ensures that the mitres remain square at all times. The double end means that the guide can be reversed. Regards from Perth Derek Sorry, I had reference to the attractive 45* speed square you are using. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted December 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 Coop ... ahha ... It is made by Shinwa. Sold here. Regards from Perth Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 Thanks bud! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 Great work and technique. Thanks for sharing. I like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post derekcohen Posted December 27, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted December 27, 2018 A few progress shots. The main focus is to complete the carcase. However, to do the carcase, it is important to plan ahead for the drawer case. The drawer case (at 10mm) is half the thickness of the carcase (20mm). The (eventual) drawer fronts (one for each side) will be the same Fiddleback Jarrah as the top and sides, and will be inset (rather than lipped). The purpose of the thinner sides is simply aesthetic - I want it to look lighter, to subtly separate it from the carcase. The drawer front will be the same thickness as the carcase, and the drawer sides the same thickness as the drawer case. Before beginning on dovetailing the ends, stopped dados were marked out for the drawer case. The lower- and upper panels were clamped together and a MDF template of the drawer case set in position... Marked out, chisel walls made ... ... to guide the saw cut ... Then chiseled .. ... and routered out ... Following the method outlined previously, the two ends and the top were joined with mitred through dovetails ... One edge ... .. and the other side ... The plan now is to size the drawer case sides before dovetailing and joining the lower panel. Why the templates and sizing at this stage? When the two ends of the lower panel have been dovetailed, the two sides of the drawer case must be fitted before the panel can be attached. In other words, these three pieces are fitted together at the same time. Now, as the sides of the drawer case run in a stopped dado, they need to be sized beforehand. This fitting is different and far more exacting that in the typical carcase which as a stopped dado on one side only, and the dividing panels (which I term the drawer case) are slid in, allowing one to mark where the front rebates will go. In the present build, the front and rear rebates need to be determined beforehand, and cut before the parts are brought together. The MDF template is to aid in measuring up the sides for the drawer case. This is one of the (number of) surprises of this build: it looks so simple from the outside, but when it comes to constructing ... In the photo below, the dados are checked for size with a 10mm wide template ... An MDF template checks the case sides are parallel ... At the far end is another MDF template to size the drawer case sides ... That's it for now. Regards from Perth Derek 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post derekcohen Posted December 28, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted December 28, 2018 I assembled the carcase today. This began with glueing the one end and, while that dried, fitting the sides of the drawer box ... Someone predicted that this glue up would be interesting. Was it ever. I had this plan to glue the ends, attach the drawer box, and then simply drop the top side into place. What could be easier? Except ... I realised as I positioned the drawer box dividers in their stopped dados - and was just about to glue in the other end - that the ends were tails and the top section had pins ... and they needed to be slid in horizontally, not vertically! The order of assembly should have been: fit drawer box to open base, add top section, now add one end and then the other. I removed the drawer box parts, and attached the top panel to the already glued end. Lifting the top at an angle, the drawer box dividers were wiggled in. And then I discovered that they were 10mm too high! Oh hell (or some other descriptive) .. I propped up the top panel, quickly calculated how much needed to be removed on the table saw, did both dividers, rebated the ends again ... ... it fits ... (phew) .. up ended the monster (which weighed a bloody ton, but I was now a demon possessed of desperation strength!), glued in the last side, and squared the carcase .... And everything is square ... I'll clean it up tomorrow, and then start on rounding the ends. Regards from Perth Derek 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted January 2, 2019 Report Share Posted January 2, 2019 On 12/27/2018 at 7:41 PM, derekcohen said: I assembled the carcase today. This began with glueing the one end and, while that dried, fitting the sides of the drawer box ... Someone predicted that this glue up would be interesting. Was it ever. I had this plan to glue the ends, attach the drawer box, and then simply drop the top side into place. What could be easier? Except ... I realised as I positioned the drawer box dividers in their stopped dados - and was just about to glue in the other end - that the ends were tails and the top section had pins ... and they needed to be slid in horizontally, not vertically! The order of assembly should have been: fit drawer box to open base, add top section, now add one end and then the other. I removed the drawer box parts, and attached the top panel to the already glued end. Lifting the top at an angle, the drawer box dividers were wiggled in. And then I discovered that they were 10mm too high! Oh hell (or some other descriptive) .. I propped up the top panel, quickly calculated how much needed to be removed on the table saw, did both dividers, rebated the ends again ... ... it fits ... (phew) .. up ended the monster (which weighed a bloody ton, but I was now a demon possessed of desperation strength!), glued in the last side, and squared the carcase .... And everything is square ... I'll clean it up tomorrow, and then start on rounding the ends. Regards from Perth Derek Nice recovery. Last year I made a little unit that goes under my computer monitor and has some small drawers and a space for the keyboard. Nothing on the scale of this piece, but it did have similar jigsaw challenges as far as the assembley during the glue up. It seemed so simple in concept, but when it was go time, it was a bear getting everything in place, glued and squared. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmac Posted January 2, 2019 Report Share Posted January 2, 2019 A good reminder that doing a dry run of your glue up is wise. It's a practice I am tempted to skip quite often but I force myself. Looking good so far and an enjoying following along Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted January 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2019 I did a dry run, but with individual parts, not all together. The problem working Jarrah is that it is both hard and brittle. The repeated disassembly is that parts break. This happened with a tail end section, which I had to glue together. Regards from Perth Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post derekcohen Posted January 2, 2019 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 2, 2019 When we left off, it was with the carcase together ... Step 1: clean up the carcase Low angle plane for the end grain and cross grain ends .. Then the face grain top and bottom .. And I had a chance to use a small BU infill smoother I made several years ago on the edges. Perfect for one-handed smoothing ... Step 2: Time to round the ends. In the test piece, it looked like this .. This lacked the inside hollowed filet. The build today starts with the making of the filet. The first decision was that this had to be made of end grain. If it was made of side grain, the sides of the filet would be end grain, which would clash - darken - with the side grain of the carcase when a finish is applied. Fortunately, I had this one last offcut. Just enough ... The filet is triangular with a hollow on the outside. I first tried shaping this with a hollow plane on a sticking board, having sliced off a triangular section on the table saw. It was impossible to do. No way to hold the wood and plane it. I tried a number of variations. I won't go there. They were all impossible. You do it, you're a better man - or woman - than me. You're probably better anyway Finally I came up with this. Start with ripping a 45 degree bevel on the table saw (slider here, with board held in a Fritz and Franz jig) ... The router table is set up with a round nose bit ... The mitre can be run past this and the bit will shape a round hollow .. https://i.postimg.cc/fynGngm7/4.jpg[/img Now saw this off on the table saw ... I made a bunch of them (as they are a little fragile) ... Before glueing them in, each was sanded - 80/120/240 grit on a dowel, with the filet held on the sticking board .. The filets were then glued in (Titebond hide glue for everything). A dowel was used to place pressure evenly on the corners ... Step 3: shape the ends I used a larger washer than this one this time to mark out the curve (as the radius needed to be reduced) ... Then began planing ... Refined with a block plane ... ... and finished with sandpaper. That's it for today. Next I begin the tapered and splayed legs. Regards from Perth Derek 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted January 2, 2019 Report Share Posted January 2, 2019 I don't know why i had concerns but part of me was worried that your internal fillet was goign to be too large or radius and look out of place compared to the external fillet. My worries were unfounded because it looks great. The grain of that wood makes it look like it's not the most fun to work but it looks like your doing an awesome job with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmac Posted January 2, 2019 Report Share Posted January 2, 2019 1 hour ago, derekcohen said: I did a dry run, but with individual parts, not all together. The problem working Jarrah is that it is both hard and brittle. The repeated disassembly is that parts break. This happened with a tail end section, which I had to glue together. Regards from Perth Derek Ahh, I do remember in the beginning you were worried about the hardness and the brittleness of the Jarrah. Looking great so far, looking forward to your next post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 Looking awesome ! That internal fillet really finishes off the look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 I can't wait to see this piece with some finish on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post derekcohen Posted January 5, 2019 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 5, 2019 We are at the stage where the base - rail with tapered and splayed legs - is to be done next. This is the photo of the model ... I like this base, and have chosen to replicate it. The two relevant items are the angle of the splay (which I estimated as 10 degrees), and the positioning of the ends of the legs (these appear to end in line with the carcase). I get my Jarrah these days from an urban salvage yard, but some of it is ex-roofing beams, like this ... It is a wonderful moment when it comes out the other end ... I planed up a couple of these to find 4 blanks that would make the legs. Each is 450mm long. The legs will taper in the round from 40mm at the top to 25mm at the bottom. The mortices were marked out ... ... and routed out (I have a great jig for this - just made for hard, hard woods) .. .. leaving ... The ends of the mortices are squared up ... .. and then onto the lathe ... A little tinted epoxy is needed to repair some of the resin holes ... Next step is to determine the length of the rails. This is a no-math process that simply involves laying out the parts, with the legs at 10 degrees ... Sawing the tenons is easy enough. The rails are 19mm (3/4") and the tenon/mortice is 1/4" wide .. The tenon shoulder needs to be fitted flush with the leg ... The easiest way is to use blue tape to mark the shoulders ... The shoulder of the mortice is levelled with a chisel and rasp .. ... until each is a good fit .. Finally, the glue up begins ... I pulled off the clamps a short while ago ... I'll clean it up in the morning. Regards from Perth Derek 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted January 5, 2019 Report Share Posted January 5, 2019 Coming together very nice Derek, are you as excited as I am to see finish on it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 5, 2019 Report Share Posted January 5, 2019 I'm curious to see how you level the tops of the legs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 6, 2019 Report Share Posted January 6, 2019 Damn, that’s sweet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve B Anderson Posted January 6, 2019 Report Share Posted January 6, 2019 That is a nice piece Derek. Very impressive hand tool work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 6, 2019 Report Share Posted January 6, 2019 Great seeing so much hand tool work combined with some very nice power tools ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post derekcohen Posted January 7, 2019 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 Finishing the base .. Splayed legs leave their tops angled with the rails, and they need to be flushed ... ... to be coplanar on both sides ... The next step was to add corner reinforcing blocks. These were glued and screwed ... You can see they follow the angled rails (created by the splayed legs). The under side .. The final stage was to level the legs. Measure the height at each corner, and use wedges under each leg until the height is the same for all ... Hot glue the wedges so they do not move ... Once done, scribe the bottom of each leg ... Electrician's tape is great for marking at an angle ... Saw off the waste, and we are done ... I checked the result with a digital angle box. All good. Sanded to 240 grit ... The drawer and finishing is left to do. Regards from Perth Derek 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmac Posted January 7, 2019 Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 Great tip with the electrician's tape, I always find making that cut and following the line difficult. Enjoying the build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post derekcohen Posted January 8, 2019 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 8, 2019 It is now beginning to look like something familiar .... The legs appear pretty strong and solid. No flex. Regards from Perth Derek 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted January 8, 2019 Report Share Posted January 8, 2019 Wonderful build thread. Great progress shots and descriptions of the process. This piece is going to be quite the heirloom. It has a "stepped right out of the 60's" feel from my MCM childhood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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