pkinneb Posted October 18, 2021 Report Share Posted October 18, 2021 On 10/18/2021 at 8:10 AM, Chestnut said: What are you using for a bag? It looks different from a trash bag I might find in a store. I've always mentally pushed back on the bags as unnecessary but i am getting sick of having to empty out my dust can. Oh also how does the bag impact the seal between the bin and the lid? I know from experience any air leaks there would dramatically increase the fines that get sent to the filter stack. Oneida sells bags specific for this but after a year or so I switched to tuffy leaf bags and have never noticed any issues. I reuse them several times as well since I dump my saw dust in the woods. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted October 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2021 No real help here. I scrounged a couple dozen of these static control bags from gear we received at work. Like pkinneb I find any heavy-enough bag will work. I also used to poo poo bags but got tired of hefting the whole barrel up to make the dump. I simply make sure the bag is sitting reasonably on the rim of the barrel. The soft rubber gasket on the under side of the lid does fine. At least it passes the incense stick smoke test 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 19, 2021 Report Share Posted October 19, 2021 Glenn, looking at the pic where you cut the frp, the height is 2’ or less so your canister is probably 16 to 20 gal. max? My initial canister is a 30 gal. fiber drum that sits in my shop, unfortunately. I cut a slot about halfway up and attached a clear plexiglass site glass to monitor the amount of dust. Yours being remote, how do you plan to determine when yours is full? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted October 19, 2021 Report Share Posted October 19, 2021 On 10/18/2021 at 8:29 PM, Coop said: Glenn, looking at the pic where you cut the frp, the height is 2’ or less so your canister is probably 16 to 20 gal. max? My initial canister is a 30 gal. fiber drum that sits in my shop, unfortunately. I cut a slot about halfway up and attached a clear plexiglass site glass to monitor the amount of dust. Yours being remote, how do you plan to determine when yours is full? Not sure what gee-dub has planned but I have a bin sensor in mine that flashes a light in the shop area once it gets full. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 19, 2021 Report Share Posted October 19, 2021 How does that work? Surely it’s not like a float valve on an A/C pan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted October 19, 2021 Report Share Posted October 19, 2021 On 10/18/2021 at 9:27 PM, Coop said: How does that work? Surely it’s not like a float valve on an A/C pan? I'll take a pic or two tomorrow but its a small electric motor that spins with an arm on it when it hits saw dust a blue light in the shop starts flashing. This is pretty old I think they have some more refined models now but hey it work's so... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted October 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2021 On 10/18/2021 at 6:29 PM, Coop said: Glenn, looking at the pic where you cut the frp, the height is 2’ or less so your canister is probably 16 to 20 gal. max? My initial canister is a 30 gal. fiber drum that sits in my shop, unfortunately. I cut a slot about halfway up and attached a clear plexiglass site glass to monitor the amount of dust. Yours being remote, how do you plan to determine when yours is full? On 10/18/2021 at 7:10 PM, pkinneb said: Not sure what gee-dub has planned but I have a bin sensor in mine that flashes a light in the shop area once it gets full. My barrel is 35 gallons. I got the short barrel since I didn't want to lift big barrels anymore. That was 15 years ago and now I don't want to lift ANY barrels anymore . I have a Bindicator that I have been intending to install for years. Now that the DC is finally out of view I will have to forge ahead with that 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted October 19, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted October 19, 2021 Well, if I am down to caulking door trim and touching up paint I guess this journey is over. Thanks to everyone that tagged along, gave me ideas (knowingly or unknowingly), and encouragement. Anything that happens from here on will be considered an actual shop activity and will get its own thread if deserving. Thanks again! 7 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted October 19, 2021 Report Share Posted October 19, 2021 Thanks for the ride. It's always good to see something nice come together. Now, you need to impress us with some woodwork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted October 19, 2021 Report Share Posted October 19, 2021 I’m with @RichardA thanks for the ride, but he’s wrong, you’ve already impressed us, looking forward to the next build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted October 19, 2021 Report Share Posted October 19, 2021 With out a doubt, we want to see projects poring out of this great, new shop space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted October 19, 2021 Report Share Posted October 19, 2021 I never tape for caulking. I use the quick setting stuff, not because it sets quickly, but because it sets quickly, it shrinks the least. I put on a little more than is needed, shape it with my finger, which includes wiping most of it off, and throwing it away. It's never shaped enough to squeeze out past my finger, or indent into the joint. After a short stroke, not long enough to spread the caulking to the side, more wiping off the part I don't want, than shaping, the finger is wiped on a damp sponge, or wall drape, if we're using that. A different place on the sponge is used for each finger wipe, so the finger is completely cleaned. When there are no spaces left on the sponge to hold, or wipe a finger clean, the sponge is rinsed in a sink. I've had two different Architects tell me that I'm the best finish carpenter they've ever seen. Both came to our house to get puppies at different times. I didn't tell them, but what they didn't know was that I was the best caulker they've ever seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted October 19, 2021 Report Share Posted October 19, 2021 On 10/19/2021 at 10:58 AM, gee-dub said: Well, if I am down to caulking door trim and touching up paint I guess this journey is over. Thanks to everyone that tagged along, gave me ideas (knowingly or unknowingly), and encouragement. Anything that happens from here on will be considered an actual shop activity and will get its own thread if deserving. Thanks again! Thanks for the ride its a great space and you have done a lot to / with it, can't wait to see your projects start rolling out!! On 10/18/2021 at 9:41 PM, pkinneb said: I'll take a pic or two tomorrow but its a small electric motor that spins with an arm on it when it hits saw dust a blue light in the shop starts flashing. This is pretty old I think they have some more refined models now but hey it work's so... Here you go coop... So this motor has a shaft That spins this and when it hits the saw dust it flashes this blue light 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post curlyoak Posted October 20, 2021 Popular Post Report Share Posted October 20, 2021 This is a great document of building a woodworking shop from scratch. It should be mandatory reading before any attempt to build. This thread is a gift to any woodworker. Thank you! Gee-dub Based on escalating commodity prices my guess you are over budget. If you are comfortable in allowing your total costs I think it would be helpful to anyone considering to build. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby W Posted October 21, 2021 Report Share Posted October 21, 2021 Thanks, Gee-Dub. It is looking like I am going to be moving in about a year to a new state. This is going to give me a chance to build a new shop. Your thread gave me a bunch of ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan McCully Posted October 26, 2021 Report Share Posted October 26, 2021 Did you ever consider putting your ducting in the floor? It’s looking like my ceilings will likely be 14’ for the purposes of resale value (if something crazy happens and I’m forced to move again), so I’m not too worried about ducting getting in the way. However, i have a friend who recently told me that putting ducting in the floor would be the one change he’d make if he built his shop again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted October 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2021 On 10/25/2021 at 5:05 PM, Jonathan McCully said: Did you ever consider putting your ducting in the floor? It’s looking like my ceilings will likely be 14’ for the purposes of resale value (if something crazy happens and I’m forced to move again), so I’m not too worried about ducting getting in the way. However, i have a friend who recently told me that putting ducting in the floor would be the one change he’d make if he built his shop again. I have learned that the only constant is change. Having to cap holes and / or run hose if I upgrade a machine or change my mind would be my concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan McCully Posted October 26, 2021 Report Share Posted October 26, 2021 11 hours ago, gee-dub said: I have learned that the only constant is change. Having to cap holes and / or run hose if I upgrade a machine or change my mind would be my concern. That’s always been my concern as well. Thanks for your input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 18, 2021 Report Share Posted December 18, 2021 I went all the way back to Sheetrocking and don’t find it mentioned and heck, I might have asked it myself? And I bet I should know. What is the machine just to the left of your drill press? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted December 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2021 Jet Oscillating edge belt sander. I put a larger shop made table on it with an adjustable fence/stop so it’s kind of in disguise :-) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted December 18, 2021 Report Share Posted December 18, 2021 On 12/17/2021 at 9:15 PM, gee-dub said: Oscillating edge belt sander Thats a tool I really wish I had room for, but I guess you can't have them all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted January 1, 2022 Report Share Posted January 1, 2022 On 12/17/2021 at 10:40 PM, Coop said: I went all the way back to Sheetrocking and don’t find it mentioned and heck, I might have asked it myself? And I bet I should know. What is the machine just to the left of your drill press? @gee-dub Did you happen to do a build journal on the vacuum hose reel? I did a search but couldn't find anything. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted January 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2022 On 1/1/2022 at 2:20 PM, pkinneb said: @gee-dub Did you happen to do a build journal on the vacuum hose reel? I did a search but couldn't find anything. Thanks! The reel is a Fast Cap product. It is four pieces of plywood, two lazy Susan, a dust fitting, and a handle. I bought two of them when they first came out and way before I even broke ground on the shop. Introductory offer or some-such. I think they are now about $130 which still isn't bad for the CNC'd parts and everything you need to slap it together other than a section of 2x4. If you are talking about the vac modification it is here. I did sand and shellac the Fast Cap plywood parts to make them a little smoother on the hands and hose. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 4, 2022 Report Share Posted February 4, 2022 @gee-dub, how did you connect from the pvc direct to the hose when a gate wasn’t involved? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted February 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2022 @Coop I wish I had a magic bullet for you but I have no hose connections without a gate ;-( I prefer to have the shortest hose possible. I also want no unused hose section present when the DC is running so I have the gate right at the pipe to hose transition. I do sometimes have multiple gates open. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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