New Shop Thread


gee-dub
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On 10/18/2021 at 8:10 AM, Chestnut said:

What are you using for a bag? It looks different from a trash bag I might find in a store.

I've always mentally pushed back on the bags as unnecessary but i am getting sick of having to empty out my dust can.

Oh also how does the bag impact the seal between the bin and the lid? I know from experience any air leaks there would dramatically increase the fines that get sent to the filter stack.

Oneida sells bags specific for this but after a year or so I switched to tuffy leaf bags and have never noticed any issues. I reuse them several times as well since I dump my saw dust in the woods.

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No real help here. I scrounged a couple dozen of these static control bags from gear we received at work.  Like pkinneb I find any heavy-enough bag will work.  I also used to poo poo bags but got tired of hefting the whole barrel up to make the dump. I simply make sure the bag is sitting reasonably on the rim of the barrel. The soft rubber gasket on the under side of the lid does fine. At least it passes the incense stick smoke test :)

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Glenn, looking at the pic where you cut the frp, the height is 2’ or less so your canister is probably 16 to 20 gal. max? My initial canister is a 30 gal. fiber drum that sits in my shop, unfortunately. I cut a slot about halfway up and attached a clear plexiglass site glass to monitor the amount of dust. Yours being remote, how do you plan to determine when yours is full? 

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On 10/18/2021 at 8:29 PM, Coop said:

Glenn, looking at the pic where you cut the frp, the height is 2’ or less so your canister is probably 16 to 20 gal. max? My initial canister is a 30 gal. fiber drum that sits in my shop, unfortunately. I cut a slot about halfway up and attached a clear plexiglass site glass to monitor the amount of dust. Yours being remote, how do you plan to determine when yours is full? 

Not sure what gee-dub has planned but I have a bin sensor in mine that flashes a light in the shop area once it gets full.

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On 10/18/2021 at 9:27 PM, Coop said:

How does that work? Surely it’s not like a float valve on an A/C pan? 

I'll take a pic or two tomorrow but its a small electric motor that spins with an arm on it when it hits saw dust a blue light in the shop starts flashing. This is pretty old I think they have some more refined models now but hey it work's so...

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On 10/18/2021 at 6:29 PM, Coop said:

Glenn, looking at the pic where you cut the frp, the height is 2’ or less so your canister is probably 16 to 20 gal. max? My initial canister is a 30 gal. fiber drum that sits in my shop, unfortunately. I cut a slot about halfway up and attached a clear plexiglass site glass to monitor the amount of dust. Yours being remote, how do you plan to determine when yours is full? 

 

On 10/18/2021 at 7:10 PM, pkinneb said:

Not sure what gee-dub has planned but I have a bin sensor in mine that flashes a light in the shop area once it gets full.

My barrel is 35 gallons.  I got the short barrel since I didn't want to lift big barrels anymore.  That was 15 years ago and now I don't want to lift ANY barrels anymore :D

I have a Bindicator that I have been intending to install for years.  Now that the DC is finally out of view I will have to forge ahead with that :)

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I never tape for caulking.  I use the quick setting stuff, not because it sets quickly, but because it sets quickly, it shrinks the least.

I put on a little more than is needed, shape it with my finger, which includes wiping most of it off, and throwing it away.  It's never shaped enough to squeeze out past my finger, or indent into the joint.  After a short stroke, not long enough to spread the caulking to the side, more wiping off the part I don't want, than shaping, the finger is wiped on a damp sponge, or wall drape, if we're using that.  A different place on the sponge is used for each finger wipe, so the finger is completely cleaned.  When there are no spaces left on the sponge to hold, or wipe a finger clean, the sponge is rinsed in a sink.

I've had two different Architects tell me that I'm the best finish carpenter they've ever seen.  Both came to our house to get puppies at different times.  I didn't tell them, but what they didn't know was that I was the best caulker they've ever seen.

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On 10/19/2021 at 10:58 AM, gee-dub said:

Well, if I am down to caulking door trim and touching up paint I guess this journey is over.  

Thanks to everyone that tagged along, gave me ideas (knowingly or unknowingly), and encouragement.  Anything that happens from here on will be considered an actual shop activity and will get its own thread if deserving.  Thanks again!

Thanks for the ride its a great space and you have done a lot to / with it, can't wait to see your projects start rolling out!!

On 10/18/2021 at 9:41 PM, pkinneb said:

I'll take a pic or two tomorrow but its a small electric motor that spins with an arm on it when it hits saw dust a blue light in the shop starts flashing. This is pretty old I think they have some more refined models now but hey it work's so...

Here you go coop...

So this motor has a shaft

36029014_dc2.jpg.59111d35d77fb24c1d4931b9b66b6ca3.jpg

That spins this

84416400_dc3.jpg.4b5a6078cb9351c3136e3a080774603b.jpg

and when it hits the saw dust it flashes this blue light

1764683592_dc1.jpg.7cffdf59b8dce5148e15ca3d2b49aec1.jpg

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Did you ever consider putting your ducting in the floor? It’s looking like my ceilings will likely be 14’ for the purposes of resale value (if something crazy happens and I’m forced to move again), so I’m not too worried about ducting getting in the way. However, i have a friend who recently told me that putting ducting in the floor would be the one change he’d make if he built his shop again.

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On 10/25/2021 at 5:05 PM, Jonathan McCully said:

Did you ever consider putting your ducting in the floor? It’s looking like my ceilings will likely be 14’ for the purposes of resale value (if something crazy happens and I’m forced to move again), so I’m not too worried about ducting getting in the way. However, i have a friend who recently told me that putting ducting in the floor would be the one change he’d make if he built his shop again.

I have learned that the only constant is change.  Having to cap holes and / or run hose if I upgrade a machine or change my mind would be my concern. :)

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On 12/17/2021 at 10:40 PM, Coop said:

I went all the way back to Sheetrocking and don’t find it mentioned and heck, I might have asked it myself? And I bet I should know. What is the machine just to the left of your drill press? 

image.jpeg.0199bbb52d2f31b572078fa34e1a0dba.jpeg

@gee-dub Did you happen to do a build journal on the vacuum hose reel? I did a search but couldn't find anything. Thanks!

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On 1/1/2022 at 2:20 PM, pkinneb said:

@gee-dub Did you happen to do a build journal on the vacuum hose reel? I did a search but couldn't find anything. Thanks!

The reel is a Fast Cap product.  It is four pieces of plywood, two lazy Susan, a dust fitting, and a handle.  I bought two of them when they first came out and way before I even broke ground on the shop.  Introductory offer or some-such.  I think they are now about $130 which still isn't bad for the CNC'd parts and everything you need to slap it together other than a section of 2x4.

If you are talking about the vac modification it is here.  I did sand and shellac the Fast Cap plywood parts to make them a little smoother on the hands and hose.

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@Coop  I wish I had a magic bullet for you but I have no hose connections without a gate ;-(

I prefer to have the shortest hose possible.  I also want no unused hose section present when the DC is running so I have the gate right at the pipe to hose transition.  I do sometimes have multiple gates open.

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