curlyoak Posted August 24, 2021 Report Share Posted August 24, 2021 When the duct work is done, are tools next? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted August 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2021 On 8/24/2021 at 11:52 AM, curlyoak said: When the duct work is done, are tools next? 90% of the duct work. then the electrical drops for the milling area and the tablesaw / router table. Then the machines ;-) We are suffering a work stoppage due to having to take care of something unrelated for a while. It is hard to stop when I am at this stage but I'll be back. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted September 3, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted September 3, 2021 I've only been able to do little things the last several days. Cut the holes in a couple of wire ways that will mount to the vertical drop areas for ducting and power. I left the attic light on overnight again. This should help with that. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted September 9, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 The doc says I am off light duty and can move to "medium" duty. I am also done with my PT which pretty much made every day useless for the last 2 weeks . . . sheesh! Moving on . . . I don't think I showed my super sophisticated drywall hole alignment jig that helped me space the holes for the custom hangers as well as keep things in line. Witness marks on the jig match up with the laser level lines to keep things somewhat true. The milling area consists of four machines, jointer, planer, bandsaw and drum sander. There will be a vertical array going up the middle of these machines that will provide power and dust collection. The caps are somewhat domed so I used the drum sander to make a flat spot on the "top" of the cap. I then bolt the cap to the floor and build the array upward from it. I am using these little sinkers. They use wedges above and below. The lower wedges are pulled toward the vertical center by the threads of the fastener. The upper wedges are pushed toward the vertical center by butting against the fixture that is being fastened. When this sort of surface to surface mounting is the order of the day, these little guys work great. I drop a plumb bob from the upper attachment point to find my spot on the floor below. . Drill a 1/2" hole of the proper length, drop in the sinker, and impact the cap in place. I have checked these port heights many times but they still look wrong to me. I guess I will check them yet again since it will be easy to adjust that prior to connecting to the overhead ducting. I'm sure they're right . . . I checked multiple times . . . I'm sure they're right . . . Grrrr. *** UPDATE *** All is well with the port heights 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 10, 2021 Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 Love the DC 'tree' idea, @gee-dub! Are you running conduit along side for the electical, or hanging drops from a receptacle in the ceiling? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted September 10, 2021 Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 I don’t recall what your ceiling height is but sure it’s more than 8’. Yours and @Chestnut You answered @Jonathan McCully with advise regarding his new shop. Would you advise Jonathan to go to 9’-10’ ceiling height. I would almost rather have a higher ceiling in my shop than extra sq. ft.. Well, almost. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan McCully Posted September 10, 2021 Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 3 hours ago, Coop said: I don’t recall what your ceiling height is but sure it’s more than 8’. Yours and @Chestnut You answered @Jonathan McCully with advise regarding his new shop. Would you advise Jonathan to go to 9’-10’ ceiling height. I would almost rather have a higher ceiling in my shop than extra sq. ft.. Well, almost. I was thinking 12' in mine, but that may be a bit overkill. 10' seems to be sufficient for sure. Definitely appreciate you guys leading me to this thread. I've gotten a number of good ideas from @gee-dub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 10, 2021 Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 Before moving into a small outbuilding to gain the advantage of some climate control, I worked in my garage, with 12' ceiling height. Nice to me able to swing long boards around without hitting anything, but 10' is more than enough. I do still keep my lumber stored in the garage, vertically. The extra height really helps in that regard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted September 10, 2021 Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 Nice thinking on the tree! I like that anchor design. What is the name of it? couldn't read it clearly. For future reference, there are flat ended caps. I've always heard them called "test caps". https://www.amazon.com/NDS-6P06-Solvent-Fitting-6-Inch/dp/B00L4AO506/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B00L4AO506&psc=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted September 10, 2021 Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 7 hours ago, Jonathan McCully said: I was thinking 12' in mine, but that may be a bit overkill. 10' seems to be sufficient for sure. Definitely appreciate you guys leading me to this thread. I've gotten a number of good ideas from @gee-dub I have 9 foot in my shop and 12 foot in my garage. 12 foot is too high and 9 foot seems perfect. 10 foot could be good as well but I'm not sure how the cost would pan out there. You'd have to run some calcs. The other oddball about going anything more than 8 foot is if you do any plywood walls (T1-11 or otherwise) you'll have a seam no matter what (unless you fidn 10 foot sheets). Don't go 8 foot. That said you'll bump you lights no matter how tall the ceiling is. I hit the lights in my garage with 12 foot ceilings. The reason I'd consider lower rather than higher is 3 reasons, cost, hvac, & access. With taller ceilings you'll have a lot more heat up high which will impact your heating and cooling (well in your case cooling). You don't realize how hard it is to access storage at 12 feet until your trying to lug some thing heavy to the top rung of a 6 foot ladder. Hence why I've made some storage on pulley systems in my garage. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted September 10, 2021 Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 On 9/3/2021 at 1:00 PM, gee-dub said: I left the attic light on overnight again. This should help with that. LOL you have no idea how many times I have left those lights on, this is on my list of upgrades! Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted September 10, 2021 Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 On 9/9/2021 at 8:36 PM, wtnhighlander said: Love the DC 'tree' idea, @gee-dub! Are you running conduit along side for the electrical. That's what I did in my shop works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted September 10, 2021 Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 On 9/10/2021 at 6:03 AM, Chestnut said: The other oddball about going anything more than 8 foot is if you do any plywood walls (T1-11 or otherwise) you'll have a seam no matter what I have thought about this some with my shop with walls that are 8' 10" and some that are higher because of the roof design. If I were to put T1-11 I think I would do it from the top down leaving the lowest part as is. Most of the reasons of using ply or T1-11 don't exist at floor level. And yes, no matter where or how high you put them, you will figure out a way to hit the lights. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted September 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 On 9/9/2021 at 6:36 PM, wtnhighlander said: Love the DC 'tree' idea, @gee-dub! Are you running conduit along side for the electical, or hanging drops from a receptacle in the ceiling? There will be a combination of liquid-tight and EMT. The flexible liquid-tight will be of a length to allow for some adjustment if I want to move things a bit. Here is an early version. On 9/9/2021 at 6:57 PM, Coop said: I don’t recall what your ceiling height is but sure it’s more than 8’. Yours and @Chestnut You answered @Jonathan McCully with advise regarding his new shop. Would you advise Jonathan to go to 9’-10’ ceiling height. I would almost rather have a higher ceiling in my shop than extra sq. ft.. Well, almost. The 10' ceiling was a 'gotta-have' on this build. There are some things that are mostly wrong for me (like a 6" jointer) and an 8' ceiling was mostly wrong for me. The 10' is mostly right. I did consider a boxed in open section at one end of the building at the peak of the roof line in order to store long stock vertically. This is a good example of something that would be cool but not useful enough when weighed against the structure to support it and the permanence of that decision. The 10' ceiling decision has proved out for me. Ducting and lighting do not interfere with each other and being used to an 8' ceiling, I have yet to smack anything . On 9/9/2021 at 10:44 PM, Jonathan McCully said: Definitely appreciate you guys leading me to this thread. I've gotten a number of good ideas from @gee-dub Glad to hear it. That's what the forums are for; I steal ideas from someone and then you get them from me and someone else will benefit from you On 9/10/2021 at 5:51 AM, Tom King said: Nice thinking on the tree! I like that anchor design. What is the name of it? couldn't read it clearly. For future reference, there are flat ended caps. I've always heard them called "test caps". https://www.amazon.com/NDS-6P06-Solvent-Fitting-6-Inch/dp/B00L4AO506/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B00L4AO506&psc=1 Thanks Tom. I found a couple flat end caps and may swap them out. Here's the sinkers. Just an FYI, the directions say to put the sinkers in the hole and tap with a hammer. I found that threading a fastener into the sinker and using it as a handle to place the sinker was more successful. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted September 11, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 I finished up the S-curve in the DC shed. The S-curve assembly was surprisingly stout once taped. Despite this I wanted some support in the event of an errant bump so I built a three point support. The little pieces of wood at the cyclone connection points were just temporary supports for the tubes of EMT while I was assembling. They serve no purpose now. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted September 12, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted September 12, 2021 It's funny . . . . . . these machines don't seem nearly as big as they did in the old shop. 4 1 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted September 12, 2021 Report Share Posted September 12, 2021 I believe with your new shop your productivity will be more. Up to a point, the more space the more productive you are. By adding tools does this mean the build is complete not counting setting up the shop. If so, how did you do on budget? My guess is you went over due to escalating material prices. And sometimes an upgrade gets in your face and you cant say no. Your new shop should keep a grin on your face for a long time. I think you are approaching the ultimate woodworking shop. Well done!!! Most all of us will be jealous. What is the tool on the left near the door? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted September 12, 2021 Report Share Posted September 12, 2021 On 9/12/2021 at 7:16 AM, curlyoak said: What is the tool on the left near the door? I am going to guess sanding mops... or milk shake mixers which every shop should have. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted September 12, 2021 Report Share Posted September 12, 2021 Thanks for the info on the anchors. Saved to favorites folder. I mainly use Greenlee ones that set flush with the surface, with a special Greenlee tool, but sometimes it would be better to set them deeper. The ones you used would be ideal for those situations. The good things about the ones set flush with the surface are that the hole does not have to be an exact depth, and you know what fastener lengths you need to start with. I never got on good with the pound in type. The hole needed to be the exactly correct depth, and you needed an assortment of different length machine screws to get a job finished. Using a machine screw for the insertion tool makes perfect sense. With something thin, to hold it at the depth you want, the exact desired depth should be easy to get. I was first thinking about using a piece of foam under it, but the machine screw to start it is better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted September 12, 2021 Report Share Posted September 12, 2021 Shop looks great!! Have you done any posts on your buffing station? I would like more info on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted September 12, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted September 12, 2021 On 9/12/2021 at 7:16 AM, curlyoak said: What is the tool on the left near the door? That is the Depelter Quattro. Multiple grits of sanding mops but I do have the quick-change milkshake heads on order . On 9/12/2021 at 10:11 AM, pkinneb said: Shop looks great!! Have you done any posts on your buffing station? I would like more info on that. I'm such a chatterbox I think I must have. Let me check . . . . apparently not . Essentially it is two long-arm buffing mandrels on a fixture of my design that spins both with one motor. The motor is kicked on and off with a foot pedal. Although on medical restrictions as to weight and effort for a while yet I was able to do some more things thanks to a hydraulic lifting table and simple levers and blocks. I will have vac setups like this on opposite walls. This one is primarily for tool extraction. The other one will serve the bench, stock breakdown and assembly areas. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted September 13, 2021 Report Share Posted September 13, 2021 Isn’t it amazing how one can seem to make do, due to medical restrictions or just not having a second or third person around to help! Just get into that MacGyver mode! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted September 14, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted September 14, 2021 Amen Coop. I did manage to get the cleats on the jig wall yesterday by using a variety of MacGyver methods. Due to all sorts of unexpected things, the appearance of COVID not the least of them, the new shop build has taken way longer than I could have ever expected. This means things have been moved around, moved again, and again. I have jigs in all sorts of places and will experience a Christmas-like effect as I stumble across them now that I am finally moving in. The point of all that is that this pic shows jigs that I will keep on this wall and others that are just for example as I do not use them regularly. I just threw up those that I could lay my hands on easily to demonstrate what I am trying to do here. This wall is perpendicular to the tablesaw and router table area. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted September 14, 2021 Report Share Posted September 14, 2021 gee-dub, you could start a sideline business designing other people's shops. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted September 15, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted September 15, 2021 I unloaded the plane till so it could be moved. It is depressing to see this much dust on these things. Not that they don't normally get dusty . . . it's just that this is the wrong kind of dust ;-) These cleats will be hidden by the fixture. You can see that they have been used and re-used a few times. Helpful tip for aligning sections of cleat when a single piece is not used. There is cleat material running the full width of this fixture. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.