Chest of drawers


shaneymack

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Looking really nice, great job you're doing there Shane!

Looking good Shane. 

Thanks guys!

Those drawers look great.  I really like the integrated guide on the bottom of each drawer.  I have to draw it out and want to use it with my next project that has drawers.

Thanks ! It took a little figuring out to get it just right but it works great. I was going to dovetail the front part of the runner into the bottom of the drawer front but realised that would have taken too much time. I have to get to making Christmas gifts soon. Thirty seconds with the df700 and bada boom bada bing- runner attached. 

 

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Looking good Shane. What did you think of the D4R?

Thanks Mike. The D4R works well. I had alot of problems with the VRS. I was back and forth with a grumpy guy from Leigh for a few weeks. Finally spoke to someone else and he helped me resolve the problem and all is well now. 

That's looking fantastic Shane!

How deep is the lower drawer? Did you need a DT jig larger than 12"?

Did you dove tail the drawer parts and then slice a bit off the backs so the bottoms can slide in?

Thanks Dave. 

The bottom drawer is 9 1/2" i think. A 12" jig would suffice for this job. 

The back of the drawers are asymmetric dovetail done of the D4R. I did not cut anything out. 

Shane this is looking fantastic.  Great job with the drawers, I know you had a few hiccups with the D4R but they look great.

Thanks Brian. Im happy to finally have spoken to someone at Leigh who knew exactly what the issue was and it should be good now.

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Shaney, does your drawer guide have a tongue that slips in to the groove on the box? I'm curious how you affixed it to the front side? I amagine glue would be enough as the panels hold it centered, but curious if you pinned it as well so it doesn't have a chance to move and bind.

Also, is your plan to rabbet the bottom panels to the groove so they are flush with the top of the guide and how do you plan to affix those where they meet the guide?

Edited by Janello
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Shaney, does your drawer guide have a tongue that slips in to the groove on the box? I'm curious how you affixed it to the front side? I amagine glue would be enough as the panels hold it centered, but curious if you pinned it as well so it doesn't have a chance to move and bind.

Also, is your plan to rabbet the bottom panels to the groove so they are flush with the top of the guide and how do you plan to affix those where they meet the guide?

The slide is dominoed into the front of the drawer. My original plan was to dovetail in to the front,(the slide having the tail and the drawer front having the socket) but it is already taking too long, so last minute I said screw it and grabbed the domino. I would not trust glue alone on the end grain. At the very least it needs to have a tenon to slide into the groove  like you mentioned. 

The panels will not be flush with the slide, it will be proud 1/4". I find that to be more aesthetically pleasing than having a small gap on either side of the slide where the poplar panel ends and the cherry slide starts. Being drawers for clothing the 1/4" should not matter.  

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Or you could make your bottom panels 1/4'' thicker and make a rabbet on all the sides except the one that meets the slide. Unless you already glued that domino, that is!

I could but like I was saying in my previous post that would leave a slight gap where the panel ends and the cherry slide starts on either side. I want the panel to be fully inserted into the groove on the slide. I find this more visually appealing. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
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I could but like I was saying in my previous post that would leave a slight gap where the panel ends and the cherry slide starts on either side. I want the panel to be fully inserted into the groove on the slide. I find this more visually appealing. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Duh! I just saw that groove... also Janello's post.... Yeah, I think you're right! Will look better the way you planned it.

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Thanks Mike. The D4R works well. I had alot of problems with the VRS. I was back and forth with a grumpy guy from Leigh for a few weeks. Finally spoke to someone else and he helped me resolve the problem and all is well now. 

Shane, apologies if you addressed this elsewhere on the site, but can you elaborate a bit more on the fix for the VRS?  I found it so poor that I just use the leigh jig sans VRS and then vacuum up afterwards.  Thanks bud.

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Shane, apologies if you addressed this elsewhere on the site, but can you elaborate a bit more on the fix for the VRS?  I found it so poor that I just use the leigh jig sans VRS and then vacuum up afterwards.  Thanks bud.

 

Hey Matt, I have vented about this a few times in the chat room but not on the forum. 

The dovetail jig itself is great. My issues were directly related to the Vrs. When doing half blind dovetails I was getting  getting very inconsistent results. I would do one test and it would be good, try one more time and get 1/32" gap between the end of the tails and the socket.  I spoke with Leigh the first time and sent photos and his response was that he had been there for thirty years and had never seen this problem. He asked me to measure the length of the tails vs the depth of the tail sockets. It was now clear that the sockets were being routed deeper that the tails. 

I called him back with these results and we went over a bunch of other things but everything was setup properly. He then asked me to double check if the VRS was flush with the finger assembly. I did that while on the phone with him and it was a strong 1/16" higher than the fingers. I felt pretty stupid as i am extremely meticulous and was 100% sure it was setup perfectly flush. 

After getting off the phone with him, i set the VRS flush with the fingers and did a test. The result, pretty good. Still had a hairline gap but at this point I was going to accept that. I took a photo and sent it to the guy at Leigh and said thanks.

Since everything seemed fine with the jig i started doing a drawer. After routing pins and tails I dry fit the drawer. Again, I had a 1/32" gap between the end of the tails and the sockets. I just about lost my mind at this point. It was Saturday morning and Leigh was closed untill Monday. 

At this point I was curious so I checked to see if the VRS was flush with the finger assembly. Again, it was 1/16" higher.  Seriously thought I was losing it at this point so I called my wife into the shop. I setup the VRS once again with her watching. She held the engineers square at both ends as I took photos. It was once again setup perfectly. I moved the finger assembly up and down once like I would have swapping pins/tails boards. I checked the height again and the VRS had moved again!!!! I was really annoyed but kind happy at the same time that I wasn't crazy and that I had actually set it up correctly the very first time. 

So once again i called the same grumpy guy at Leigh and he had no idea what was causing it but was still giving me attitude like I was an idiot and it was my fault. All he could recommend I do was to change the 90 degree brackets that came with the jig to the spare ones that came with the VRS. I got off the phone with him and did that. It didnt do anything and they were closed at this point so i couldn't call back.

I was too frustrated for the rest of the week to deal with it and couldn't really get out to the shop untill Friday. I left work early to deal with it. I called them when I got home and the grumpy guy was not working that day so they would have another guy call me back.  About 20 minutes later the other guy called me. I explained the whole situation to him. He listened and then said  that you will have this problem if you don't pull down hard on the front of the VRS bracket as you tighten the screw. I said thats it??He said yes its a simple solution. I asked him how in the world that the Leigh industries main tech guy had no idea about this. He said he didn't know and would tell him. He referred me to picture #10 in the VRS manual and it shows the guy pulling down on the bracket at the front.

So back to the jig i went and did as he said.  Since then it does seem to move a bit but it never seems to go higher than the finger assembly which is what causes the problem. 

I have a hard time understanding how such an important setup detail can easily go missed because it is not as clear as it should be. I also can't understand that if it is such an important detail then how could their tech guy that has been there for 30 years have no clue. 

So long story to say that I really hated this jig for a couple weeks all for a stupid little detail. It also didnt help that the tech guy was clearly getting annoyed with me and starting to treat me like I was some sort of problem client. 

My review;

Leigh dovetail jig 9/10

VRS 4/10

Leigh tech supprt 2/10

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I never used the Leigh and I know a lot of reviews put it above the Omnijig but my Omnijig has never let me down. Dust collection is superb, the rail that is similar to the VRS never moves (although I had to shim it slightly) and I get repeated perfection. I believe the OmniJig can do more as well. Two drawbacks to the Omnijig from my findings through reading comparisons. It is more finicky to set up, and parts are not as readily available. Although I never had a huge issue getting parts, just need to know where to look. 

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