Traditional Shaker Timbers


lewisc

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My next project is going to be this shaker style table. I'm not clued up on American timbers so I'm not sure what timber it's made with and he doesn't mention it in the article. Any ideas?

I've got access to Australia Timbers - Jarrah, Spotted Gum, Tassie Oak, Blackwood and a few more that I like working with but I'm trying to be as traditional as possible given the circumstances. 

I've also got access to another supplier who has a great range of imported timber (i've attached his price list, he sells by the metre).  What would you consider to be a traditional shaker timber?

Thanks!

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16 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

curly maple Shaker table

Here is the one I made pretty much all by hand. 

1379496_10202129099577162_684745272_n.jp

I guess the point is, use what you want. Experiment with different woods, or match the table to something you have already. I've also made these out of mahogany. I prefer the maple though.

 

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Help me out, what are the units of measurement they are using to provide pricing? For the 4/4 Cherry, i assume we are looking at a 4/4 thick board that is 5" wide and one meter long for $12.45? Oddly enough, I think that works out to be about a bdft. If you are buying narrow cherry boards for $12.45 a bdft, use something local! I think jarrah might be somewhat close to cherry. What do the local timbers retail for?

 

This is just me, but i think shipping logs internationally is something woodworkers should not condone. It's incredibly unsustainable, and each continent has spectacular species in their own right. Every woodworker covets each other's domestics. You are paying out the nose for my cherry, and i am paying out the nose for bubinga. Im all for special projects or accents, but i want the bulk of my work to utilize domestics. My vote is for local species for your shaker projects. 

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10 hours ago, Pwk5017 said:

Help me out, what are the units of measurement they are using to provide pricing? For the 4/4 Cherry, i assume we are looking at a 4/4 thick board that is 5" wide and one meter long for $12.45? Oddly enough, I think that works out to be about a bdft. If you are buying narrow cherry boards for $12.45 a bdft, use something local! I think jarrah might be somewhat close to cherry. What do the local timbers retail for?

 

I'm still wrapping my head around the imperial terms. Converting plan sizes has become a bit easier over time. How much would cherry sell for on average?

If I was to buy dressed timber say 140mmx19x1m (5.5"x 3/4" x 40"), depending on species, the cheaper hardwood (Tasmanian Oak, Victorian Ash) would be around $6 per metre. That's if I buy a pack of timber. Off the rack, it would sell for around $15 per metre. Again, If I buy a small pack of furniture grade Jarrah, it would be about $10 per metre and double that off the rack.

 

10 hours ago, Pwk5017 said:

This is just me, but i think shipping logs internationally is something woodworkers should not condone. It's incredibly unsustainable, and each continent has spectacular species in their own right. Every woodworker covets each other's domestics. You are paying out the nose for my cherry, and i am paying out the nose for bubinga. Im all for special projects or accents, but i want the bulk of my work to utilize domestics. My vote is for local species for your shaker projects. 

I understand this. I'm very envious of all the timbers I see around the world - I know we have a great selection here but I just can't help wanting to try these exotic (for me) timbers.

 

Thank you all for your suggestions. I'll probably have to make a few of different timbers!

 

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In the US hardwoods are typically sold by the "board foot", which is a total volume equivalent to 1 inch thick and 1 foot by 1 foot, or a total of 144 cubic inches.  At my local hardwood dealer, 4/4 cherry (1 inch thick), average width (say, under 12"), the price is about USD $6.00 per board foot (hit or miss planed 2 sides)

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I recall Roy Underhill stating that Shakers used locally available woods, but only the clearest, defect-free boards. Simple designs, using the most perfect material they could get. A lot of Shaker furniture is simple pine, but absolutely clear. You won't find any epoxy-stabilized "character" in a true Shaker piece.

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