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Why are you talking about our house? I just started it in 1980. -
If you can feel certain it is out of square because of the face frame, then I would remove the face frame. A pain in the ass. And got to be careful of the edge of the glue joint. Maybe remove most of it in some manner then the last 1/16th with a router and straight edge...Drastic stuff like that needs to be slept on with a lot of inner conversations. There is a lot of very good work up to this point. I think with a lot of thought and effort it could be removed. The underlying work is worth the effort. I feel that is the main question... -
Fixed an outlet in our outdoor closet. The guys who added insulation totally botched where the hole for the ceiling light went so they just pulled the romex over to the hole and covered it up. Who needs a box? My wife ran a load of laundry yesterday but left something in the sink and sent loads of water through the basement. I pulled up some floor planks and have a bunch of fans going. We vacuumed and used towels to absorb all the water we could. Time to figure out what I need to do to plumb the washer into a drain pipe, not the sink. -
Ah, the face frame is out of square too, not just the carcass. Yeah, I see now. Never mind. -
Having this happen is disappointing but some variation of it happens to us all at some point. I normally make my inset door and drawer fronts a tight fit or a bit oversize. This lets me fit them to the opening. I agree that at this scale a slightly out of square door made to fit the opening would be pretty invisible unless you point it out. You may need a little more generous reveal to allow the hinges to work correctly. You can also taper an edge of the door frame, front to back, if the swing is a problem at a given location. On smaller cabinets I tend to go for a smaller reveal and will taper the edge opposite the hinges as a normal part of the door fitting.
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