Cutting black pipe on a chop saw


Matt Truiano

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I was asked to build a computer desk and the client wants the legs to be made out of 3/4" black pipe. The amount of "pieces" he wants is going to be extremely expensive to buy nipples of various sizes. Has anyone ever put a metal cutting wheel in a chop saw meant for wood to cut black pipe? Just curious if its worth the money for the blade for this one project. what should i expect as far as the finished cut. will it shoot shrapnel all over me and the shop? spark like all hell?

 

Also does anyone have any suggestions on improving the design. Whats not included in the sketchup file...there will be T fittings and cross bars along the bottom sections of pipe for more stability. Either flanges or end caps on the bottom to meet the floor. Flanges on the underside of the main desk top. The rest of the pipe will be recessed in 1/4" deep holes where it meets the wood. 

doug desk.jpg

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Yes I have but, I don't really consider a chop saw to be a furniture making tool so I am OK with it.  I drag the CMS out of the shed if I have to trim out a bathroom or (with an abrasive blade) cut up some steel.  I wouldn't use a CMS to cut metal full time and I wouldn't want to deal with threading if that is part of your build.  Also, cover or replace any plastic parts as the hot spoil will pock the heck out of it.  I used some hardboard to replace the plastic throat plate for example.

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First, do you have a way to thread the cut ends, so your flanges, caps, and couplers can attach?

 

Second, an abrasive blade will work, but will make a horrible mess. Personally, I would not want to cut metal on the same saw I use for wood, because of cross-contamination.

 

Rather than putting a metal cutting blade on the chop saw, I'd consider buying the $99 metal cutting band saw from Harbor Freight.

 

 

https://m.harborfreight.com/power-tools/band-saws/10-amp-deep-cut-variable-speed-band-saw-kit-63444.html

 

 

Or a Milwaukee bandsaw, if you expect to do much more metal work.

 

 

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/2076460811637358195?lsf=seller:8740,store:17646325795914335301&prds=oid:3320366050521652255&q=milwaulkee+portable+band+saw&hl=en&ei=dVY9WZbyM4iEmQGNrq3oCg&lsft=cm_mmc%3DShopping-_-LIAs-_-D25T-_-100014798&lsft=gclid:CM_70pGDttQCFZO1wAodVZkLGw

 

 

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Ugh.  That is not something I would do with my Kapex.  I'd hesitate to do it with my beater Dewalt and I hardly care at all about that thing.  If for no other reason, horrible metal dust mess everywhere.  Metal working...not for me.  I'll stick with wood.

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I recently got a cheap Porter Cable chop saw for rough cutting metal, but if I was going to have to thread all my cuts I would just buy the correct size threaded pipe for the project. Chopping and threading all that pipe will eat up hours(and hours) of time.

Some rental centers have pipe threading set-ups, so you may not have to buy that equipment.

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35 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said:

 

 

First, do you have a way to thread the cut ends, so your flanges, caps, and couplers can attach?

 

 

Second, an abrasive blade will work, but will make a horrible mess. Personally, I would not want to cut metal on the same saw I use for wood, because of cross-contamination.

 

 

Rather than putting a metal cutting blade on the chop saw, I'd consider buying the $99 metal cutting band saw from Harbor Freight.

 

 

 

 

https://m.harborfreight.com/power-tools/band-saws/10-amp-deep-cut-variable-speed-band-saw-kit-63444.html

 

 

 

 

Or a Milwaukee bandsaw, if you expect to do much more metal work.

 

 

 

 

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/2076460811637358195?lsf=seller:8740,store:17646325795914335301&prds=oid:3320366050521652255&q=milwaulkee+portable+band+saw&hl=en&ei=dVY9WZbyM4iEmQGNrq3oCg&lsft=cm_mmc%3DShopping-_-LIAs-_-D25T-_-100014798&lsft=gclid:CM_70pGDttQCFZO1wAodVZkLGw

 

 

Thats actually a great idea. I didn't consider the bandsaw option. I don't see myself doing much metal work so the Harbor Freight option might be best. 

 

Yes I have access to a pipe threader.

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18 minutes ago, davewyo said:

I recently got a cheap Porter Cable chop saw for rough cutting metal, but if I was going to have to thread all my cuts I would just buy the correct size threaded pipe for the project. Chopping and threading all that pipe will eat up hours(and hours) of time.

Some rental centers have pipe threading set-ups, so you may not have to buy that equipment.

luckily the guy asking for the desk is helping with the build so ultimately i can send him home with the cut pipe and the threader and let him do all the tedious work. 

 

How well does the porter cable chop saw work?

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11 minutes ago, Matt Truiano said:

How well does the porter cable chop saw work?

It's pretty slow going with an abrasive wheel. You have to take it easy or you bog down the saw and/or wear out the disc prematurely. A disc comes with the saw and it says Porter Cable on there, but I'm not very impressed with the cutting power or the finish of the cut. I got some Makita discs to see if they do a better job.

I bet a band saw would give a cleaner cut.

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Buy it from Home Depot, and they will cut it to length, and thread the ends for you.  It's not easy making decent looking threads on that pipe without the big machine.  Home Depot has one where they sell the pipe.

It's what I do when I'm installing gas piping, and get down to the last few pieces that aren't stock lengths. Normally, they don't even charge for it if you buy the pipe from them, but I'm not sure about multiple pieces.

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If you have access to a threader, the same source should have a cutter, I would think.

 

When using a tubing-style pipe cutter, consider going with rigid metallic conduit, instead of black pipe. It is softer, usually cheaper, and has the same thread sizes. I would especially consider it if you plan to paint the pipe anyway, because black pipe usually has a sticky rust inhibitor on it that should be removed prior to painting.

 

One of these:

https://www.zoro.com/general-hvy-duty-tube-cutter-14-to-1-58in-cap-125/i/G0338147/?gclid=CJfc0vK8ttQCFQ2TaQodedwFIA

from Home Depot, will successfully cut 3/4" rigid conduit, at least for a while. I doubt it would make a dent in black pipe. Pro Tip: Don't rush the cut. Tightening the knob too much between turns will destroy the cutter wheel bearing.

DAMHIK

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2 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

 

When using a tubing-style pipe cutter, consider going with rigid metallic conduit, instead of black pipe. It is softer, usually cheaper, and has the same thread sizes. I would especially consider it if you plan to paint the pipe anyway, because black pipe usually has a sticky rust inhibitor on it that should be removed prior to painting.

 

My thought was to leave the pipe the way it came and not paint it.  Is that not recommended?

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My thought was to leave the pipe the way it came and not paint it.  Is that not recommended?

 

At the very least you need to remove the waxy oil from the pipe. One smudge of the oil on your finger will leave marks on everything you touch for days. Transfer that same oil to your clients carpet or clothes and you be out of pocket for their cleaning bill.

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On 6/11/2017 at 9:09 AM, RichardA said:

A  hack saw would give a clean cut, and build your upper arms as well.

I was going to wonder when this fine piece of knowledge would show up.  

I wouldn't buy a hundred plus dollar tool, that does one job which obviously isn't your core competency and if from HF, will never work after the first job. 

Hack saw and blade. Good tunes, done.

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I occasionally do stuff with black pipe for modifying the heating system in our home. I cut the pipe with a hack saw and thread the ends with a 1950s-era tool I inherited from my grandfather, who was a plumber. This approach works well on half-inch, three-quarter and 1 inch pipes.

Last year I found some fittings in our house are an old thread standard not compatible with anything available now, and which don't match my tool. My uncle (who worked with my grandfather back in the day) said they used to use that thread but changed the cutters in the tool to suit the more "modern" thread in 1961. The old cutters had been sitting on a shelf in the shed since then so I was able to retrieve those and cut the threads I needed. Try doing that at a big box store.

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