Matt Truiano Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 I was asked to build a computer desk and the client wants the legs to be made out of 3/4" black pipe. The amount of "pieces" he wants is going to be extremely expensive to buy nipples of various sizes. Has anyone ever put a metal cutting wheel in a chop saw meant for wood to cut black pipe? Just curious if its worth the money for the blade for this one project. what should i expect as far as the finished cut. will it shoot shrapnel all over me and the shop? spark like all hell? Also does anyone have any suggestions on improving the design. Whats not included in the sketchup file...there will be T fittings and cross bars along the bottom sections of pipe for more stability. Either flanges or end caps on the bottom to meet the floor. Flanges on the underside of the main desk top. The rest of the pipe will be recessed in 1/4" deep holes where it meets the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 Yes I have but, I don't really consider a chop saw to be a furniture making tool so I am OK with it. I drag the CMS out of the shed if I have to trim out a bathroom or (with an abrasive blade) cut up some steel. I wouldn't use a CMS to cut metal full time and I wouldn't want to deal with threading if that is part of your build. Also, cover or replace any plastic parts as the hot spoil will pock the heck out of it. I used some hardboard to replace the plastic throat plate for example. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 First, do you have a way to thread the cut ends, so your flanges, caps, and couplers can attach? Second, an abrasive blade will work, but will make a horrible mess. Personally, I would not want to cut metal on the same saw I use for wood, because of cross-contamination. Rather than putting a metal cutting blade on the chop saw, I'd consider buying the $99 metal cutting band saw from Harbor Freight. https://m.harborfreight.com/power-tools/band-saws/10-amp-deep-cut-variable-speed-band-saw-kit-63444.html Or a Milwaukee bandsaw, if you expect to do much more metal work. https://www.google.com/shopping/product/2076460811637358195?lsf=seller:8740,store:17646325795914335301&prds=oid:3320366050521652255&q=milwaulkee+portable+band+saw&hl=en&ei=dVY9WZbyM4iEmQGNrq3oCg&lsft=cm_mmc%3DShopping-_-LIAs-_-D25T-_-100014798&lsft=gclid:CM_70pGDttQCFZO1wAodVZkLGw 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 Ugh. That is not something I would do with my Kapex. I'd hesitate to do it with my beater Dewalt and I hardly care at all about that thing. If for no other reason, horrible metal dust mess everywhere. Metal working...not for me. I'll stick with wood. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 Yikes - I used my Bosch saw to cut aluminum before, but I would never go for iron pipe. Get the HD guys to cut and thread it for you. Pass the cost onto the client. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 I recently got a cheap Porter Cable chop saw for rough cutting metal, but if I was going to have to thread all my cuts I would just buy the correct size threaded pipe for the project. Chopping and threading all that pipe will eat up hours(and hours) of time. Some rental centers have pipe threading set-ups, so you may not have to buy that equipment. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Truiano Posted June 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 35 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: First, do you have a way to thread the cut ends, so your flanges, caps, and couplers can attach? Second, an abrasive blade will work, but will make a horrible mess. Personally, I would not want to cut metal on the same saw I use for wood, because of cross-contamination. Rather than putting a metal cutting blade on the chop saw, I'd consider buying the $99 metal cutting band saw from Harbor Freight. https://m.harborfreight.com/power-tools/band-saws/10-amp-deep-cut-variable-speed-band-saw-kit-63444.html Or a Milwaukee bandsaw, if you expect to do much more metal work. https://www.google.com/shopping/product/2076460811637358195?lsf=seller:8740,store:17646325795914335301&prds=oid:3320366050521652255&q=milwaulkee+portable+band+saw&hl=en&ei=dVY9WZbyM4iEmQGNrq3oCg&lsft=cm_mmc%3DShopping-_-LIAs-_-D25T-_-100014798&lsft=gclid:CM_70pGDttQCFZO1wAodVZkLGw Thats actually a great idea. I didn't consider the bandsaw option. I don't see myself doing much metal work so the Harbor Freight option might be best. Yes I have access to a pipe threader. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Truiano Posted June 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 18 minutes ago, davewyo said: I recently got a cheap Porter Cable chop saw for rough cutting metal, but if I was going to have to thread all my cuts I would just buy the correct size threaded pipe for the project. Chopping and threading all that pipe will eat up hours(and hours) of time. Some rental centers have pipe threading set-ups, so you may not have to buy that equipment. luckily the guy asking for the desk is helping with the build so ultimately i can send him home with the cut pipe and the threader and let him do all the tedious work. How well does the porter cable chop saw work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 11 minutes ago, Matt Truiano said: How well does the porter cable chop saw work? It's pretty slow going with an abrasive wheel. You have to take it easy or you bog down the saw and/or wear out the disc prematurely. A disc comes with the saw and it says Porter Cable on there, but I'm not very impressed with the cutting power or the finish of the cut. I got some Makita discs to see if they do a better job. I bet a band saw would give a cleaner cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post RichardA Posted June 11, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 A hack saw would give a clean cut, and build your upper arms as well. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 Buy it from Home Depot, and they will cut it to length, and thread the ends for you. It's not easy making decent looking threads on that pipe without the big machine. Home Depot has one where they sell the pipe. It's what I do when I'm installing gas piping, and get down to the last few pieces that aren't stock lengths. Normally, they don't even charge for it if you buy the pipe from them, but I'm not sure about multiple pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 Look into a pipe cutter. Like a copper tubing cutter but heavier built. Might be able to rent one ! Quiet and no metal shavings flying. You know you can mark and cut more accurately than the guy at Depot will ! https://t.harborfreight.com/no-2-pipe-cutter-62243.html 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 If you have access to a threader, the same source should have a cutter, I would think. When using a tubing-style pipe cutter, consider going with rigid metallic conduit, instead of black pipe. It is softer, usually cheaper, and has the same thread sizes. I would especially consider it if you plan to paint the pipe anyway, because black pipe usually has a sticky rust inhibitor on it that should be removed prior to painting. One of these: https://www.zoro.com/general-hvy-duty-tube-cutter-14-to-1-58in-cap-125/i/G0338147/?gclid=CJfc0vK8ttQCFQ2TaQodedwFIA from Home Depot, will successfully cut 3/4" rigid conduit, at least for a while. I doubt it would make a dent in black pipe. Pro Tip: Don't rush the cut. Tightening the knob too much between turns will destroy the cutter wheel bearing. DAMHIK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bankstick Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 You should have a plumbing supply house or one of the big box stores would cut ant thread it for you. I worked at Lowe's and recall seeing guys threading pipe for customers. Or check with a local plumber. No sense in buying something that might not be used for years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Truiano Posted June 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 2 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: When using a tubing-style pipe cutter, consider going with rigid metallic conduit, instead of black pipe. It is softer, usually cheaper, and has the same thread sizes. I would especially consider it if you plan to paint the pipe anyway, because black pipe usually has a sticky rust inhibitor on it that should be removed prior to painting. My thought was to leave the pipe the way it came and not paint it. Is that not recommended? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 If you clamp carefully to not marr the black coating it looks fine to me for that " industrial " look. I drilled a hole in a wood block the width of the vise jaws and bandsawed it in half. Then you don't have to waste any time painting . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSouthWoodCraft Posted June 12, 2017 Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 My thought was to leave the pipe the way it came and not paint it. Is that not recommended? At the very least you need to remove the waxy oil from the pipe. One smudge of the oil on your finger will leave marks on everything you touch for days. Transfer that same oil to your clients carpet or clothes and you be out of pocket for their cleaning bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted June 12, 2017 Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 Every Ace Hardware I have bought black pipe from would cut and thread it at no charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 12, 2017 Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 Matt, if you're close by, and what are the odds, I'll cut and thread it for you, for a six pack or less. Where are you located? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Truiano Posted June 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 9 hours ago, K Cooper said: Matt, if you're close by, and what are the odds, I'll cut and thread it for you, for a six pack or less. Where are you located? That's awesome. I'm right outside NYC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted June 12, 2017 Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 Thats a great deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tom King Posted June 13, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 Maybe I wasn't clear It's really DUMB to buy tools to thread pipe with!!! Plumbers don't even buy those tools these days, unless they work with it every day like those who install sprinkler systems in commercial buildings. I like Home Depot for this because their machines get little use, and are like new. The pipe is clamped in the machine, and the machine cuts it. I always carry work gloves in, so I don't even get my hands dirty, and mark the pipe myself. They do it right there in the aisleway, and any idiot can do it to my mark, or they cut another piece (never had this happen-they are glad for me to help). I didn't know much about plumbing when I got my license in 1975, even though I got a perfect score on the test, and finished 20 minutes ahead of the other hundred and some people taking the test. SInce then, I've learned a lot, and gained a fair amount of experience. If I was building something using pipe flanges that it mattered that the pipe didn't get chewed up, I'd make a couple of spanner wrenches for tightening from the back of the flanges using the screw holes in the flanges. A strap wrench can tighten the lower legs that only have a flange on one end. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted June 13, 2017 Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 FWIW, you could likely source nipples for most everything up to 18". The cost would be a touch higher, but the consistency would be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted June 13, 2017 Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 On 6/11/2017 at 9:09 AM, RichardA said: A hack saw would give a clean cut, and build your upper arms as well. I was going to wonder when this fine piece of knowledge would show up. I wouldn't buy a hundred plus dollar tool, that does one job which obviously isn't your core competency and if from HF, will never work after the first job. Hack saw and blade. Good tunes, done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wood Basher Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 I occasionally do stuff with black pipe for modifying the heating system in our home. I cut the pipe with a hack saw and thread the ends with a 1950s-era tool I inherited from my grandfather, who was a plumber. This approach works well on half-inch, three-quarter and 1 inch pipes. Last year I found some fittings in our house are an old thread standard not compatible with anything available now, and which don't match my tool. My uncle (who worked with my grandfather back in the day) said they used to use that thread but changed the cutters in the tool to suit the more "modern" thread in 1961. The old cutters had been sitting on a shelf in the shed since then so I was able to retrieve those and cut the threads I needed. Try doing that at a big box store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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