new2woodwrk

What did you do today?

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1 hour ago, Mark J said:

That looks like a great time.  The Gidgee looks beautifulm. Does it work well?

Probably not but not sure as I've never used it. It's hard though - up there with the hardest timbers I believe.  https://www.prfirewood.com/premium-range/charcoal/about-gidgee-wood.html

Checkout HNT Gordon Planes. They use Gidgee for the plane body. https://hntgordon.com.au/

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On 3/6/2020 at 5:21 PM, Chip Sawdust said:

 

Next model has arrived!

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Chip Sawdust - do you put these together for gifts or do you collect them? I don’t have any plastic models like this but I do collect old auto carriers. Some of the ones I have are made by ERTL, Marx, Structo, Wyandotte, of course there is Tonka. I have some from the 1940’s. 

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26 minutes ago, MJC said:

Chip Sawdust - do you put these together for gifts or do you collect them? I don’t have any plastic models like this but I do collect old auto carriers. Some of the ones I have are made by ERTL, Marx, Structo, Wyandotte, of course there is Tonka. I have some from the 1940’s. 

I have quite a collection but I also give them away. Most recently I gave away the C-47 and the A-10. This one is a keeper though as I’ve always been a Ferrari fan and I’ll build this one to replicate Schumi’s 2001 French Grand Prix winner. I’m not familiar with the model makers you listed. I didn’t know Tonga ever made modes, although I had their toys as a kid. 
Love your Z06 by the way :)  Mine is a C4 Z51... daily driver. 

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1 hour ago, Chip Sawdust said:

I have quite a collection but I also give them away. Most recently I gave away the C-47 and the A-10. This one is a keeper though as I’ve always been a Ferrari fan and I’ll build this one to replicate Schumi’s 2001 French Grand Prix winner. I’m not familiar with the model makers you listed. I didn’t know Tonga ever made modes, although I had their toys as a kid. 
Love your Z06 by the way :)  Mine is a C4 Z51... daily driver. 

I don’t know that they made models either. I have tin and steel toy trucks. I have some others that are cast that we’re made by a company outside of Chicago named Midgetoy Company. Here is a picture of a few I have. I took these out of my office in Chicago and have them sitting in our theater room for now. My wife keeps telling me she is gonna do something with them if I don’t (whatever that means) lol. I told her to just think of it as a museum but she can’t see it.

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Wow! You have enough to start a museum! I have a few old Hot Wheels downstairs... and one Matchbox :) 

I painted racing stripes on the Corvette way back then, and somewhere along the line it lost a rear wheel...

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4 hours ago, Chip Sawdust said:

Wow! You have enough to start a museum! I have a few old Hot Wheels downstairs... and one Matchbox :) 

I painted racing stripes on the Corvette way back then, and somewhere along the line it lost a rear wheel...

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Those are cool.

Yeah I have a few. What you see is only a fraction of what I have. 

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I don't know anything about tractors but sounds like it was a win all the way around.

You saved money, tractor is almost finished, you found things that weren't fixed right the first time and corrected them, new tool box, new tools....the list is getting long here.

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The tractor went right together this morning, and we torqued every bolt holding it together correctly.

Then we started with hooking up the external hydraulic lines.............................   The first nut was distorted, where someone had used an adjustable wrench on it, and not only distorted it from side to side, but rounded off the corners.  I hadn't noticed this when taking them apart, I guess because my wrench must have fit on the first flats I put it on to loosen it.  I had never seen line wrenches (flare nut) this big, so didn't even know that they existed.

  I got that first connection together, but then the next one was worse.  I decided to stop wasting time on them, went to the house, and ordered all new lines.  One had been twisted too much, and closed down a lot of the cross sectional area of the line anyway.

Then I asked Google to find a 1-1/4" flare nut wrench.   I should have known, Amazon was at the top of the list. 

The new lines will be put on properly, and if I ever have to work on them again, not only will they be okay, but I'll have the right tools for the job.

I need this style for one connection anyway, and the crowfoot will work fine on the others too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005VNLH6C/?coliid=I1IVWA3B6SAFH1&colid=2P8GBP5SU4LS7&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

here's the diagram, with part numbers:   https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/79943/referrer/navigation/pgId/250406

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22 minutes ago, RichardA said:

Not a lot of flame in those pieces.

This was the part of the tree that was dead standing. Three was a lot of ants and spalting. We'll see what's in the other logs this weekend.

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13 minutes ago, Tom King said:

Looks like it made a nice, clean cut.  What chain are you using?

I must admit i know little about chains. I told the guy at the shop what i was doing and he handed me 2 of these.

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He wanted to sell me a bigger bar, I should have listened to him. The 25" is really nice for bucking and felling though so I will use it but i can see myself buying a 32" bar really soon I'll have to do some math to see if a 36" will fit If i leave the spiky things on the saw. (sorry i don't remember terms)

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Baileysonline sells ripping chain.  You need to know the size, and number of links.  Looking at the chain box, you see 3/8, .050, and 84 is the number of links.  That bar will handle other chains than the 3/8's, as long as you stick with the .050, but you would have to change the drive sprocket.   You don't want to run a bigger ripping chain than 3/8, .050 anyway.  

When you shop for chains, you just need to know those sizes, the number of drive links, or that it's for a Stihl saw if you don't remember the number of links, but do remember the size, and gauge.   Other brands have a little different setup around the drive sprocket, and different bar mount pattern, so it has to be for a Stihl saw for a particular length bar, or the tooth count won't be right.

There is no better chain than the Stihl chain, but I don't know that they make a ripping chain.

Check out the Forestryforum forum on chainsaws.  

Keeping it sharp is most important.  I usually hit the chain at least every second tank.  It's much easier when each tooth needs two strokes with the file, than if you let it get dull enough to need 5, or more strokes.  Not only will you be fighting cutting with it, but it will be a lot more tiring on your arm.

If you are right handed, sharpen the right side cutters first.  If you start with the left cutters, it puts your hand at risk of cutting a finger to the bone, if your hand slips and hits a sharp tooth.  It's not so bad if the left cutters are dull.  Push the file straight back, parallel to the bar.  That's completely different than sharpening a handsaw, where you push down on the file.  Tighten the chain before you sharpen it.  The box shows you that 13/64 is the proper size file.

Also, get an Oregon depth gauge kit that will have a small smooth file with no teeth on the edges, and a gauge that lets you lower the depth gauges all exactly the same.   As you sharpen the chain, the cutting edges get lower relative to the depth gauges, and several times during the life of a chain, the depth gauges need to be lowered.  The box also shows you the clearance for the depth gauges is .025.   You can get those kits off ebay.

I hope you are able to find non-ethanol gas for it.  I know the newer saws have synthetic rubber, to be more ready for ethanol, but it will be a lot better for it if you don't run ethanol though it.

I change the crank seals every four or five years, and I'm still running saws, and small equipment over 20 years old.  Correct crankcase pressure is critical on a 2-stroke engines, and the seals can leak before you know it, which causes it to run lean.  There have been more pistons scored from leaking crank seals, than running straight gas in them.  Most junked saws are junked probably simply because of leaking crank seals.   That's not something you will need to worry about for 4, or 5 years though.

I either run the Stihl synthetic oil, or Klotz if my dealer only has the small bottles in stock when I'm coming up on needing more mix oil.  Otherwise, I buy the synthetic Stihl oil in gallon size, and it lasts me a couple of years.  Klotz is just as good though.  One of my string trimmers gets used all day, several days a week during grass cutting season, and it was new in 1999.  I've replaced stuff on it, but it's still running the same piston, cylinder, and low end.  

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16 minutes ago, Tom King said:

Baileysonline sells ripping chain.  You need to know the size, and number of links.  Looking at the chain box, you see 3/8, .050, and 84 is the number of links.  That bar will handle other chains than the 3/8's, as long as you stick with the .050, but you would have to change the drive sprocket.   You don't want to run a bigger ripping chain than 3/8, .050 anyway.

The saw shop i went to sells ripping chain, he explained it to me but i can't remember the details on the chain they carry but he sells it in semi skip and suggested it when running 36" or longer bar. They have the chain on hand and make loops with a days notice.

20 minutes ago, Tom King said:

Keeping it sharp is most important.  I usually hit the chain at least every second tank.  It's much easier when each tooth needs two strokes with the file, than if you let it get dull enough to need 5, or more strokes.  Not only will you be fighting cutting with it, but it will be a lot more tiring on your arm.

Good to know. I ran a tank today and did 3 strokes... so run a bit longer and don't waste so much metal. I bought one of these with the saw and the spare chain. https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/filing-tools/2in1file/ The jig is supposed to lower the depth gauges as well as sharpen as well. After using it tonight it took me 5 min to hit every tooth. Most of the time i'll be sharpening the saw mounted in the mill but noted on the dangers of sharpening.

27 minutes ago, Tom King said:

hope you are able to find non-ethanol gas for it.  I know the newer saws have synthetic rubber, to be more ready for ethanol, but it will be a lot better for it if you don't run ethanol though it.

They have ethanol free at almost every station around here. There are a LOT of boaters around here. I run it in all my small engines as well as my car (despite them telling me its for off road use only) If they want me to put it in my car they can come clean my injectors and fuel tank.

29 minutes ago, Tom King said:

I either run the Stihl synthetic oil,

I bought a big pack of the grey bottle Stihl HP Ultra stuff a couple years ago. I maybe used a pint of mix gas a year until i bought chainsaws. Don't cringe too much but the gas I'm running in my string trimmer is probably 5 years old.... i burned it in the fire this past weekend. It still started first pull every time so i never thought about it.

33 minutes ago, Tom King said:

One of my string trimmers gets used all day, several days a week during grass cutting season, and it was new in 1999.  I've replaced stuff on it, but it's still running the same piston, cylinder, and low end.  

:o Wow.

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11 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

They have ethanol free at almost every station around here. There are a LOT of boaters around here. I run it in all my small engines as well as my car (despite them telling me its for off road use only) If they want me to put it in my car they can come clean my injectors and fuel tank.

Does that mean the off road diesel they sell shouldn't be going in my 2500?

lol :P

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If you decide to work on it yourself, the Hutzl tools are dirt cheap, and work fine.  For instance, I think the seal puller is about $35, where the Stihl special tool, that looks just like it, is ten times that.  I don't trust their cheap seals though.  I stick with OEM seals.  I change all the crank seals in years that end with 0 or 5, so we'll be doing that job one day this Spring.  I'll try to remember to post some pictures.  It's not a hard job at all.

https://www.huztl.net/Chainsaw-Repair-Tools-c3056.html

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1 minute ago, MJC said:

Does that mean the off road diesel they sell shouldn't be going in my 2500?

lol :P

No worries unless they check, and find red dye in it.  That's a $10,000 dollar fine here, and I have been checked in a restaurant parking lot.  They probably paid several troopers yearly income one night at a cattle sale not far from here.

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2 minutes ago, Tom King said:

No worries unless they check, and find red dye in it.  That's a $10,000 dollar fine here, and I have been checked in a restaurant parking lot.  They probably paid several troopers yearly income one night at a cattle sale not far from here.

Yeah I don't think it's worth the risk, if I cannot afford the fuel I should have left it at the dealers lot right? I get fuel for about $2.00 a gallon after my discount but I also spend anywhere from $40,000.00 to $48,000.00 a day on fuel. 

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2 hours ago, MJC said:

Yeah I don't think it's worth the risk, if I cannot afford the fuel I should have left it at the dealers lot right? I get fuel for about $2.00 a gallon after my discount but I also spend anywhere from $40,000.00 to $48,000.00 a day on fuel. 

What in the world are you fueling to spend $40K a day?  Hope the discount is significant.

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7 hours ago, Woodenskye said:

What in the world are you fueling to spend $40K a day?  Hope the discount is significant.

You don't spend $10,000,000.00 on fuel a year? Assuming you only drive 250 days a year.

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