Popular Post derekcohen Posted November 3, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 I thought that the build might begin with preparing the panels, since there has been some interest in the past shown in the shorter Hammer K3 sliders. Mine has a 49" long slider and a 31" wide table for the rip fence. The build is an entry hall table for a wedding present for a niece. Her choice was this mid century modern piece, which will be the basis for the build. My job is to re-invent it somewhat. She wants Jarrah, and I have managed to find something spectacular ... a subtle fiddleback (curly) set of boards that will make a book match (as they are only about 9" wide each). Most imagine that the value of a slider lies with cross-cutting. It certainly is so. However it is the rip using the slider - rather than the rip fence - which is so amazing. One side of each board was to be ripped on the slider, before being jointed and resawn. Ripping on the slider is such an advantage with life edges. No jigs required. No rip fence to slide against. Just clamp the board on the slider, and run it past the saw blade. The long sliders can complete the rip in one quick pass. It occurred to me that I should take a few photos of ripping to width since the boards are longer than the slider. Here you can see that it comes up short ... In actuality, with the blade raised fully, there is a cut of nearly 54" ... The solution is to use a combination square to register the position of the side of the board at the front, and then slide the board forward and reposition it ... ... and repeat at the rear ... The result is a pretty good edge, one that is cleaned up on the jointer in 1 or 2 passes, and then ready for resawing ... This is the glued panel. It is long enough to make a waterfall two sides and top section (still oversize) ... The following photo shows the lower section at the rear. What I wanted to show is the way boards are stored. Since I shall not get back to this build until next weekend, all boards are stickered and clamped using steel square sections. The steel sections are inexpensive galvanised mild steel. These are covered in vinyl duct tape to prevent any marks on the wood and ease in removing glue ... Done for the day ... Enough for the case (top/bottom and sides), which will be through dovetailed with mitred corners, the stock for 4 legs (yet to be turned), and rails for the legs (the legs will be staked mortice-and-tenon) and attached with a sliding dovetail. Regards from Perth Derek 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted November 3, 2019 Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 And here we go again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted November 3, 2019 Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 Looking forward to another one of your awesome builds! Nice tip on the steel square tube to sticker with Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 I always look forward to your projects Derek. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 Glad to be along for the ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chip Sawdust Posted November 7, 2019 Report Share Posted November 7, 2019 Yep I’m onboard too. Let’s see what the weekend brings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post derekcohen Posted November 26, 2019 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted November 26, 2019 We are building a version of this hall table ... We left off last time with basic preparation of stock from rough sawn boards .. A word of introduction before continuing: while I am best known for hand tool work, I am a blended woodworker and have a pretty full compliment of power tools, which I use. It is horses for courses - power does the grunt work and hands do the details and joinery. So there are machines here as well as hand tools, and I like to believe they coexist well in my builds, as they should. I began this session by turning the legs ... The Jarrah for the legs turned out a few shades lighter than expected, and I made an extra piece to experiment with different dye mixes. A final decision shall be made once the case is completed. The panels needed to sized, which involved measuring from the centre line of the book-matched panels. The quickest way to square this up was to mark a line (in blue tape), and plane to it ... much faster than using power saws, etc. Once done, you can square up on a jointer .. ... rip to width ... ... and cross cut ... Here are the panels for the case (sides yet to be dimensioned for height) ... Packed away for the night ... When marking the dovetails, it pays to work precisely. Mark carefully ... My favourite dovetail saw is usually the one I sharpened most recently. This is an original Independence Tools saw by Pete Taran (circa 1995) .. Completed side panels ... It begins to be a little more fun as I get to use one of the features I recently built into my new Moxon vise - the Microjig clamps (details of Moxon vise here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/TheLastMoxon.html). These are used to hold the tail board to transfer to the pin board ... Here you see the transferred tails outline in blue tape (easier to see in the hard wood). On the left is a model of the mitred ends that will be part of this build ... Saw the pins ... Note that the end pins are not sawn on the outsides. Now turn the board around, and strike a vertical line at the outer pin ... Saw this on the diagonal only. Do both sides ... Place the board flat on the bench and create a chisel wall for each pin (earlier, this would have been done for each tail) ... The chisel wall will make it easier to create a coplanar baseline when removing the waste (by preventing the chisel moving back over the line). Do this on both sides of the board before proceeding. Now you can fretsaw away the waste. Try and get this to about 1mm above the baseline ... Here is a video of the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6O4rY_0zQs To create the mitred ends, first mark ... ... and saw about 1mm from the line. This will later be flushed with a chisel for accuracy. And so this is where we are up to at the end of the weekend ... So will the sides fit ... or won't they .... mmmmm Regards from Perth Derek 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted November 26, 2019 Report Share Posted November 26, 2019 You do amazing work Derek! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted November 26, 2019 Report Share Posted November 26, 2019 I am running out of things to say to describe the great work you do. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted November 26, 2019 Report Share Posted November 26, 2019 I just follow along mouth half open in awe and smash the like button on every post. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmac Posted November 26, 2019 Report Share Posted November 26, 2019 I was hoping this build was going to pop up again. Love following along! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted November 26, 2019 Report Share Posted November 26, 2019 Awesome job. Your dovetail work always leaves me with my jaw on the floor. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbutcher Posted November 26, 2019 Report Share Posted November 26, 2019 Derek- Do you put a shoulder on your tail board, to help with alignment when transferring the pins? Awesome journal, your work is absolutely stellar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted November 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 6 hours ago, woodbutcher said: Derek- Do you put a shoulder on your tail board, to help with alignment when transferring the pins? Awesome journal, your work is absolutely stellar. No shoulder here. One of the reasons for my Moxon design is that it holds the board off the chop and I can see light (indicating gaps). Moxon: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/TheLastMoxon.html If I did want a shoulder, I created a way to do this using blue tape instead (which is not invasive): http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/The140TrickisDead.html Regards from Perth Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted November 27, 2019 Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 Derek, can you tell me about that lathe light. Where did you get it? It is very similar to one a friend of mine in The States makes from an Ikea lamp and a Harbor Freight magnetic base. Is yours home made or purchased? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted November 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 Mark, I purchased the light from a vendor in Australia. I'm racking my brain to remember from whom as I would like a couple more. Fortunately, they are quite common now. This one is 240v. Regards from Perth Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted November 27, 2019 Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 Found a couple similar. Cool idea! https://www.pennstateind.com/store/LLED3.html https://www.tylertool.com/nova-9032-19-in.-gooseneck-magnetic-base-lamp/nvan9032.html?ref=pla-mobile&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=722&zmap=absneatag02s1p&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzYK5vc6K5gIVGKSzCh1DDQ1OEAkYASABEgI66_D_BwE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PX9MGN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VNO3Db5RAH81J edit: fixed third link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted November 27, 2019 Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 100 bucks is too much for me to pay for one of these things. My friend gets $40 for his and I make one from the shorter Ikea clamp light that uses about 20 in parts. The Nova version is interesting, though. Anyway, back to the hall table! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chip Sawdust Posted December 25, 2019 Report Share Posted December 25, 2019 @derekcohen so where’s this project at now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post derekcohen Posted December 25, 2019 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted December 25, 2019 Well, access to the workshop is a little difficult as I have been in Europe for the past week, and have another three more before returning home. Currently in Vienna, and next off to Berlin. In the two weekends before leaving, I did a little more dovetailing, but my focus was largely taken by setting up a new drill press - birthday present for January ... Merry Christmas from Vienna Derek 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post derekcohen Posted January 22, 2020 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 I've been away from the workshop for a month, travelling around a few cities in Austria and Germany, as well as Prague. It was a good trip, but it's great to be home. The current build was on hold. This is the entry hall table my niece asked me to build ... ... and this is where we left off last time - ready to fit the first corner ... Past builds: Part 1: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/EntryHallTableForANiece1.html Part 2: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/EntryHallTableForANiece2.html Today we shall put the complete case together. What I wish to focus on is the dovetailing. Not just any dovetailing, but mitred through dovetailing in unforgiving hardwood (here, Fiddleback Jarrah). Of all the commonly used dovetails, I consider the through dovetail more difficult than the half-blind dovetail. Why ... because two sides are exposed against the single face of the half-blind. In my opinion, by mitering the ends, the level of complexity is tripled .. at least. Not only are there three faces now, but each needs to be dimensioned perfectly, otherwise each is affected in turn. This is more difficult than a secret mitred dovetail, where mistakes may be hidden. I have posted before on building the mitred though dovetail, and it is not my intention to do this again. Instead, what I wish to show are the tuning tricks to get it right. This is the model of the tail- and pin boards … In a wide case, such as this, it is critical that the parts go together ideally off the saw or, at least, require minimal adjustment. The more adjustments one makes, the more the dovetails will look ragged. Tail boards are straightforward. Let’s consider this done. Once the transfer of tails to pins is completed, the vital area is sawing the vertical lines … well, perfectly vertical. I use blue tape in transferring the marks. The first saw cut is flat against the tape. Note that the harder the wood, the less compression there will be, and so the tail-pin fit needs to be spot on. Where you saw offers an opportunity for ensuring a good fit: if you hug the line (edge of the tape), you get a tight fit. If you encroach a smidgeon over the line, you loosen the fit slightly. Saw diagionally, using the vertical line as your target … Only then level the saw and complete the cut … I do not plan to discuss removing the waste. That was demonstrated in Part 2. So, the next important area is the mitre. These are scribed, and then I use a crosscut saw to remove the waste about 1mm above the line on both the tail- and pin boards … Now we are ready to test-fit the boards … Mmmm …. not a great fit … … even though the mitres at the sides are tight … The problem is that the mitres are fat, and the extra thickness is holding the boards apart … Even sawing to the lines here is likely to leave some fat, which is why it is a waste of energy to try and saw to the line in this instance. It needs to be pared away with a chisel, using a 45-degree fixture. As tempting and logical as it seems to pare straight down the guide … … what I experience is that the chisel will skip over the surface of the hard wood rather than digging in and cutting it away. What is more successful is to pare at an angle, and let the corner of the bevel catch the wood … This is what you are aiming for … Okay, we do this. And this is the result … Not bad. But not good enough. There is a slight gap at each side, quite fine, but evident close up. The source is traced to the mitre not being clean enough. It is like sharpening a blade – look for the light on the edge. If it is there, the blade is not sharp. If there is a slight amount of waste on the mitre, the case will not close up. To clear this, instead of a chisel – which is tricky to use for such a small amount – I choose to use a file. This file has the teeth on the sides ground off to create “safe” sides. Try again. The fit is now very good. I will stop there. So, this is the stage of the project: the case is completed. This is a dry fit … One end … The other … The waterfall can be seen, even without being smoothed and finished … Regards from Perth Derek 10 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted January 22, 2020 Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 Another great tutorial thanks Derek!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted January 22, 2020 Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 I always enjoy following your work and it is always top notch. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted January 22, 2020 Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 Nice work. I enjoyed the narrative with the pictures. Did you intend to cut the mitres a little fat? Cleaning up the mitres I think would be easier then the rest of the joint. Thanks Derek! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted January 22, 2020 Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 Looks great, and the wood is spectacular!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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