Brendon_t Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 10 hours ago, K Cooper said: Thanks Dave. Usually I’ll burn it, then sand the unwanted part off, then put on a finish. These are toys for my bosses boys, and will be signed/stamped on the bottom, obviously, and I’m sure it doesn’t matter to them, but wanted it to look nice. I may just go Steve’s route with a real signature and date with a sharpie. Like Steve says, you may wanna test on scrap. Sharpies are alcohol soluble. Wouldn't want it to bleed into your top coat. No idea if that's possible but it's 4am so I'm going with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 Acetone removes Sharpie marks quickly. I don't think varnish or mineral spirits will affect it but testing is smart ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted December 16, 2017 Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 If i have new wood at 7% and i need to acclimate to shop 8% should i be worried about sticker stain? Should i even worry about stickers at such a small moisture difference? This is relative btw my meter is not calibrated nor did i set density. Though i doubt it's off by more that 1-2% Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted December 16, 2017 Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 For sure stickering will help with uniformity & speed. But I wonder if 1% difference is significant? Other's thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 16, 2017 Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 Better safe than sorry . Stickering with any scraps that have been in the shop for ages is safe. 24-48 hours before you start chopping and 12-24 hours after rough cuts before cutting to final dimensions is one of those safe practices that are worth following. Every time I get in a hurry something moves, twists, warps , cracks etc. Never count on using every square inch of material you have on hand. 15 % extra is a bare minimum, 30 % isn't unreasonable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted December 16, 2017 Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 I don't usually sticker raw lumber in my shop. However, once I start cutting parts, I cut them oversize and then sticker/stack them for a couple days prior to use in a project. I just don't have enough room to stack/sticker raw lumber. Not to mention, digging through the stack to find a board would be a PITA if it were stacked/stickered.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 16, 2017 Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 Yea, raw lumber never gets stickered in my shop either. But when I buy boards for immediate use stickering them helps with acclimation. No worries w sticker stain on kiln dried stock in the shop. Green lumber is a whole nuther thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted December 16, 2017 Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 Thanks guys you answered my questions and then some. I don't know for sure when i'm going to get started on the morris chair project but i'm going to sticker and stack so i could start next week if i really wanted. I don't really have a TON of space either but i have enough to do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted December 16, 2017 Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 I'm gonna jump back in here & ask again, is 1% moisture difference something to be concerned with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted December 16, 2017 Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 4 minutes ago, drzaius said: I'm gonna jump back in here & ask again, is 1% moisture difference something to be concerned with? I'm going to flat out say no it is not. The accuracy of the meters themselves, especially if you are using pinless types, simply aren't that precise. Pinless meters will get different measurements for different species of wood, based on the densities of the species, which can also vary from one board to the next, of the same species. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ..Kev Posted December 16, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 7 minutes ago, drzaius said: I'm gonna jump back in here & ask again, is 1% moisture difference something to be concerned with? I think that depends on the lumber.. In something fairly small, probably not. In something large and thick, it could. Even at 1%, that moisture is going to go away. That's why I do a rough milling on project parts and then let them sit a day or 2 before final milling and use. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chestnut Posted December 16, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 11 hours ago, Isaac said: I'm going to flat out say no it is not Resawing laminations from 8/4 to do bent laminations. I'm not going to take chances. Now 4/4 for something that is going to be constrained in multiple directions i agree. 11 hours ago, Isaac said: The accuracy of the meters themselves, especially if you are using pinless types, simply aren't that precise. Precise or accurate? The meter is precise but it's not calibrated so i can't say it's accurate. If i drop it on a board and let it sit there the reading doesn't jump around. If i take the meter and go back and forth to the same spot the reading in that spot is always the same. Calibration doesn't really matter if i'm comparing the same species and averaging across a couple boards. Got it all stacked. Nearly 200 BF of cherry 8/4 and 5/4 some birch which after the 100BF discount on the cherry it was maybe $0.50 savings a BF wish i had just gotten more cherry. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted December 16, 2017 Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 Nice stash! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted December 16, 2017 Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 I've never used a moisture meter, but typically I buy lumber several weeks before working it & then let it sit a week or 2 after rough milling. I should probably get one though, just to be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted December 16, 2017 Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 4 hours ago, Chestnut said: Resawing laminations from 8/4 to do bent laminations. I'm not going to take chances. Now 4/4 for something that is going to be constrained in multiple directions i agree. Precise or accurate? The meter is precise but it's not calibrated so i can't say it's accurate. If i drop it on a board and let it sit there the reading doesn't jump around. If i take the meter and go back and forth to the same spot the reading in that spot is always the same. Calibration doesn't really matter if i'm comparing the same species and averaging across a couple boards. Got it all stacked. Nearly 200 BF of cherry 8/4 and 5/4 some birch which after the 100BF discount on the cherry it was maybe $0.50 savings a BF wish i had just gotten more cherry. bell forest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted December 16, 2017 Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 Naa local yard. There isn't much bell forrest has that i can't get locally any more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted December 17, 2017 Report Share Posted December 17, 2017 Ran through the entire slate of setup on my table saw today. The blade was 40 thousands out of parallel with the miter slot. I have no idea how that is possible. Or how to stop it from happening again. Took me 2 hours to get it resolved, and another 25 mins to get the motor tightened back down because my hands don't fit in the thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 17, 2017 Report Share Posted December 17, 2017 2 minutes ago, Cliff said: Ran through the entire slate of setup on my table saw today. The blade was 40 thousands out of parallel with the miter slot. I have no idea how that is possible. Or how to stop it from happening again. Took me 2 hours to get it resolved, and another 25 mins to get the motor tightened back down because my hands don't fit in the thing. Sounds like the best solution is to save faster for a new saw. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted December 17, 2017 Report Share Posted December 17, 2017 7 hours ago, Chestnut said: Naa local yard. There isn't much bell forrest has that i can't get locally any more. Curious where you picked it up? Happy with what you got? Always looking for new sources. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted December 17, 2017 Report Share Posted December 17, 2017 10 hours ago, pkinneb said: Curious where you picked it up? Happy with what you got? Always looking for new sources. I was going to give Logs to lumber a try but then didn't want to drive so far so i went to Youndblood Lumber. I wish i could do a whole sale order but all the big yards seem require a business account with a tax id. I offered one to do a 500BF order and pay cash but they weren't interested. Where do you go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted December 17, 2017 Report Share Posted December 17, 2017 4 minutes ago, Chestnut said: I was going to give Logs to lumber a try but then didn't want to drive so far so i went to Youndblood Lumber. I wish i could do a whole sale order but all the big yards seem require a business account with a tax id. I offered one to do a 500BF order and pay cash but they weren't interested. Where do you go? Might be worth it to create a little business and just get a tax ID? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted December 17, 2017 Report Share Posted December 17, 2017 3 minutes ago, Isaac said: Might be worth it to create a little business and just get a tax ID? I never asked on prices but for what i paid the other day was reasonable and i might just do larger orders through them and then not have the hassle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted December 17, 2017 Report Share Posted December 17, 2017 1 hour ago, Chestnut said: I never asked on prices but for what i paid the other day was reasonable and i might just do larger orders through them and then not have the hassle. My dad always said that the good mills required purchases in the thousands or tens of thousands of board feet. The reason we went to Amish mills was to purchase smaller quantities. Hardwood stores were not a thing around here back then. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted December 17, 2017 Report Share Posted December 17, 2017 4 minutes ago, C Shaffer said: My dad always said that the good mills required purchases in the thousands or tens of thousands of board feet. The reason we went to Amish mills was to purchase smaller quantities. Hardwood stores were not a thing around here back then. I'd be buying just 1 step up in the corporate ladder. I was looking at the destributors that buy from the mills that sell in those quantities. That being said going 1 step up can give you some savings. Also the rough vs surfaced wood is a huge boon. There is a lot of flexibility hiding in those 3/16ths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted December 17, 2017 Report Share Posted December 17, 2017 Yeah it makes sense, if their primary clients are manufacturers who plan to make hundreds or even thousands of identical chairs/tables/dressers/ etc. our little hobbyist purchases aren't even worth their time. That being said, I have several smaller places in Illinois, Wisconsin and Indiana that I've been to, that I'm quite satisfied with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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