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10 hours ago, K Cooper said:

Thanks Dave. Usually I’ll burn it, then sand the unwanted part off, then put on a finish. These are toys for my bosses boys, and will be signed/stamped on the bottom, obviously, and I’m sure it doesn’t matter to them, but wanted it to look nice. I may just go Steve’s route with a real signature and date with a sharpie. 

Like Steve says, you may wanna test on scrap. Sharpies are alcohol soluble. Wouldn't want it to bleed into your top coat. No idea if that's possible but it's 4am so I'm going with it.

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If i have new wood at 7% and i need to acclimate to shop 8% should i be worried about sticker stain? Should i even worry about stickers at such a small moisture difference? This is relative btw my meter is not calibrated nor did i set density. Though i doubt it's off by more that 1-2%

 

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Better safe than sorry . Stickering with any scraps that have been in the shop for ages is safe. 24-48 hours before you start chopping and 12-24 hours after rough cuts before cutting to final dimensions is one of those safe practices that are worth following.

Every time I get in a hurry something moves, twists, warps , cracks etc.  Never count on using every square inch of material you have on hand. 15 % extra is a bare minimum, 30 % isn't unreasonable.

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I don't usually sticker raw lumber in my shop.  However, once I start cutting parts, I cut them oversize and then sticker/stack them for a couple days prior to use in a project.  I just don't have enough room to stack/sticker raw lumber.  Not to mention, digging through the stack to find a board would be a PITA if it were stacked/stickered..

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Thanks guys you answered my questions and then some. I don't know for sure when i'm going to get started on the morris chair project but i'm going to sticker and stack so i could start next week if i really wanted. I don't really have a TON of space either but i have enough to do this.

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4 minutes ago, drzaius said:

I'm gonna jump back in here & ask again, is 1% moisture difference something to be concerned with?

I'm going to flat out say no it is not. The accuracy of the meters themselves, especially if you are using pinless types, simply aren't that precise. Pinless meters will get different measurements for different species of wood, based on the densities of the species, which can also vary from one board to the next, of the same species. 

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4 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Resawing laminations from 8/4 to do bent laminations. I'm not going to take chances. Now 4/4 for something that is going to be constrained in multiple directions i agree.

Precise or accurate? The meter is precise but it's not calibrated so i can't say it's accurate. If i drop it on a board and let it sit there the reading doesn't jump around. If i take the meter and go back and forth to the same spot the reading in that spot is always the same. Calibration doesn't really matter if i'm comparing the same species and averaging across a couple boards.

Got it all stacked. Nearly 200 BF of cherry 8/4 and 5/4 some birch which after the 100BF discount  on the cherry it was maybe $0.50 savings a BF wish i had just gotten more cherry.

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bell forest?

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Ran through the entire slate of setup on my table saw today. The blade was 40 thousands out of parallel with the miter slot. I have no idea how that is possible. Or how to stop it from happening again. Took me 2 hours to get it resolved, and another 25 mins to get the motor tightened back down because my hands don't fit in the thing. :(

 

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2 minutes ago, Cliff said:

Ran through the entire slate of setup on my table saw today. The blade was 40 thousands out of parallel with the miter slot. I have no idea how that is possible. Or how to stop it from happening again. Took me 2 hours to get it resolved, and another 25 mins to get the motor tightened back down because my hands don't fit in the thing. :(

 

Sounds like the best solution is to save faster for a new saw. 

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10 hours ago, pkinneb said:

Curious where you picked it up? Happy with what you got? Always looking for new sources.

I was going to give Logs to lumber a try but then didn't want to drive so far so i went to Youndblood Lumber. I wish i could do a whole sale order but all the big yards seem require a business account with a tax id. I offered one to do a 500BF order and pay cash but they weren't interested.

Where do you go?

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4 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

I was going to give Logs to lumber a try but then didn't want to drive so far so i went to Youndblood Lumber. I wish i could do a whole sale order but all the big yards seem require a business account with a tax id. I offered one to do a 500BF order and pay cash but they weren't interested.

Where do you go?

Might be worth it to create a little business and just get a tax ID? 

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1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

I never asked on prices but for what i paid the other day was reasonable and i might just do larger orders through them and then not have the hassle.

My dad always said that the good mills required purchases in the thousands or tens of thousands of board feet. The reason we went to Amish mills was to purchase smaller quantities. Hardwood stores were not a thing around here back then. 

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4 minutes ago, C Shaffer said:

My dad always said that the good mills required purchases in the thousands or tens of thousands of board feet. The reason we went to Amish mills was to purchase smaller quantities. Hardwood stores were not a thing around here back then. 

I'd be buying just 1 step up in the corporate ladder. I was looking at the destributors that buy from the mills that sell in those quantities. That being said going 1 step up can give you some savings. Also the rough vs surfaced wood is a huge boon. There is a lot of flexibility hiding in those 3/16ths.

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Yeah it makes sense, if their primary clients are manufacturers who plan to make hundreds or even thousands of identical chairs/tables/dressers/ etc. our little hobbyist purchases aren't even worth their time. That being said, I have several smaller places in Illinois, Wisconsin and Indiana that I've been to, that I'm quite satisfied with. 

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