What did you do today?


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My DIL has a sister (lives on the other side of the country) who is an extremely unfit parent, so they have taken on legal guardianship of he 7 YO son. So now I am his defacto grandfather. His other g

Just spent a very enjoyable few hours with @Ronn W when he stopped by on his way to Marc Adams woodworking school in Indiana. A great bowl of chili and some homemade sourdough bread with cupcakes for

Only because I didn't want to disappoint you, Ken, I used mesquite for trim on the doors and stiles. And to top it off, I used Lone Star pulls.

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10 minutes ago, Chet said:

She is probably reading the chapter of Tom Sawyer where they are White Washing the fence.

Unfortunately that will probably be the next book or statute to be banned or burned. Right after my post. 

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12 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

I tried just turning the wing nut that holds the rotating parts together when I cut the outside. After losing the feeling in my thumb for a week, I made this Q&D tee handle for doing the inside.

I am having difficulty imagining/remembering how you do the inside.  Are you using your "Spin-a-ma-jig"?

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1 hour ago, Mark J said:

I am having difficulty imagining/remembering how you do the inside.  Are you using your "Spin-a-ma-jig"?

@Mark J, yes. Used outside and inside. Painter's tape and hot glue attaches the spinning hub, so no pivot hole. For the inside this bowl, I centered the disk over the blade, raise the blade until I heard it engage, then gave the disk a spin. Repeat until desired depth is achieved. Then advance the jig into the blade a bit, so the work engages the falling front teeth and minimizes the chance of kick-back. Spin, move the jig sideways & spin. Repeat until desired wall thickness is achieved. The curvature of the blade defines the shape of the wall, and is manipulated by changing the angle of attack, or the tilt and size of the blade. It is possible to make and under-cut rim this way. The tricky part is keeping track of the blade position while working blind in the hollow. One reason my jig attaches to the rip fence and pivots is so the work can be easily raised up to check progress. With a 30" rip capacity and 10" blade, it is possible to cut bowls up to 5' diameter and about 3.5" deep.  Of course, one might save a lot of time and material by using segmented rings for the initial blank. TS jigs for that are pretty simple. By stacking and turning the rings in stages, a much deeper form can be milled. Even a hollow-form vase, but the minimum diameter would be limited by the size of the blade.

Hhhmmmm... somebody may be getting an umbrella stand for Christmas....

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1 hour ago, wtnhighlander said:

Scrollsaw and MDF. 

Nabbed an image from his web site, traced it to an SVG file so it would scale up smoothly. Then printed and glued to some scraps of MDF. Tedious, but not difficult.

Very professional looking! As is your dad’s website. Very well done bud! 

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10 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

Where I am in WTN, it was 92* and 82% humidity today.

 @Chestnut can brag when its cold. :lol:

Yikes that sounds miserable, though I drank a bunch of water and was in the shade. After a while i got used to it, just like after a while you adapt and get used to the cold.

2 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

Drew, what length bar are you running in that mill?

Currently only a 25" bar which leaves me ~19" capacity. Most trees I run across are small and if i mind something bigger I intend to turn it into a square and just run boards. I have my eye on a 42" bar but going above 25"-28" requires an auxiliary oiler / skip chain, and more hassle so running smaller keeps thing simple and easy. Start to finish that 8' log too me an hour including setup, stacking,  and tear down.

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