What did you do today?


new2woodwrk

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12 hours ago, JohnG said:

Some routers will also let you block traffic from specific IPs or ranges, so you could manually block any traffic from your IoT network from communicating with your LAN IPs. 

12 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

Unless you really want to allow 'guests' to acces the internet via your home wifi, I suggest disabling the guest wifi network, and use access control lists to limit wireless access to only devices for which you provide the MAC  (hardware) address. And always use a computer wired to your router for setup tasks.

I'm going to have to look into that there more and more wifi connected devices that visit the more and more uncomfortable I get. Trouble is I have a pretty extensive wired network.... yes that is weird in this day and age apparently, and need to have the "guest" network not able to interact with the wired network. I also hate how the term "router" has adopted switches and access points.... I never know when internet articles are talking about the actual router or the combination network device that contains a router, switch, and wireless access point.

I probably need to subnet the whole thing. Ideally I'd have a switch after the modem and just pull 2 complete separate ips from Comcast but they don't allow that anymore for residential i guess.

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@Chestnut, we got fiber to the home this year, a huge upgrade from the DSL I was previously stuck with. Since I already owned a wifi / switch / router device, I connected it on the private / LAN side of the ISP device, and all my home network gear connects through it. It adds a second firewall layer between my stuff and the outside world, and I can keep my home wifi totally private. If a 'guest' needs internet access, I can give them access via the ISP device's wifi, totally bypassing my home net.

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1 hour ago, wtnhighlander said:

@Chestnut, we got fiber to the home this year, a huge upgrade from the DSL I was previously stuck with. Since I already owned a wifi / switch / router device, I connected it on the private / LAN side of the ISP device, and all my home network gear connects through it. It adds a second firewall layer between my stuff and the outside world, and I can keep my home wifi totally private. If a 'guest' needs internet access, I can give them access via the ISP device's wifi, totally bypassing my home net.

Yeah my setup is different I have a dedicated modem, only a modem, a dedicated router, only a routing device so 2 ports, then a switch, and an access point connected to the switch, along with all my other wired devices. I'd need to subnet after the router before the main switch. I don't buy combination devices cause failures are too high and LOML works from home and NEEDs stable internet. In 5 years i've never had to reset a single device and had 3 years of uptime before the power droped once.... i was pretty proud of that uptime.

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On 12/21/2022 at 8:55 AM, legenddc said:

I remember when we got DSL. It made downloading songs from Napster a lot quicker. :D

I feel like an information security disaster over here with just a modem and a router. Also, nothing is hardwired. 

For the majority it doesn't really matter. Kinda like pick-resistant locks on your front door. Those won't make a difference if thieves just knock it off it's hinges or break a window. In the same sense most personal data loss is from large corporate hacks or public wifi, and spyware is more likely to come pre-loaded on the device, hidden in real software, or a spam link, not someone hacking your home wifi network.

But you still won't catch me with wifi security cameras active inside the house.

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Not necessarily a disaster, but not ideal. If you live in a more densely populated area, you can set your wireless router to NOT broadcast your SSID. This will not stop a sophisticated attack but will put a hurdle in the way of the lazy and the opportunistic threats. Having a decent password (and one that isn’t used across many different services/accounts) also goes a long way.

If you don’t have a lot of “smart” or wifi enabled devices outside of your computers/phones then you’re probably fine. As someone touched on previously, “Smart” devices are rarely smart about network security.

It’s easy to go all out on network security, but you don’t have to go far down that path before the practical ROI drops off for most people. 

The bigger risk for many people is clicking on email links. 

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On 12/21/2022 at 12:04 PM, BonPacific said:

For the majority it doesn't really matter. Kinda like pick-resistant locks on your front door. Those won't make a difference if thieves just knock it off it's hinges or break a window. 

Or if the thief has any lock picking knowledge at all. Most locks that advertise “pick resistance” are only trivially harder to pick than average.

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2 hours ago, JohnG said:

Or if the thief has any lock picking knowledge at all. Most locks that advertise “pick resistance” are only trivially harder to pick than average.

After watching lockpickinglawyer there is only one lock that I'd suggest if picking resistance is important. That said being able to get into 95% of homes in the us with a wave rake... breaking a window is just foolish.

2 hours ago, legenddc said:

I feel like an information security disaster over here with just a modem and a router. Also, nothing is hardwired. 

There isn't anything wrong with that. I just like having a NAS hardwired to my desktop so i can push files with gigabit speeds over what ever wifi gets me 100 mpbs? Yes yes there are faster wifis but their range blows and I can connect to my AP about 450 feet away. Cell service at our house stinks 5g is making that worse so i need wifi for calling etc.

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I am not a lock pick. Without an alarm, most houses can be breached in a minute or two with a battery saws all. Locks are for people who need doors. Tom K linked to a place he buys tools. I clicked on that link once, and got an email within minutes. That’s not from device, that’s from the email I used to login here first, years ago. You can get the most secure devices you want. As soon as you enter the web, whatever you put on it can be accessed. Similarly, you can put on fancy doors and locks, but your roof is likely 7/16” ply or osb. 

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On 12/17/2022 at 8:14 AM, Chestnut said:

Don't you off vine ripen? I lay my tomatoes out on cardboard single layer and get ripe fruit for at least a month after first freeze.

I’ve heard of that before. Thanks for the reminder. I went to Kroger today and bummed several of their short boxes that their can goods are displayed in. Hopefully it works!

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I've been studying heat pumps a lot lately. Often, when someone changes a thermostat, there is a little fuse that gets blown if the yellow wire grounds out anywhere, even with the power off a capacitor may be holding enough of a charge.  If it does blow, nothing at all will work.  It's a little 3 or 5 amp automotive fuse.  Typically, a $250 service call.

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On 12/29/2022 at 4:23 PM, Tom King said:

I've been studying heat pumps a lot lately. Often, when someone changes a thermostat, there is a little fuse that gets blown if the yellow wire grounds out anywhere, even with the power off a capacitor may be holding enough of a charge.  If it does blow, nothing at all will work.  It's a little 3 or 5 amp automotive fuse.  Typically, a $250 service call.

Thanks for the head's up. I'm not sure what made the old thermostat go nuts but the new one works fine.

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Sounds like it was stuck on Auto Mode.

I'm not brand loyal, but we just ended up with a number of Aprilaires, so any time one has needed to be changed, or simply changing away from the old Mercury switch manual type, I have replaced them with an Aprilaire.

I did have one go bad a couple of years ago.  It had power coming in, but nothing going out. 

The good thing about the Aprilaire is the working part just snaps off the base on the wall that the wires are hooked up to, so it's a ten second job to change one.  I keep a spare one, but we have seven.

 

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Never heard of that brand but i don't search out very far. I've only paid for one thermostat and it was installed with the furnace made by the furnace company, daikin. I have to use it supposedly. I guess it communicates with the electronics that run the variable gas valve furnace and inverter drive AC unit. I don't really like it. Mostly because the wheel used to change settings is trash sometimes it takes 3 rotations to change 1 number other times it changes 3 numbers for 1 rotation. Other times you can spin the dial and the temp will just bounce back and forth between 2 numbers you don't want. After its programmed it works as expected.

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I was tasked with repainting an old desk/hutch combo today. Wanted the look of GF Milk Paint, but none was to be found locally. Instead, I used this Rustoleum product at the local Lowes ,and so far, I am pleased. Application and appearance are very close to GF, but the color selection is limited. Still debating on paste wax, or satin High Performance as the top coat. As this is a low-use piece, the wax is very tempting.

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