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Late to the party. You guys have already figured out that due to the geometry you can cut the dovetail a bit too deep but not a bit too shallow. Great solution with the Forstner bit. Well done. I also notice that the nuts can get wedged and require a downward push to pop them loose at times. -
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By Beechwood Chip · Posted
I started thinking about a groove, but I wanted to be able to rotate the block. -
By treeslayer · Posted
Making great progress Drew, looking forward to seeing the finished project, what’s the cushions going to be? -
Towards the end i got a bit excited and forgot to take as many pictures. As mentioned in my previous post I was working on a way to try and cut the side assemblies for the arm rest and then to get the right leg length. I ended up using my bevel gauge to try and set the bottom of the leg length. With that line set I measured on the old chair up to the bottom of the arm rest where the arm rest met the legs. Using that measurement i was able to determine to two planes for the ground and the arm rest. To make the cut I dropped my track saw track on top of the 2 side assemblies. Lining up the track with the reference lines i cut both side assemblies in 1 shot so they would be as close to the same as possible. With that out of the way the next step was to clean up the side assemblies and make the frames for the bottom seat and the back rest. This is where I got in a bit of a hurry and didn't' take pictures. The bottom seat frame is a simple frame. To hold up the seat cushion webbing was used on the original chair. This will be emulated. I needed slots for the webbing to go through so I used a router my domino to make 3 plunges in a row to create a slot. I did this around the permiter of the base spaced out to attach the seat webbing. For the back rest I made another frame and attached 5 back slates in the middle. The original chair had 5 turned spindles that were used but I didn't really want to go to that detail and slats are easier. Now the trick is to attach the sides to the bottom and back rest. I figured the back rest should attach to the seat portion securely. So i measured the angle of the back rest with my bevel gauge. I transferred the angle to my table saw and ripped the back of the seat so I could attach the back rest at the right angle. I used dominoes for this. Again i forgot to take pictures sorry. One good trick is keep in mind you don't always need to measure angles for your table saw exclusively above the table. I've found in many situations it's VERY helpful to go below the table. Using a square or bevel gauge in this way allows me to reference most of the saw blade instead of just the outer edge. I personally feel it's helped me nail angles on my table saw either 90 degrees or some random angle better. Before final assembly thought is required to attach the arm rests. The main glue up won't include the arm rests for reasons. To connect the arm rests to the legs I made mortises in the tops of the legs that will match up to the arm rest. I made sure that reference lines would be easy to transfer and measured their locations from reference edges. I then documented that reference measurement on the parts. The final step was just to assemble everything minus the arm rests. I glued the backrest to the seat in 1 operation so the whole glue up would be a bit easier. The back rest forms a long grain to long grain glue joint with part of the side assembly. In that location i ran a glue bead and used some small clamps. I don't fully trust this so I will reinfoce with screws later on. And out of the clamps. You can see the arm rest mortises. With the main chair assembled I started work on the arm rests. I traced the rough outline of the arm rest from the original onto a sheet of ply. I cut out the outline on the band saw and cleaned up the edges. I was going to just use this to trace on the board cut out and shape by hand but then i figured it'd be almost as fast to just template route the arm out. I HATE, i mean ABSOLUTELY HATE template routing so i usually avoid it at all costs but it just made sense here. I used my white side bit with a top and bottom bearing so i could flip the parts over and make sure I was always routing with the grain. With the arms done it was just a simple transfer marks, make mortises, and attach with floating tenons. With the chair fully assembled it was time for the reinforcing screws. Probably not necessary but it's better safe than sorry. I plugged the screw holes with bocote for a little flare. The current status of the chair is applying finish. I"m going for shellac on this because I just like it. I meant to mix my own from flakes but then ran out of time. It's just too easy to grab a can of seal coat and go. I get that it's not as good but it's convenient. I could probably do a single coat of wiping on poly over top to add some durability but honestly I've been using shellac a LOT recently and the stuff is durable as long as it doesn't have water sit on it. I apply shellac with a Hake brush. I feel it's a really nice way to apply shellac and the brushes are cheap and easy to maintain. Between coats i just let the brush soak in denatured alcohol. For now I'm just applying finish. My MIL is making cushions for both chairs and once they are complete I'll post the finished pictures.
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