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ANd finally it has finish on it ... I used "Tried and True" danish oil, which I like, but I'm a bit disappointed with the colour of the bubinga veneer ... The project I made with this flitch of veneer before it has a richer reddy-brown colour. However I like how the sapele finished. The top worked out ok too ... just enough figure in the sapele to give it some interest, but not too much. I used simple magnetic catches for the door catches. The centre door has no visible hinges or handle, so I added a small lever behind the right door, which moves a cam the other side of the divider, which pushes a small brass pin that pushes open the central door. The drawers behind can't really be called secret drawers, since it is so obvious that there should be something behind the panel, so I guess "hidden drawers" is a better description. The big drawer I am planning on installing a fabric lined support for the violin and bows etc ... but I don't have enough fabric on hand. SO this will have to wait. ANd when the acoustic violin is packed away and I want to play electric ... the amplifier is stored behind the left door ... just open up and switch on ... Thanks again to all of you who followed along, giving encouragement, advice etc. This was certainly a challenging build, woth lots of difficulties along the way ... but I think it can be called a success -
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Started squaring up my MDF block today on the table saw. The oversized piece in the middle worked well to give me a straight edge and the first cuts went fine, but I didn't quite cut off enough and had to do a second skim cut. Suddenly things went from easy to very wonky, with the piece wanting to bind on me mid-cut - no fun! Long story short, since the block was taller than my blade, I was having to flip it and make two cuts. I figured out my riving knife was just a bit taller than my blade, so on the first cut it was running into the uncut upper portion. Cutting in the middle of the block was no issue, the knife just bumped the back of the block up a hair and apparently I didn't even notice, but when I tried a skim cut the knife would fight its way to the outside of the top uncut part of the MDF block and torque it in towards the fence, which was causing the binding. Some history about this riving knife: my table saw did not come with one and so I made mine from one made for a latter model of my saw. You'll notice from the above photo I only drilled holes for the two bolts and not full slots. So every time I switched to a dado stack, I was having to completely unbolt the knife to take it out, which was getting very old. The discovery that the knife was also a little high was more than enough motivation to spend some time working on the knife. I had gotten a carbide hacksaw blade for this day, because whatever this knife is made out of, it laughs at standard hacksaw blades as it polishes off their teeth. A little cutting and filing later, I had too slots a little deeper than the holes. I wish there was a little more metal left, but I convinced myself that this stuff is plenty hard enough to be fine. With the riving knife now slotted and even with my blade, I finished squaring up my MDF. Then I thought about it for a while and decided to put finish on the MDF before routing the dovetail slots. My thinking is it will be very hard to keep finish out of the slots and it will be a pain to clean them up. We'll see if this cure is better or worse than the disease. (Not cut to length yet, hence the uneven ends. I'll do that after routing slots to deal with any tear out.) p.s. I was reminded that one cannot have enough air filtration when working with MDF.
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