The Shop
1,895 topics in this forum
-
- 11 replies
- 15k views
-
- 5 replies
- 1.2k views
-
- 4 replies
- 1.9k views
-
- 6 replies
- 2.6k views
-
- 6 replies
- 1.8k views
-
- 38 replies
- 6.8k views
-
- 7 replies
- 1.7k views
-
- 7 replies
- 2.4k views
-
- 8 replies
- 2k views
-
- 13 replies
- 4.4k views
-
- 0 replies
- 3.2k views
-
- 3 replies
- 1.3k views
-
- 19 replies
- 10.3k views
-
- 1 reply
- 1k views
-
- 1 reply
- 1.1k views
-
- 12 replies
- 7.4k views
-
- 6 replies
- 1.7k views
-
- 17 replies
- 2.2k views
-
- 6 replies
- 1.5k views
-
- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
-
- 5 replies
- 1.8k views
-
- 3 replies
- 2.2k views
-
- 14 replies
- 7.3k views
-
- 4 replies
- 3.6k views
-
- 13 replies
- 2.2k views
-
Topics
-
-
Posts
-
Thanks for the post! I recently joined and was confused how to add images -
Hi there, a bit about me: I'm from the West Coast. New to woodworking and doing some small-ish projects here and there. Learning new things. I'm pretty practically-minded, I very much appreciate art but I figure I can make prettier stuff when I've got more experience. I also care a lot about environmental concerns, in regards to both pollution/sustainability and personal health. I do a lot of repurposing/salvaging materials, I'm a bit of a scavenger. But for anything that'll come into contact with food I'm strict on fresh, untreated material. So yeah, that's me. Hello!
-
Yeah, I thought of that but that would make a really heavy draw front - about 2 1/2" thick in the center. 12/4 lumber? Thinking out loud>>>>>>I could glue 2 or 3 boards together to get the thickness. Joints won't show if I veneer the outside. It would give me a nice reference surface for cuttting the drawer to final width and it would make laying out the dovetails much easier. Then, I could hog (resaw) out the back of the drawer with the band saw and sand it smooth. Yeah, if I do this again I may just take your suggestion. Making the fronts curved- laminated has created all kinds of extra work and challenges because I don't have good reference surfaces. I am at the point of trying to figure out how to do the dovetails on the end of a curved laminated board that I can't put in a vise like I usually do to scribe the dovetail shape on the end of the front. Thanks for the comment. -
A lot of the older pieces would have a flat back, but a bowed front. I feel they did that for stability.. -
Picked up some new chair tools, a small HNT Gordon inside curve spokeshave, Narex butt chisel for splitting the spindle ends for wedges, and some American made drill bits. The holes are really important in these chairs and unfortunately not all bits are actually their stated size. American bits tend to be more accurate for this use case.
-
-
Popular Contributors
