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1 hour ago, K Cooper said:

If I put doors (this will go in a hall and I think one door would be too wide) would it look funny if I made the panels from walnut as I think I have enough cherry on there already. Or even make them solid from walnut without panels. And I was only joking about making the front face frame from maple. 

Make one door, use a piano hinge for it to open up or down.. Up is better.

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17 minutes ago, Chet said:

And remember Ken, cherry and walnut look good together and the cherry is going to look even better down the road then it does right now.

Thanks Chet. I’ve been thinking about what you said on the initial post about limiting the cherry. But as it has evolved, I will keep it consistent and have two doors, walnut framed with cherry panels as you and others have suggested. Final answer :D

21 minutes ago, RichardA said:

Make one door, use a piano hinge for it to open up or down.. Up is better.

Can’t have one door as it would be too wide in a hallway to open.

Thanks to all for your support of my lack of design. Coop

One more question ..... :D 

By the way, I will have the lights on the project as Steve suggested to darken the cherry a tad before putting a finish on it. 

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9 hours ago, Byrdie said:

How's about a door that lifts from the bottom and slides into a groove at the top like a barrister's book case?

I thought about that. In fact, I built them the guild barrister bookcase last year out of the same wood.

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  • 2 weeks later...
11 minutes ago, Isaac said:

I'm building the Jennie Alexander vice described here:

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog-woodworking-blogs/a-parting-gift-from-jennie-alexander/

Looking for suggestions on how to remove the outer jaw. Just drill out that rivet I guess? It has a much smaller head on the opposite side.

51PXK1TdTtL._SL1308_.jpg

I'd use an angle grinder on the rivet. Faster than drilling.  Or modify the design to use a 1/2" pipe clamp, as they seem to provide a bit more pressure.

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6 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

I'd use an angle grinder on the rivet. Faster than drilling.  Or modify the design to use a 1/2" pipe clamp, as they seem to provide a bit more pressure.

Turns out removing the rivet was the easy part. I drilled them and used a cold chisel and pliers to pop out the remains. The problem was, even with the rivet completely bored out, the head doesn't want to give out, even when given some pretty sound whacks with a hammer. So, I wound up hack sawing a slice through the head, which seamed to relieve the tension, allowing the hammer to finish the job. More work than anticipated but we're through!

I already bought the F-Clamps so no plans to switch. One bonus, I bought the clamps a couple months ago, and today when I went to finally open the box, presto, there were three clamps in there! They must have mated while I had them locked away, the devils!

 

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23 minutes ago, Isaac said:

I already bought the F-Clamps so no plans to switch. One bonus, I bought the clamps a couple months ago, and today when I went to finally open the box, presto, there were three clamps in there! They must have mated while I had them locked away, the devils!

Wish this happened in my shop ..... never seem to have enough of those buggers.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah Drew this is going to be something, exposed skin will freeze in 5 minutes or less, the tires on my truck will freeze with a flat spot on the bottom, where I used to work we would leave the patrol vehicles run 24-7, Thursday the HIGH temp is supposed to be minus 17, stay warm and be careful 

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