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    • I suspect that the veneer is simply not flexible enough to form around the tight corners of the recess without splitting. You might try steaming or boiling the veneer to soften it. This would probably require a glue that cures in the presence of moisture, similar to the 'Gorrilla Glue' original. Veneering is not my thing, maybe a better answer will appear shortly.
    • We have a problem in MDF panel natural wood veneering.
      We intend to natural wood veneering cabinet and CNC machined 3d panel (with MDF core). We tested it with 0.3mm back fleeced wood veneer and the following glue:
      http://www.glue4u.com/index.php/data-sheets/tds-a-msds/jowat/436-150-90-tds
      We also use membrane hot press machine without vacuum capability. Unfortunately it didn’t work correctly. The wood veneer didn’t form well, especially in the concave area. You can see the final result of our failed test in the following link:
      http://postimg.org/image/cpt2ifz19
      http://postimg.org/image/urc7g8t25
      Can someone help me? Should I change the type of veneer or glue? Do you have any idea?
      Thank you in advance.  
    • Welcome to the forums Anna!  Pretty cool looking project!  Nice work as well!
    • I’m new to this forum, but have enjoyed looking at some of the other projects people are posting.  Thought I’d share a work in progress…   I’m working on an adjustable height table that will convert from a coffee table height to a desk/worktable height using a pulley system.  There’s a little model of the table below, along with some of the full size legs before shaping.    The model has rubber bands running between the dowels connecting the tops of the legs, but right now the plan is for that to be a pulley system on the full size version.   I’ve got part of the shaping on the legs done.     Still working on the mechanism that is going to hold these together in place of the dowels in the model.  Right not, I’m thinking a metal pipe with a threaded rod on the inside so I can add some wooden nuts to the outside to hold it tight.  I made a few prototypes of the “nuts” with a T-nut embedded in them to provide metal threads.  I don’t have pictures of that yet though.    The table top is a live edge tope inspired by the Scott Lewis cutting board from fine woodworking.  If you haven’t seen the video, it’s amazing…   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lR9_CjQYZj4   I cut the slab below in half, but wanted to disguise the joint between the two pieces, especially because it’s such a figured board.     I made a curved template with a ½ inch gap using the router, and then used each side of the template to cut the curves on the top and bottom of the slabs.  This is the 2 pieces next to each other with the ½ inch gap in between.   Then I filled the gap with a ½ inch ribbon using maple, wenge, and cherry strips and clamped it up. I trimmed the excess with a Japanese saw and a block plane.       I’m planning to add another 2-3 ribbons, and tentatively planned them out with tape. I’ve cut the first one using another MDF template and a ¼ inch router bit with a guide bushing, cut about ¾ inch deep groove.  So far, I’ve got that once glued up and will add the rest of the ribbons in sequence.  You can see some of my templates at the top of the picture below.   Still a work in progress, but it’s been a fun project so far.  
    • Thank you.  I don't consider it talent so much in this case, as the ability to follow printed directions.  I bought them from Rockler but it appears they don't have them anymore.  I found the plans for sale here though. Thanks Steve!  I actually didn't sign it, I finished it before I found this site and knew that was a thing.  I tried to think of something charming to write on it and couldn't come up with anything, so I went without.  This piece is definitely my best work.
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