General Woodworking Talk
9,298 topics in this forum
-
- 1.6k replies
- 515.6k views
-
- 2 replies
- 1.9k views
-
- 12 replies
- 705 views
-
- 13 replies
- 499 views
-
- 7 replies
- 199 views
-
- 5 replies
- 205 views
-
- 90 replies
- 17.1k views
-
- 6 replies
- 210 views
-
- 3 replies
- 281 views
-
- 2 replies
- 215 views
-
- 5 replies
- 210 views
-
- 6 replies
- 216 views
-
- 11 replies
- 476 views
-
- 7 replies
- 482 views
-
- 4 replies
- 253 views
-
- 7 replies
- 260 views
-
- 2 replies
- 256 views
-
- 1 reply
- 295 views
-
- 6 replies
- 374 views
-
- 4 replies
- 399 views
-
- 6 replies
- 396 views
-
- 0 replies
- 131 views
-
- 3 replies
- 342 views
-
- 0 replies
- 224 views
-
- 4 replies
- 332 views
-
Who's Online 1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 79 Guests (See full list)
-
Forum Statistics
31.2k
Total Topics422.3k
Total Posts -
Member Statistics
23,780
Total Members3,644
Most Online
-
Topics
-
-
Posts
-
Yeah, I thought of that but that would make a really heavy draw front - about 2 1/2" thick in the center. 12/4 lumber? Thinking out loud>>>>>>I could glue 2 or 3 boards together to get the thickness. Joints won't show if I veneer the outside. It would give me a nice reference surface for cuttting the drawer to final width and it would make laying out the dovetails much easier. Then, I could hog (resaw) out the back of the drawer with the band saw and sand it smooth. Yeah, if I do this again I may just take your suggestion. Making the fronts curved- laminated has created all kinds of extra work and challenges because I don't have good reference surfaces. I am at the point of trying to figure out how to do the dovetails on the end of a curved laminated board that I can't put in a vise like I usually do to scribe the dovetail shape on the end of the front. Thanks for the comment. -
A lot of the older pieces would have a flat back, but a bowed front. I feel they did that for stability.. -
Picked up some new chair tools, a small HNT Gordon inside curve spokeshave, Narex butt chisel for splitting the spindle ends for wedges, and some American made drill bits. The holes are really important in these chairs and unfortunately not all bits are actually their stated size. American bits tend to be more accurate for this use case. -
Thanks Mark! Actually the spindles are hand shaped with spokeshave's on this chair The difficulty is kind of three fold first the back spindles are steam bent after being shaped, second the spindles and arms are splayed making the drilling accuracy even more important as a slight error at the bottom will cause a much larger change at the top. With the two rails being so close together at the top of the chair you cannot physically bend them like you can where you have a 20" spindle, finally the duck billed corners at the top outside of the chair posts. They appear to be miters but they are not, pulling that off takes some accuracy becuase if the joint isn't perfect it would be obvious its not a miter if that makes sense. FWIW I'm still researching but I believe the spindles on this chair are turned so I will need more lathe practice as well.
-
@pkinneb, with that explanation I am even more impressed. I always assumed the spindle was two pieces. That is difficult to turn (good thing you've got that new lathe ). What makes the birdcage style chair more difficult?
-
-
Popular Contributors
