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so, I scraped down the top, and one way or another it will end up "good enough". But while I think about that, I had to put the profile round the edge ... I'm sure there are router bits that would get all this done in 30 seconds ... but we're doing it the slow way here ... Curved moulding profiles are always slow. The profile needs two rabbets ... the first is 1/8 at the edge of the veneer, and with these thick veneers, after trimming the veneer I was almost there, just a quick pass with the router plane. The second rabbet is about 1/2 deep. First using the knife and a chisel to get a "wall" along the curve. That gives me something for the #71 to register against, so then repeated cuts with this, occasionally stopping to clear out the waste with a chisel until I'm down to the line. Once I have my rabbets, I need to make a bevel where the cove will go ... doing this with a chisel until I'm down to the line in both sides. Then I can cut the cove, first with a carving gouge, and then a scraper. The bead is done the same way, with a gouge and scraper. Then it's all cleaned up with sandpaper. And the top has a profile. It's only sanded to 60 grit at the moment, before I give it a final sanding, I have to decide what I'm doing with the ugly corners of the veneer edge banding. -
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Get what you can out of it like it is before looking for improvement. I expect it will be fine. I don't find that guides make a lot of difference in properly tuned bandsaws. I even used my 24" once with the table and upper guides off of it to get more than stock resaw capacity for one job, and it didn't make much difference even with no guides at all. -
Get a Woodford Y34 for 1 foot bury. They come in a bunch of lengths for different freeze depths. It is pretty simple. You can rent a trencher for half a day, dig the trench and carry the trencher back, then take your time hooking everything up and use your tractor loader to fill it back in. That's what I do when I need to run a waterline. ALWAYS dig your trench first, and then measure for pipe or wire. I never use a plastic female threaded adapter for anything. I use a brass street elbow at the bottom, and a male threaded PVC adapter into that. Use 1" PVC schedule 40 pipe and fittings. The past couple of years I've been able to buy it cheaper from Lowes than from my long time plumbing supplier. Get 20 foot lengths with bell ends if you can. Otherwise you'll need to buy couplings and do double the number of glued joints. Use disposable gloves for handling the primer and glue. The primer is much more liquid than water, and you'll get it all over everything including your hands. If you have an auger for your tractor, I did a hole where the hydrant goes and put a vertical 8" cinder block under the bottom with river rock to fill the rest of the hole up. The bottom of the hydrant has to drain as quickly as possible to be freezeproof. I just buy a couple of bags of river rocks from the landscape department in Lowes or Home Depot. Leave plenty of room around it to swing a couple of long pipe wrenches. You screw the top off to replace any of the parts. I've rebuilt them that were over 50 years old and they work like new. Once I had to screw the top off of one right after install because there was something in the new pipe that wouldn't flush out the faucet. It shot out the open top of the pipe with water though, so easier than having to dig it back up. I'll find some links: https://www.amazon.com/Woodford-Y34-1-HC-Freezeless-Hydrant-Finder/dp/B008N3ITK4/ref=sr_1_2?crid=16GWVK1V5QKIW&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7hPySlqIgyhIbkeK2-GM1S8bX14kNRrRe4rCzK5dCsfEK1xW08MjbupyXwP3EHL9HChq9n0gu_8uyy6wyYED-rAXqKno7P7eIjTXfRA9YqmaSm10CfmnStISQ_sDFfgwF4gxrl8OthPFztf_2hYcv3NOJUY6YOumeIE1NH30jL-TotoJTLggk5Yvs_LpJMkgG4S2zClAW-JMjST2yHcSAO6_zCCNMow7-O1thNH7EOZD82nFi6XNdej-KiMU0vOjKTnrQmc75E7aazuWaH98vmgeMd60zO9puGt5TkUxTyI.lPInvOQ-RCNzaBmofK9vnC94JchXBNitcwqjzLspJxQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=woodford+y34+yard+hydrant&qid=1713912781&sprefix=y34+h%2Caps%2C107&sr=8-2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQY9K0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01986ADEY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This should have everything you need to know about the hydrants. https://www.woodfordmfg.com/Woodford/Yard_Hydrant_Pages/Model-y34.html The Y has a linkage that pulls the rod through the seal straight up. The W doesn't pull it straight up.
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Bad news from my grading guy. He cleared the trees where I’m wanting to put up a building and when he started to cut into the dirt to grade it, he found an underground spring. Tried going a bit further up the hill and it was also bad. He did run a trench for me so I can take power and water up to our garden. I was going to have our well guy run the water and install the hydrant, but now he’s non-responsive. So I’ll just do it now, should be pretty simple. I know @Tom King recommended the Wodford Y, so I’ll pick one up and whatever type of water line is good for direct bury. Throw in a few fittings and a bag of concrete.
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