The Wood
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I have a visual guide that shows the diameter of the screw head and it doesn’t line up with the measurement that I get when I mic mine. I usually buy mine from Lowe’s or HD and that may be the prob. I’ve recently read that some of you buy yours from “ a more reliable source”. In doing so, does this give you a better screw as far as strength and consistency or just a better price? -
@Von, this seems a little extreme but maybe not. Is this from personal experience or research. And I’m sure it also depends on one’s location.
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Rule of thumb I learned was 1/8" of movement across the grain per foot (yes, this is a gross simplification) and not to worry about anything less than a foot. -
I think I figured out my MDF tear-out woes. I grabbed a scrap pieces and made a bunch of relief cuts without being able to reproduce the problem. All cuts nice and clean, no issues at the exits or where they crossed. (Yes, the bit will pull the piece a fair amount if you don't brace it.) At first I was baffled but then realized on my block I had the tear-out problems routing on the edge of the laminated MDF pieces. So I flipped the scrap piece up on its edge and routed that and it showed clear delamination where the bit exited. I glued up another laminated block and will play more tomorrow, but looks it's what I'm seeing is all an issue with routing through the MDF vertically (as the joke goes: don't do that). I hadn't thought of MDF as a lamination, but that seems to be what it is.
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Originally there were #0 through #12. #0 started at .06” diameter and each number went up in increments of .013”. Now you mostly only see #6, 8, 10, 12. I would guess that the sizes and increments were tied to the tools/equipment they had available at the time it was established, but I haven’t ever heard the real reasoning behind it.
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