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Ball bearings come in various sizes. Make sure the bearings you choose can accommodate the weight of your furniture. By opting for high-quality, sealed ball bearings designed for furniture, you can ensure your furniture casters operate smoothly, quietly, and for a long time. -
By Beechwood Chip · Posted
I'm embarrassed - I looked at the space again and the closet won't block the attic access at all. Thanks for the ideas and sorry that they were irrelevant. OK, new plan. Just looked at my space and the closet will not be under the attic access hatch. So, I'm just going to make a standard free-standing piece of furniture. Looking at ads for inspiration, it might be convenient if this could dis-assemble for moving. Especially since my shop is in the basement and this is going on the 3rd floor. https://www.harpgallery.com/shop/item41283.html I could see the base and crown coming off, but how could the cabinet dis-assembled? I haven't had good experienced with IKEA style cam lock fasteners. -
By wtnhighlander · Posted
Is there space enough for the closet to hold the ladder inside, maybe hung inside the door? If the cabinet attaches to the wall, it may be difficult to store a ladder behind it. -
My first house had the attic access in a closet with plywood shelves. I climbed those shelves a number of times with no issue, granted I was a little lighter then. The two concerns that come to mind with a free-standing unit would be making sure it doesn't tip when you climb the ladder and then it doesn't rack with weight on it. I think a properly constructed plywood box will be strong enough. I'd probably add some extra bracing in the top and bottom corners to make sure it doesn't rack. -
By Beechwood Chip · Posted
That's a good point, I wasn't planning to fasten it to the wall. But that would prevent racking both side to side and front to back. Because of the baseboard, there'd be an inch between the back of the closet and the wall. Unless I build it specifically to match the profile of the wall. I guess I could do that. I'll look at ways to design the base that allow the back to be flush to the wall and still look "traditional". Thanks, Tom
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